Dorcy 1AAA vs. ArcAAA vs. Ultra-G

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UnknownVT

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 27, 2002
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Dorcy_Arc_Ultra2_S.jpg

left to right ArcAAA, Dorcy 1AAA, CMG Ultra-G

Dorcy 1AAA main body is approx same diameter as ArcAAA, head is approx same diameter as Ultra-G, length is actually longer than Ultra-G

Heads:
Dorcy_Arc_Ultra_heads_S.jpg

left to right: ArcAAA, Dorcy 1AAA, CMG Ultra-G

ArcAAA has satin/spun bare alumimum "reflector".
Dorcy 1AAA has real polished/chrome reflector and a lens (I think there is a part focussing lens)
Ultra-G is anodized dark green.

Beam shots lights about 9" away from letter sized paper (+ on paper is just for digicam to focus on):
Dorcy 1AAA and ArcAAA -
Dorcy_ArcAAA.jpg


Dorcy 1AAA and Ultra-G
Dorcy_UltraG.jpg


The overall circle of light/side spill of the Dorcy 1AAA is about the same size as the Ultra-G - the ArcAAA is about 2/3 this.

The ArcAAA is bluer than the Dorcy 1AAA, which in turn is only just perceptibly bluer than the Ultra-G.

The Dorcy 1AAA seems brighter than either the Ultra-G or the ArcAAA (which are about the same as each other).

The central hot spot of the Dorcy 1AAA is larger than either the Ultra-G or ArcAAA - but it is less even with a secondary bright ring/halo.

Overall I am pretty impressed with this $6 LED light - although I still prefer the Ultra-G for its use of AA battery and being about as compact for a single AA flashlight - whereas the Dorcy 1AAA is quite a bit larger than a single AAA light needs be - but it works well and is actually more comfortable in use than the ArcAAA.

I particularly like the push-on tail switch.

Relevant post -

ArcAAA vs. Ultra-G

[edit: 2/19/2004 - changed photo hosting - since imagestation is no longer hotlinking photos reliably]
 
Thank you. I now know that the Arc AAA is much smaller than the Dorcy AAA. The Ultra-G looks like a very nice light (primarily because it uses the ubiquitious AA battery)
 
[ QUOTE ]
PhotonBoy said:
If you like Dorcy's 1LED 1AAA, you'll *love* their 3LED 1AA!

[/ QUOTE ]

And you'll love it even more once it's been "tweaked"!
 
Thing is, i need the light by December 13, come hell or high water. Ordering the Infinity seems a better idea than waiting for the 1AA to show up at wallyworld.
 
:rubs hands in anticipatory glee:
MR_Bulk: I bet you'd make a mint on "Dorcy Tweak" mods. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

<edit>: How 'bout: Bulky Dorcy.... ..... .... hmmmm?

A light like that would fill the void between the Arc AAA and the Arc LS with the bonus that it would be cheaper to feed. (try C$10 for a 123 lithium)

Mark: Buy both. CMG is waterproof, long battery life. Dorcy is brighter, water-resistant only, shorter battery life... big plus: tactical-style tail switch. Most of the time, you'd prefer the Dorcy.
 
One of Arc co.`s original plans called for a 3 LED AA light but for reasons I can`t remember never came to be. Where can I get one of these Dorcy 3 AA lights?
 
[ QUOTE ]
PhotonBoy said:
If you like Dorcy's 1LED 1AAA, you'll *love* their 3LED 1AA!

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes....BUT.....

failing some unforseen circumstance, I will probably buy a Dorcy 3LED 1AA -
BUT if I may borrow MR Bulk's photo -
dorcy1aa1.jpg


The Dorcy 3LED 1AA is noticably larger than either the Ultra or (obviously) the Dorcy 1AAA - by both the length and (max) diameter.

I find the Ultra a comfortable in-pants pocket carry and wouldn't want anything else substantially bigger.
The Dorcy 1AAA despite being a shade longer is still comfortable - strangely enough also because of its larger head which is the same diameter as the Ultra.

