dim light with no hot spot? (for reading)

Flying Turtle

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Photon Pro was also suggested but it's $79 and doesn't even have a low mode.

While I don't think the Proton Pro would be a good reading light, some of your information isn't quite right. It can be found for around $50. CFRlights even has it for $45.95. And, it definitely has a very low setting, in white or red. Because of the hot spot, I don't think it would do a good job.

Geoff
 

adrianmariano

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I have the K-106 and the Zebralight H501w.

The Akoray is substantially larger which makes it hard to position/clip, and even with a diffuser the beam wouldn't be as good as the zebralight for reading (ZL being warmer and, well, just a beautiful flood). The ZL also has accessories (clip- which is on a sleeve allowing the body to rotate, and headband) which give more positioning options.

I'm planning to mount the light somehow on the end of a length of http://www.loc-line.com which will give plenty of positioning options and flexibility. It's actually less clear to me how this might work for the Zebralight, with it's 90 degree angled beam, than for a normal light.

Regarding Proton Pro, I'll admit that I didn't hunt around for the best price. First google hit gave me a light with red low and white high and a $79 price tag. (No option for low white was evident.)

Doesn't the fenix E01 have a really bluish purple beam?

Does the Princeton Tec Attitude have a oval shaped (non-circular) cross section? Wondering how this might affect mounting options.

From what I see looking at the threads on the forum the aspheric lens mod has the effect of more tightly focussing the beam. (It appears that it's eliminating the spill beam so you have only hot spot.) This doesn't seem desirable for reading. Am I confused?
 

RGB_LED

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If you're going to spring for a Photo Pro at that price, IMHO, the Zebralight H50 or H501 - especially the warm versions - would make more sense since they can be purchased for about $65 (including shipping). I personally just use the headband with my H50 on Med mode for reading. But the wide, even beam with no hotspot is perfect for reading. :thumbsup:
 
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AusKipper

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I've seen the Zebralight recommended for reading, and notice that it's described as having a beam with no hot spot. I'd prefer something less expensive. It also seems like the right angle design of the Zebralight might make mounting appropriately more difficult.

I'm not sure on your exact situation, but if its possible for you to do a couple of hours over time to get the extra cash for the Zebra (h501 would be my choice) then you wont regret it i dont think.

Realistically though, just about any cheap no brand LED headlight would be bright enough for reading and none really have a "hotspot". I brought a Winchester headlight as a set of 3 lights, while the other 2 lights where complete junk, the whole set was 1/5 the price of my Zebralight and the headlight was actually decent.

The pack was called: Winchester LED Combo pack. Can be found on Amazon for about $25 (yikes, its gone way up, used to be found on Amazon for about $15...)

But if you can save for the Zebralight.. go for it :)

On Fenix's if you can find an old model L0D it would be cheaper than the Zebralight and just as good if you can find a good way to mount it.

**edit**
Looks like for whatever reason the LD01 is cheaper than the L0D, so yeah, ignore the last line...
 
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juplin

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From what I see looking at the threads on the forum the aspheric lens mod has the effect of more tightly focussing the beam. (It appears that it's eliminating the spill beam so you have only hot spot.) This doesn't seem desirable for reading. Am I confused?
The aspheric lens in off-focus setup, which was done in my mod, will provide output beam angle of around 90 degree along with uniform beam pattern, that is, wide pure flood without tight hotspot.

Alternatively, the aspheric lens in its in-focus setup will provide output beam angle of around 5 degree along with the image of the LED die (i.e. the beam pattern is the image of the die itself). :devil:
 

jupello

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Now that I think of it, a Led Lenser P2 or P4 models could be pretty good for this. They should be pretty cheap, little over 10 lumens, give wide smooth beam and have clicky switches. No modifications or hassle needed :D
They use nichia leds too, so that might be a slight downer if you are really picky about the color.
 
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adrianmariano

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Ok. I succumbed. I went ahead and ordered the Zebralight. Now I just have to figure out how to mount it on the loc-line.
 

adrianmariano

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ziptie it :)

Hmmm. Might be worth a try, actually. I was thinking of some sort of mounting ring that I could screw down. (Like there seem to be a lot of mounts out there to attach your flashlight to a gun.)

and good for you. i think you will end up using it in other things too after you play with it for a while.
Well, if things go according to plan it'll be mounted in a fixed location, so there won't be a lot of other use going on.

And yes, I went for the warm tint.
 

kiwicrunch

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Ok. I succumbed. I went ahead and ordered the Zebralight. Now I just have to figure out how to mount it on the loc-line.

If it's possible to epoxy a bit of metal to the mounting end of one of these, you should be able to use a rare-earth magnet between that and the Zebralight (the magnet can stick to both the ZL base and clip- allowing the light to shine parallel or perpendicular to the arm).

If you run a search on these forums, there are a few threads on using magnets on Zebralights.
 

davidt1

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The H501 can be used in many positions hand free in addition to the headband. Here are some mounting positions I have used it in.

