Digital Multimeter Which One?

[Meterman]

Hi Wok,

the AC/DC current probe K1 is made by Chauvin Arnoux, it converts current to voltage (1mV/mA) from 1mA to 4500mA DC and from 1mA to 3000mA AC. The output connectors of it's adapter case are to be plugged into a voltmeter with appropriate ranges.

If you want a tenfold resolution at a tenth of the possible current (0.1 to 450mA) , the model K2 is right for you.

Manufacturer is given in the link, my supplier in Germany would deliver to the USA, but via the manufacturer you might find a supplier sitting directly in the USA.

But here is a warning: Better you sit down before asking for the price! :sigh:

Wulf

 

[crofty]

I suppose 9V Eneloops will arrive eventually

Hope so too, untill then Uniross PP3 LSD`s will have to do.

I never did and do not wish to turn this thread into a war, so that`s all I shall say.

 

[Cheesy]

The content of the box is given at the end of the description

Cheers Wulf.

I had seen that PDF already, that was why I was confused.

It doesn't state which accessories come with each version it just says that they are optional or included depending on version. The only thing I can work out is that the 2 & 3 have NiMH and the 1 has primary cells included.

Which version have you got, -COM?

If so, does the software and leads come with it or are they optional?

I believe the case is optional but possibly not required as the meter folds up to protect the LCD and keypad anyway.


Kev.

 

[eluminator]

I use eneloops in my latest DMM. It's a Mastech MS8268. It uses 3 AAA cells instead of a 9 volt battery.

It came with "no name" alkaline cells. One cell was dead when I got it.

 

[Alan B]

If you want to work with PWM you might want an RMS reading meter.

Another feature that can be handy is clamp-on amps. Some meters have DC clamp on ammeters that are quite useful for measuring currents without breaking the conductors.

It makes some sense to have more than one meter, so one can easily be very inexpensive. You choose whether to start with a low cost or better quality meter.

-- Alan

 

[TorchBoy]

Hope so too, untill then Uniross PP3 LSD`s will have to do.

Hey, nice. 200 mAh and LSD. Sounds almost too good to be true. Pity payback time would be so long - a few years, I'd guess.

 

[Meterman]

Cheers Wulf.

I had seen that PDF already, that was why I was confused.

It doesn't state which accessories come with each version it just says that they are optional or included depending on version. The only thing I can work out is that the 2 & 3 have NiMH and the 1 has primary cells included.

Which version have you got, -COM?

If so, does the software and leads come with it or are they optional?

I believe the case is optional but possibly not required as the meter folds up to protect the LCD and keypad anyway.


Kev.

Hi Kev,

in the meantime I've double and triple checked it, as my buying the 3282 COM has been nearly two years ago and I want to be quite sure about my informations.

The standard 3282 brings manual, test-leads, 3 NiMH batteries and charger.

The 3282 COM in addition is supplemented with the communication kit HX0050, containing the optical RS232 cable + PC software.

(The pouch is always an extra. I don't need it.)

Hope these informations encourage you!


Wulf

 

[wptski]

Hi Wok,

the AC/DC current probe K1 is made by Chauvin Arnoux, it converts current to voltage (1mV/mA) from 1mA to 4500mA DC and from 1mA to 3000mA AC. The output connectors of it's adapter case are to be plugged into a voltmeter with appropriate ranges.

If you want a tenfold resolution at a tenth of the possible current (0.1 to 450mA) , the model K2 is right for you.

Manufacturer is given in the link, my supplier in Germany would deliver to the USA, but via the manufacturer you might find a supplier sitting directly in the USA.

But here is a warning: Better you sit down before asking for the price! :sigh:

Wulf

I have the K110 or what's refered to as the K2 in your link. The max conductor that can be measured is 3/16" or 4.5mm. So, you couldn't hardly clamp around two conductors like AC phase and neutral if you were checking for leakage/unbalance. Working with AC, it has a low crest factor, so it's a problem with distorted signals.

 

[Meterman]

I have the K110 or what's refered to as the K2 in your link. The max conductor that can be measured is 3/16" or 4.5mm. So, you couldn't hardly clamp around two conductors like AC phase and neutral if you were checking for leakage/unbalance. Working with AC, it has a low crest factor, so it's a problem with distorted signals.

I couldn't find anything about a K110, Chauvin Arnoux only shows K1 and K2.

I'm very happy with the small clamping capacity as this minimizes external influence and improves accuracy. Up to now I had not the need to clamp around two conductors. And for measuring only AC current there is a big variety of current clamps available. Perhaps I'll try one of mine for the purpose mentioned by you some day, but for real measuring leakage current etc. I've got a special instrument made by Gossen for testing 230V devices.

For K1 and K2 CA show at their internet page "Measurement range 1mA ... 3A RMS" for the K1 and "0.1 ... 300mA RMS" for the K2 respectively, and "RMS measurements with AC + DC components".

In the manual they write:

"These probes measure . . . DC . . . and on the other hand sinusoidal AC currents . . .

These probes output the current measured in the form of a voltage that is the image of the primary current, in form and amplitude."

This makes me think that the accepted crestfactor is merely a question of the voltmeter you use and not of the current probe.

Wulf

 

[wptski]

I couldn't find anything about a K110, Chauvin Arnoux only shows K1 and K2.

I'm very happy with the small clamping capacity as this minimizes external influence and improves accuracy. Up to now I had not the need to clamp around two conductors. And for measuring only AC current there is a big variety of current clamps available. Perhaps I'll try one of mine for the purpose mentioned by you some day, but for real measuring leakage current etc. I've got a special instrument made by Gossen for testing 230V devices.