So a Dorcy 3LED 1AA will be attractive because of its use of a single AA cell and probably being brighter due to the use of 3LEDs -
but because of its bulk it's UNlikely to be carried in (pants) pocket and more likely to be "strategically" placed, like in the car or stashed by the door.
 
I agree w/ the issues regarding the Dorcy AA light - it's bulk would relegate it to either pack carry, or for emergency lighting in a car/etc... (in fact, as soon as I find one, It's going to be part of the car kit - already have a Dorcy Spyder in there, the AA/3 LED would compliment it nicely, especially w/ a Lithium AA installed.
 
I don't know if putting a lithium in a Dorcy 3-LED 1-AA flashlight is a good idea or not.
I got 210mA from an alkaline AA, and 390mA from a lithium AA. Wait - I just checked my website, and it's supposed to draw 370mA from an alkaline. A new alkaline. So I guess it's OK after all. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I don't think that a 20mA increase is gonna hurt anything. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
So go ahead and shove a lithium AA in there and throw it in your car kit. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
nah.. when i tried the fresh AAA in the Dorcy it was brighter but the Arc AAA was brighter within 10 minutes..

i think the Dorcy's just a dud.

actually, damn i dunno where my mind has been, but i think i might've got a lil scratch-happy when i was trying to fix the outside of the beam on the LED.. *LOL*

m'bad!
 
[ QUOTE ]
this_is_nascar said:
That Dorcy 1xAAA beam is terrible. Now I can understand why they cost what they do.


[/ QUOTE ]

I dunno. While I can appreciate a beam pattern that looks flawless on a white wall as much as the next Flashoholic, I've found that some beams that look pretty funky on a white wall are quite satisfactory in real world application. I cannot, however, include the Mag products among these. . I personally find this Dorcy to be an excellant value at $6.
 
I did my own beam shots with my ultra g, a cpf ARC AAA,and the dorcy 1AAA and the dorcy has the brightest beam of the three. The beam shape for real world situations rarely requires a perfectly circular beam on a white wall.We aren't talking about $100 lights here.The Dorcy is a great light for $5.94,considering the cost of the others it was compared to.
 
To each their own. Beam quality is more important than brightness to me. If/When I want brightness, I can pull out one of my other lights. Many times, I hear folks defending that beam quality on a wall doesn't matter in real life usage. Sure it does. With the hundreds of lights I've handled, I've never seen any of them mysteriously change their beam pattern to something different when shined on someothing other than a wall. More times that not, if it looks like crap on a flat surface like a wall, it going to look like crap (maybe not to the same extent) in real word usage. Anyway, I'm not trying to start an aurgument, just voiceing my opinion. I'm glad you're happy with the light.
 
i like nice beams too.

Nascar, you can fix the beam in about 15 minutes by removing the reflector and sanding off the chrome paint. makes the beam much like the arc or cmg.

i carry one that i modified like this in my labcoat, so if i lose it, im only out $6.

forgot to add: i need a clean beam because i use the light to check epidural puncture sites, and cant have strange swirls/shadows. a blue-ish color is fine.

Bob
 
I think beam quality and brightness depends to a geat degree on the luck of the draw. One of my two Dorcy AAAs is almost perfect: white, good pattern, brighter than my ARC AAA. The other Dorcy is more blue, slightly distorted beam, and not quite as bright.

Actually, one of my white Photon IIs beats them all in all respects, even with a much used battery -- while my other Photon IIs don't. This specific Photon II even beats my two Infinity Ultras: brightness, whiteness, pattern, and throw.

Therefore, in my opinion, any particular comparison of different brands of lights cannot be accurate when only one or two samples are involved. The variance between individual lights, and individual LEDs of a particlar brand is so great as to make any comparison suspect when the results are anywhere near close.

I'm beginning to appreciate the strategy of many fellow CPFers: buy a number of the same lights, pick the best of the lot, and sell the rest.
 
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