Overhead light (with a magnetic disc)
IMG_2718.jpg


Pocket light
IMG_2724.jpg


Jeans/belt light
IMG_2738.jpg


shirt (no pocket) light
IMG_2716.jpg


Oh, and the plain set-it-on-a-table position.
IMG_2752.jpg
 
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juplin

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Back to the topic, reading light implemented by modded aspheric lens version of LF2XT mounted on the mini tripod with clip :naughty:
Tripod_Reading_Light_S.jpg


Uniform circular beam illuminates on the whole page of the book only without disturbing others.
Reading_S.jpg


Close-up of the book reading by illumination of the aspheric LF2XT :naughty:
Reading_Closeup_S.jpg
 

adrianmariano

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If it's possible to epoxy a bit of metal to the mounting end of one of these, you should be able to use a rare-earth magnet between that and the Zebralight (the magnet can stick to both the ZL base and clip- allowing the light to shine parallel or perpendicular to the arm).

If you run a search on these forums, there are a few threads on using magnets on Zebralights.

When you say I could epoxy metal to the mounting end do you mean to my loc-line? The loc line can terminate in a pipe fitting that I could (I assume) screw an iron pipe segment to. Then I could stick on a magnet.

But when I went to look around in the forums, I got the impression that people are gluing the magnet to the Zebralight, or attaching it some other way. From what I could tell from reading the forum, people are gluing a Nd magnet to the bottom of the light and then sticking it to metal surfaces. (Where's the switch located?)

I suppose I need to wait (3 weeks?) to learn the options. The loc-line is arriving today (so I haven't seen it in person yet), but it provides two attachment methods. Above mentioned 3/8" male pipe threads or a bolt mount type attachment where I could bolt something to the end of the line. It might be possible to zip-tie or velcro a light to the line. I was thinking I'd start a new thread about mounting once I actually saw the stuff.

Regarding this aspheric mod, is there a thread that talks about how the mod works optically to spread the beam out? I imagined a lens with a focal length very short. Then you'd get a beam whose angle is the arctan of the lens radius divided by the focal length. But it seems like this beam would still have the hot spot if I used a normal lens. It would just be more spread out. So where's the magic? Note that saying that the lens has a certain thickness and diameter doesn't actually characterize the lens. A lens could have those dimensions and be spherical rather than aspheric. And since an aspheric lens is any lens that's not spherical, that leaves a lot of room for options about the exact nature of the lens.
 

NonSenCe

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you dont know yet where the switch is?

so you havent looked any of the threads or reviews of the zebralights yet? (alot of pictures of it in cpf)

or maybe check the videos at youtube.com of it? so you see how it works "live" :).

but on h501 the switch is in the top. on h50 which is the older model its a twisty light.

magnet, yeah gluing it or using double sided tape on bottom. (im looking for such tape to add into mine.. i know i have some somewhere ..just havent found it yet)
 

kiwicrunch

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When you say I could epoxy metal to the mounting end do you mean to my loc-line? The loc line can terminate in a pipe fitting that I could (I assume) screw an iron pipe segment to. Then I could stick on a magnet.

But when I went to look around in the forums, I got the impression that people are gluing the magnet to the Zebralight, or attaching it some other way. From what I could tell from reading the forum, people are gluing a Nd magnet to the bottom of the light and then sticking it to metal surfaces. (Where's the switch located?)

Yes, I do mean to the loc-line. I'm not familiar with the loc-line so I'm just assuming this is possible, but it does sound like it.

As the previous poster mentioned, the switch is on top. I personally prefer not to attach my magnet to the Zebralight as it's easy to place or remove anyway. I also don't want it inadvertently attracting metal objects like keys, etc. This also gives me the flexibility of having the magnet at the base or against the clip.
 

adrianmariano

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So a magnet sticks to the base or the clip of the zebralight? If it sticks, why are people using tape or glue to attach the magnet? Evidently I have to wait for mine to turn up; then everything will become clear.
 

kiwicrunch

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Yes, a magnet sticks to both the base (probably attracted to the battery more than the thin wall) as well as the clip.
 

NonSenCe

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its aluminum.. so no it wont stick as is.. so something like glue or tape or bubble gum is needed :)

because of the thin al walls its possible for magnet slightly "lock on" to the metal inside.. on the tailcap there is a spring that the magnet sticks.. very feebly on my magnets.

also on sidewall it "senses" the metal casing of the battery and tries to hang on it. my magnets are too weak to really hold the light thru the walls. so i need superglue or something like that to ensure good hold of the light.

actually "new" idea just came to me: maybe glue small strip of velcro on bottom of the light, then the other piece of velcro on the magnet..or the stand you thing you use it from? that way the magnet is easily removable.
 

adrianmariano

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What advantage do you see in the use of velcro? I guess a piece of velcro doesn't attract keys and such if you have to leave it attached.
 

NonSenCe

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basically just that its easy to remove the magnet.

it might become annoying to some that the keys and other metalstuff clicking into it while in the pocket.

i think i could live with permanent magnet. (and i can manage without one too..)

im just tossing ideas for you and others interested. :)

-and velcro (with the magnet removed) might soften the sound when you set on glass table or tile, thud instead of clank :)

hmm.. also.. i think if i use the velcro on the attaching the light. i could use the grippy side on the flashlight and fuzzy on the magnet.. grippy stuff could be good enough to attach it on your fuzzy clothes too or something similar :) but basically just the option of removing the magnet easily if you know you wont need it that moment.
 
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