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CreeBar: 12V proto/ idea

Darell

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Not if you put a little delay in, so it must be turned off more than xxx milliseconds before it goes to the next mode...
True, but there will always be a window available for mode switching. And brownouts offer a whole 'nuther can of worms. Not really a power cycle, but sometimes it counts as one (this is a contributing factor to the problems with the twist power-cycle items that Don mentioned earlier) If you make the timing too tight, it would take trial and error to hit it just right with the switch - defeating the "simple" feature!
 

Darell

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Yeah... I looked for the source before posting... coming up empty, but I have one more place to look. Stand by.

Finally. George found them:
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/level.itml/icOid/8615

When we ordered last time, there were no 12V in stock - and that is still the case. :( Since the Vin of the bFlex can be ~30V, the 18V unit works just dandy. And if you are running a bunch of emitters, all the Vf's added together need to be below the Vin anyway.

These things are narrow so they can be side-by-side on a power strip, and they weight almost nothing. They consume under 1W in standby (my meter only measures to 1W, and these don't measure, now do they get warm). They are the most efficient and accurate warts I've yet used. Of course they are more expensive - and worth it IMO.
 

McGizmo

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Thanks for the link! The 12V were out but the 18V will work fine with the Shark so I ordered a couple. Had to have them shipped to Berkeley because this is a typical on line spot that likes to charge more for shipping to HI than the order costs! :rolleyes:
 

London Lad

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I am confused here (or maybe just stupid)

Don you are saying you would like to have the original AC house supply switched via the original wall light switch and going all the way to the fitting. Then a Xitanium style package, in or at the fitting, to accept AC 110 / 230 input and supply current limited DC output to the leds and also 3 levels via signalling by toggling the mains on and off, right?

Darell, if I am correct here then my concerns in post #55 still apply.

And why do you need a wall wart ?
 

McGizmo

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.....
Don you are saying you would like to have the original AC house supply switched via the original wall light switch and going all the way to the fitting. Then a Xitanium style package, in or at the fitting, to accept AC 110 / 230 input and supply current limited DC output to the leds and also 3 levels via signalling by toggling the mains on and off, right?

Darell, if I am correct here then my concerns in post #55 still apply.

And why do you need a wall wart ?

London Lad,

Yes, that is my suggestion. I believe such a configuration will allow for ease of retrofitting LED replacement fixtures in place of incan fixtures. Since LED's just get better and better as you drop their drive current, there is no better light source for a dimmable application. When I replaced my incan fixtures with custom LED set ups, the one thing I didn't want to do was install LED fixtures that were short on lumens. As a result, I would guess in most cases, I now have more lumens than before and of course still significant savings on power consumption, regardless. Ideally, I would be able to dim these fixtures to a lower level as the typical setting for use and have the option of pumping out more light on those rare ocassions where more light would be desireable.

I would like to have access to modules that could be used in various configurations with eachother depending on the particular application. Those wallwarts Darell linked to would be such a module. The format of the wall wart or its present package is not ideal to be sure but electronically, it provides a great "front end" to take you from mains to low voltage. If the wall wart had input and output terminals like the Xitanium for instance, it would be much more useful. The Shark/Remora is a great boost converter for a string of LED's and it just needs the proper input power source.

At the start, Advance offered a driver that was a constant voltage device instead of constant current. Its output voltage was 24V if I recall correctly. Well that could be used with the Shark/Remora but your string of LED's would have to result in a Vf greater than 24V for the converter to function in boost mode. This probably means that you need a minimum of 8 LED's in the string if you hope to dim the string. If Advance made one that was 12V out then it would be viable with the Shark/Remora and the CreeStrip we have that is a string of 6 LED's.

Going modular allows you different destinations with alternate groupings of your front and back ends if I may use those terms and concepts. In the case of fixed lighting from mains, there is justification for combining the front and back end into one unit but this single unit needs to be UL and other agency approved for it to have any real marketability beyond the DIY that we play with. Like Darell has said, if you have an approved device that takes the "dangerous" mains voltage and gives you a "safe" low voltage output then you can keep under the radar of some of the regulations and standards.

With the experience I have so far messing with these components and LED lights I have seen the need for a buck back end as well as the boost. I assume that the DC side of the xitaniums are a buck converter given the fact they have rated max V out and can handle a string of LED's from 1 to n. Maybe I am wrong?!?! :shrug:

I have been building and designing around a nominal 12 VDC supply (13.6) with my fixed LED lighting program because it lends itself well to transportation applications and there are many nominal 12VDC systems about. 24 VDC makes more sense in terms of wire gage and the ability to carry the current to the remote devices. 24VDC is more the standard for many low voltage systems like irrigation controls, solinoids and what have you. I expect that the lighting industry will be more likely to embrace 24VDC as it comes up to speed with SSL.

