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does the sandwich shoppe still esinks????
- Thread starter oldeng95
- Start date
StoneDog
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just to be sure, e-sinks are designed for use with side emitters* in a slightly bored-out e-series head, right?
* - not that high dome's can't be used, they just need some AA as filler to raise the emitter to the proper focal point.
Jon
* - not that high dome's can't be used, they just need some AA as filler to raise the emitter to the proper focal point.
Jon
Rothrandir
Flashaholic
it's generally not a good idea to mount a luxeon onto a block of arctic alumina... (and by that, i mean unless you're driving it at around 150ma or less)
i'm not sure of the best way to use an esink in an eseries head, but for those with lathes, the esink can be modified to go in backwards, which provides the right focal placement for a hd luxeon.
i'm not sure of the best way to use an esink in an eseries head, but for those with lathes, the esink can be modified to go in backwards, which provides the right focal placement for a hd luxeon.
StoneDog
Flashlight Enthusiast
I meant AA Adhesive, does that make a difference?
Rothrandir
Flashaholic
aa is only meant to fill in the microscopic gaps between joints. like in between the led slug and heatsink, or in between a heatsink and flashlight body.
using a disc of aa like what you're talking about would offer very little thermal transfer, compared to mounting the emitter directly onto the heatsink.
the smaller the aa joint the better, so if you had a joint thick enough to fill the hole in the esink, it would transfer heat horribly.
i can't remember the numbers (someone might try googling it..?), but if you do look it up, you'll find that the thermal transfer of a solid piece of aluminum is tens of times (hundreds?) better than a thin joint with arctic alumina, so you can only imagine how horrible a disc of the stuff would be.
using a disc of aa like what you're talking about would offer very little thermal transfer, compared to mounting the emitter directly onto the heatsink.
the smaller the aa joint the better, so if you had a joint thick enough to fill the hole in the esink, it would transfer heat horribly.
i can't remember the numbers (someone might try googling it..?), but if you do look it up, you'll find that the thermal transfer of a solid piece of aluminum is tens of times (hundreds?) better than a thin joint with arctic alumina, so you can only imagine how horrible a disc of the stuff would be.
The place i ordered them, adding the additional shelf so they could be flipped over ended up more than doubling the cost. I nuked that idea for now. They will be more or less the same as before. Except, this time I believe I fixed the holes so they go all the way through.
balrog
Enlightened
For those of us that don't know what they looked like before, including me, does this mean that they will or won't be counter-bored? I checked your website and the photos show two different types. One that is raw aluminium that is not counter-bored and another type that is anodised with the counter-boring.
I looked into making a dual purpose esink, but, that tripled the cost of the part.
I opted out and fixed the previous drawing and it is current recessed for use with a side emitter. It's possible that you might be able to find a thin aluminum or copper washer to fill the recess with use with a std HD.
I opted out and fixed the previous drawing and it is current recessed for use with a side emitter. It's possible that you might be able to find a thin aluminum or copper washer to fill the recess with use with a std HD.