For K1 and K2 CA show at their internet page "Measurement range 1mA ... 3A RMS" for the K1 and "0.1 ... 300mA RMS" for the K2 respectively, and "RMS measurements with AC + DC components".

In the manual they write:

"These probes measure . . . DC . . . and on the other hand sinusoidal AC currents . . .

These probes output the current measured in the form of a voltage that is the image of the primary current, in form and amplitude."

This makes me think that the accepted crestfactor is merely a question of the voltmeter you use and not of the current probe.

Wulf

Look here: http://www.tequipment.net/AEMCDCACMicroprobes.html

I was getting a OL LED far below the AC max and emailed them and the answer given was a lower limit for a higher crest factor. Not sure about the CF being deterimed by the meter but I know RMS or non-RMS is by the meter. That's the answer I got from them!

 

[Ray1968]

I just bought a Fluke 179 off of eBay. It was new in the box and never used with a 'buy now' price of $100. But I have a bad feeling about this. The seller only has a rating of 16, and only one transaction between now and 2006. And in one of his older deals he aparantly never shipped the item.

Guess I'll have to kick myself in the back-side if I get ganked.

 

[Meterman]

Look here: http://www.tequipment.net/AEMCDCACMicroprobes.html

I was getting a OL LED far below the AC max and emailed them and the answer given was a lower limit for a higher crest factor. Not sure about the CF being deterimed by the meter but I know RMS or non-RMS is by the meter. That's the answer I got from them!

Interesting URL. So Chauvin Arnoux seem to sell their equipment in the USA branded AEMC? The logo is that of CA. There I read "Chauvin Arnoux®, Inc. d.b.a. AEMC® Instruments", but I can't find out what "Inc. d.b.a." means.

The OL LED of course can be set to on only by the K110, as the voltmeter doesn't give any feedback. I think the answer of tequipment is quite a bit lazy, there should have been more information from a qualified person. If this strange OL effect happens again, it might be interesting to see that current at an oscilloscope.

Wulf

 

[Ray1968]

d.b.a. = doing business as

 

[Meterman]

Thank you, Ray1968, now that's clear!

Wish you much luck in getting your Fluke! I myself own some very different instruments from them.

Wulf

 

[BentHeadTX]

I have used fluke, extech and jensen meters with no problems
My favorite is the Fluke 179 true RMS and Extech automatic oscilliscope/meter thing. Even if you get a basic meter, the fluke lead sets make it much easier to use. Good luck!

 

[crofty]

OP followup: My cheap meter is going wonky, sometimes it shows the error symbol when you turn it on, it also reads about 0.20v higher than it should. Turning it off and on a few times turns it back to normal operation. Tried a new battery but it acts the same, I`ve lost confidence in cheap meters now.

So I`m going to save up for a fluke, not sure which one to go for though. The 179 looks nice and can measure temperature, cheapest I`ve found it for is around £200. Is their a cheaper Fluke that is ideal for measuring battery voltages and has temperature sensing?

 

[Alan B]

The Extech's are excellent. I use one frequently. Mine is about $50 and came with the temperature probe. They have lots of models and price points to choose from.

I was about to buy a Fluke 179 when I discovered it has AC RMS, so it disregards the DC component. So it won't read PWM accurately which is what is needed for flashlights.

I bought instead a Fluke 189. These are recently discontinued but quite available.

 

[Mr Happy]

There is a mid-way point between cheap meters and really expensive meters. I share your experience that some of the really cheap stuff like the $2.99 meters I have bought from Harbor Freight are just too cheap and sometimes misbehave after a bit of use. However, I have one of these more expensive Innova meters (model 3320) found in Wal-Mart, and the quality of construction is in a different league. I don't know if is available anywhere in the UK, but I would certainly recommend it.

 

[Lite_me]

This is what I use. Same model. I've recommended it here in the past and no one said anything, good or bad. I like mine.

 

[TakeTheActive]

There's a BIG Difference Between INEXPENSIVE and CHEAP!

OP followup: My cheap meter is going wonky... ...I`ve lost confidence in cheap meters now.

So I`m going to save up for a fluke... ...cheapest I`ve found it for is around £200...

Which meter did you eventually buy? There's a BIG difference between INEXPENSIVE and CHEAP!

Around 25 years ago, I bought a Hitachi VR-3550 for ~$60 at a computer meet. The accuracy is:

• VDC: ±0.5%
• VAC ±1.0%
• ADC ±1.0% (±2.0% on 10A)
• AAC ±1.5% (±3.0% on 10A)

Still works just fine for my needs.

A few years ago, I bought a Sears Craftsman 82015 for ~$10 *ON SALE* for something to carry around, use outside, etc... since it included a "Shock-Absorbing Holster". The accuracy is:

• VDC: ±1.0%
• VAC ±1.2%
• ADC ±1.2%

Again, it does the job and never gave me any trouble.

IMHO, $290.78 is a *LOT* of money to spend on something that you didn't even know how to use on 08-23-2008 @ 07:35 AM. I bet that *FREE* meter from Cheesy is still running fine.

Get some recommendations for an INEXPENSIVE meter that you can buy locally in a B&M for <£20.63 ($30). And don't over-analyze!

£  1.00 = $  1.4539
£  6.88 = $ 10.00
£ 41.27 = $ 60.00
£200.00 = $290.78