As a related aside, Nichia has a new LED in the works that consists of 4 dice in series. They have specs like 21 lumens at [email protected] V which works out to about 100 lumens/watt. This is a wide viewing angle part and targeted at fixed lighting applications I believe.

On CPF, we have been engaged in different drivers as they fit and don't fit with various battery configurations and Vin's. A similar game can and will be played when the field is fixed lighting with arrays of LED's and getting from mains AC voltage down to target DC voltages wanted for conversion to constant current devices. We finally have a good range of viable LED's to work with and more are coming out every day. The hardware, fixtures and optics are pretty straight forward and again, we have good material already to work with. What seems to be lagging and the most critical is the development of the correct black boxes needed to bring life to these ideas!

I have rambled way too much here! In short, a LED light that doesn't have variable output is missing a significant dimension and attribute, IMHO. It can be a great device without volume control but can be so much more with it!!!
 

McGizmo

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David,
I have always been a proponent for variable output but even a stronger proponent for simplicity, ease and dependability. This has been subject of course to my personal limitations and abilities as well as my access to components. With todays high flux LED's, I think one can make a good argument for three levels of output but beyond three, there is significant diminishing returns, IMHO. I am still limiting my portable designs to two levels of output or more recently with the LunaSOl 27 two channels of light selection. These limitations are based on the mechanics and components I have on hand and the method of activating the two levels. I had considered a next generation 3 level light but I realized I found more significance in going with two chanels where both drive level and distribution of beam pattern were altered. At this point, If I were to attempt a three level light, it would be a relatively low flood coupled with a medium and then high spot arrangement. I don't consider such a light as trivial to design or build and it is certainly beyond my scope at present.

As a related aside, I built a Makita mod that initially had a pot involved which gave you a smooth and dynamic range of drive levels to the 7UP LED cluster. It was very nice and the clickie switch turned the light on or off and the pot set the volume. I have since gone to the added trouble of re doing the light with the Shark/Remora and simple three level UI. I prefer selecting among three set levels over taking the time to dial in a level via the pot. I look forward to playing with a SF Titan if I am lucky enough to get my hand on one and I expect the simple "throttle" UI it sports will be very intuitive and easy to use. I also expect that if I used it often, I would try to learn where low, middle and high positions are and choose to dial to them immediately and go about my task. This same perception holds for fixed lighting.

I believe one of the aspects of KISS is that of limiting options or choices to an essential set. This allows for easier and quicker selection of choice or option. In many cases, reliability, dependability and even ease of access can allow for more possible choices than really necessary. In theory, more may be beter but in practice less may be quicker and easier and well cover the needs! :nana:

On one hand one wants choices and options. On the other hand one does not want to be confronted with the need to make unnnecessary decisions. KISS seeks to find a balance between these conditions, IMHO.
 

Mash

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I made this post on the fixed lighting thread, but seems it got buried with unrelated posts, so can I ask for comments, as mentioned there regarding the "quality" of light from LEDs for home application?
 

Darell

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I would try to learn where low, middle and high positions are and choose to dial to them immediately and go about my task. This same perception holds for fixed lighting.

Interestingly enough, in the "portable" UI that I use ***, we have five steps. But what really happens is that you end up using three. You always want the dimmest available, and you always want full throttle available. The secret here is that with multiple choices in the middle, you can initially set it up for med-low, med, or med-high as your in-between level. And that's the level that is used most often on my lights. Man... am I making any sense?

In normal usage in my flashlight UI, there are three easy to access levels. You can turn on to low. You can turn on to the medium that you've previously set, and you can instantly go to high from either of them. If you wish to step through all five levels from off, you may do that as well - but as Don points out - that is rarely needed or done. Three levels is ideal for me. The upper and lower are constrained by physical choices of the battery size and emitter - and it is REALLY nice to be able to configure that middle (the most used!) level for your own desires.

Fixed lighting is a different animal, however, and I do like having a few more levels from which to choose. I like the ability to tune the brightness just right - unlike in my flashlights where I'm only using them for a short while. We all have our prefs!

** edited to sound less snobby. :)
 
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McGizmo

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Mash,
Your post wasn't buried as much as, at least in my case, avoided! :nana: I have gone back and gave a shot at it. Not sure I answered any of your questions or that I reasonably understood some of them.

Darell,

In an ideal situation and dialed in to specific needs of the application, let me lable the three levels as low, normal, and high. In a room that I frequented often and with a consistant nature of activities done in the room, I would find a normal level of illumination and want that as the default that I could access quickly and easily. In addition, I would want a high level for those times I needed better illumination for whatever reason. I would also want a low level that allowed my eyes to rest but sufficient that I wouldn't be straining to "see" or navigate about.

Now in my particular case, I have the low already covered with a separate "moon light" that is on from dusk to dawn. Certainly I would enjoy an additional source of low light from the primary room lighting which could agument the bare minimum "moon light". Because I don't have variable control of the primary room lights, they are presently configured at a level slightly in excess of what I would consider "normal". I want to error on the too much side instead of the too little side. If I had some simple volume control, I could target the normal just where I would consider normal to be knowing that I always had access to more if and when it was needed. Obviously many rooms are already situated for handling the "more" condition with the addition of table lights and floor lights and what have you.

Point source lighting has inherrent restrictions and shortcomings because it is point source lighting. Effective lighting often relies on indirect bounce in addition if not exclusive to direct lighting. Switching to an array of LED's now gives one multiple if not smaller point sources of light. Physical considerations encourage these LED's to be close to eachother but in the sake of illumination, seperating them from each other may well be the ideal. I bet we see some cool long tracks and grids of LED's and likely the sources diffused either directly by film or indirectly via materials like the MC-PET. In flashlights, we have come to appreciate the need for a good and proper optic; photon management. In fixed lighting, photon management is just as important and especially in the case where one just doesn't flood the scene with excess! I consider a similarity to much of the existing incan lighting to a 3 mpg gass guzzler in serious need of new plugs, points, condenser and a carb rebuild! They don't build cars like that anymore but some of our lighting goes back to before the first car! :ohgeez:

It's a whole new ball game and I think it's a fun game to play even when you trip and fall while learning it!
 

Darell

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It's a whole new ball game and I think it's a fun game to play even when you trip and fall while learning it!
Agreed on all accounts. One day (soon?) we'll have commercial LED fixtures and wall dimmers that will make all these challenges seem silly. Toggle, rotary or digital dimmers will (I'm dreaming here) be available for LED drivers at the same cost we pay for them today.

Hell, I just spent three hours today modifying a $20 RiverRock lantern to use a real UI (used to have to cycle through HIGH, blink, off - no other options... now I have five levels, auto sleep, etc. VERY much more handy. Now it can be used as a nightlight in a tent instead of on full throttle all the time. Best part is not having to cycle through blink before turning it off though!) Three hours of labor plus another $40 in parts just because nobody built it right the first time. But like you, I do it because I enjoy it, and because I can. When all this becomes commonplace, we'll find new challenges. I hope, and assume that in my lifetime, I'll be able to dial in my brightness and tint in any area of any room in the house.

Sorry for the stream of consciousness post. I'm a bit "mellow" this evening.
 

Edwood

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I have been using the one proto that is mounted on a Mikita 18V Li-Ion all the time around the house and it's the best work light I have had the opportunity to use. High on the list is an end cap for the CreeBar that will serve as a dock for the Makita battery.


Hi, Don.

Any updates on the Makita Battery end cap for the Cree Bar?

-Ed
 

McGizmo

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Ed,

Wayne and I are looking into getting some prototypes machined and I believe Wayne now has a couple ordered up. There is a reasonable amount of interrelated geometrey at hand in the "docking" of the Makita Battery and I don't know if I captured a viable feel for this which has been translated into a solution or not. We will have a basis for further consideration once we have some parts to work with. The project is still in the works and progress (hopefully) is being made. :shrug:
 

Edwood

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Ed,

Wayne and I are looking into getting some prototypes machined and I believe Wayne now has a couple ordered up. There is a reasonable amount of interrelated geometrey at hand in the "docking" of the Makita Battery and I don't know if I captured a viable feel for this which has been translated into a solution or not. We will have a basis for further consideration once we have some parts to work with. The project is still in the works and progress (hopefully) is being made. :shrug:

Well, no need to stick with Makita, if a Dewalt, Milwalkee, or Black and Decker fits better, then by all means go with that one.

A Dewalt would look nice, with the yellow on black color.

-Ed
 

kenster

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Howdy Don! :wave:

Could I bother you for some rough measurements on the Cree Bar, please? Proto was shorter at 6" I believe so maybe 7" long for the productions version???? :shrug: Planning to build a Cree Bar desk lamp using a little exotic hardwood to give it some........ PIZZAZZ!. :naughty: I made a funky drawing showing what measurements but just the height and width for end caps will do for now so I can check out some exotic hardwood scraps and end pieces at a local lumber store. Most of the pieces are small, bowed, warped, split, gauged and basically kindling but if I search knowing exactly the size and shape of all the pieces I need for a project I usually find enough matching wood in a few different exotic flavors. :grin2:

Thank you,
Ken

CreeBar.jpg
 

McGizmo

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Hi Kenster,

HERE is a PDF that shows the dimensions you are after I believe. Sounds cool!! Please share when you have made it!! :D
 
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