Driving 4 Crees at 1A - best way to do this?

KevinL

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OK, title's overly simplistic.

I have a 3C Mag running 3x Lux3s. This light was put together with the assistance of a custom heatsink, the success of which went on to spawn a whole generation of multi-LED mods and a whole new array of heatsinks designed for these mods. The amazing thing is that when I first built it, there were only a couple of commercial lights/drop-ins with 3 or more LEDs... it was nearly impossible to find a heatsink suitable for this mod! (I got one customized to my specs - after that then came the flood of intrepid machinists selling the sinks).

History lesson aside, I'm now thinking of giving it a facelift in 2008. The heatsink is the same as it's always been, flat slab of aluminium. I'm gonna stick four Crees onto it. The old light has been a direct drive setup on 3 NiMH, and likely the new one will be too.....except that I'm exploring regulated options.

What's the best way to drive 4 Crees at 1A each? I've thought of a number of solutions but none seem to produce the results I want....

1. Direct drive the way it's always been. Yes, its's the simplest design, it will get me (roughly) there, but the disadvantage is that I have no assurance the current will be what I hope it will be. It's very hit and miss if I'm shooting for a 1A drive current. I'm not too worried about overdriving, I AM very worried about underdriving. What's the fun in an underpowered LED? More lumens, bring it on!!

2. Taskled D2DIM: direct drive, 3 NiMH should feed the LEDs enough current for them to do the job. D2DIM works to dim it. Again same disadvantage as direct drive - can't be sure of the current going to the LEDs. In addition, the D2DIM has a limit of 3.4A, and I want 4A combined total to the LEDs.

3. AMC7135 based drivers. Glorified resistors as they have been called, and they don't boost current. Plus specs and documentation are next to nonexistent. You pay for what you get, I suppose. If only everybody documented like Taskled. I can't even figure out the output voltage from the sketchy info available on them.

4. Dual Fatman drivers. I love these, except I can't find 50K log pots. The electronic shops in my area look at me as if I'm nuts. (ok, probably language barrier involved, too). And I need to drill my Mag. I can probably get it drilled no problem, but can you control two Fatman drivers from one pot? Plus they get expensive.

I'm thinking of wiring each driver to 2 LEDs in series. This way, each only needs to boost 3.6V nominal to ~7V output, which should be within the Fatman's capabilities.

Cons.. they're expensive, I'm looking at $50 in drivers ALONE.





soooo...... given the limited selection of choices, should I just slam 3 high-current SubCs into the light and let the chips fall where they may?
 
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You could use c-sized Li-Ions

then a single shark, Fatman or MaxFlex would work
 
Why Sub-C? I use the titanium 5,000mah ones and they work fine. Quad @ 1 amp should give you ~1hr 15mins runtime. I say get the crees, test them with some resistance and your batts, and see what current it's pulling. Then adjust from there, more or less resistance. 3xNiMH is pretty close to the nominal VF of LEDs so it should need too much resistance. The other options with drivers require series wiring and then higher voltage cells, such as multi battery holders in D mags, or Li-ions. I think you could fit 2 protected 18650's in the 3C mag with a spacer though.
 
Well, these buck drivers are around 1 amp output with a 7.8v input so you could use 2 Li-ion batteries to drive 4 Crees at around 1 amp. 1 driver for each LED?
 
2x 500mA boost drivers hooked up in parallel (for a total of 1A) to power 2 LEDs in series would probably work. (Do this again for the other 2 LEDs)
 
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i need a driver too :-(

dimm to dimm, direct drive , blow up at 4 amps , i was thinking how i could put a big fat mostfet in it, so it will do some juice.
(MostFets have more than mosfets :)

AMC7135, need more input voltage than output, short range of voltages.

multiple drivers -- HOW do you control with one switch? having 3-4 UIs work in unison, if they got out of sync nightmare.

Pot drivers, how to control with one pot, Duel ganged pots are usually reverse logrythmatic from eachother (stereo balance control) besides how is a ganged pot going to fit in a mag. oh wait duh, just wire them in reverse. ok they still wont fit well :)

MaxFLEX - out of stock, should be able to FLEX a bit, and has enough juice for series led.

i got 1 li-ion and 3 crees, and want Mondo juice like 1.2-1.5

also i want CONTROL, i would like to have UI , even a PWM one, dont want no KNOB sticking up, although pots are Cool.

where is the mighty current control curcuit that will flex to various voltages? Current control is the GOD of drivers right? umm so where is one for the applications?
 
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http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
Hmm, interesting and affordable. They are only 800mA though..

not only that , but they FALL out of regulation when my li-ion drops in voltage a bit, like somewhere just below 4V.
i stuffed one in a Jetbeam so i could use li-ion, its in Direct drive Most of the time. :-(
it would be great with 4+ volts like 2x li-ion or 4 ni-mhys or something.
 
3. AMC7135 based drivers. Glorified resistors as they have been called, and they don't boost current. Plus specs and documentation are next to nonexistent. You pay for what you get, I suppose. If only everybody documented like Taskled. I can't even figure out the output voltage from the sketchy info available on them.
They're linear current regulators, so you won't be able to work out the output voltage without knowing the operating voltage of your device at the desired current. But it'll be at least 0.12V less that the input voltage, as the data sheet clearly states.

The limited input voltage range isn't a problem if you've got lots of volts to play with since you can easily add more diodes to the board regulation input, and drop about 0.6V for each diode you add. (Does that need more explanation?) But it's probably not what you want if you want to use three cells at 4 amps.
 
Maxflex is aparentaly back in stock. :)
but i dont think i have the input voltage for it, ONLY because at my input voltage the current will be to high. darn its always the AMPS that getcha.
about 2.2amps max is what he wants on the input
for efficency 8nimhys or 3-4 li-ions or at least some 6volts.

i e-mailed george to get more info, not that i cant Read NO all over the specs :), but mabey he has some ideas.
 
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i e-mailed george to get more info, not that i cant Read NO all over the specs :), but mabey he has some ideas.

george said NO, that i need more voltage like 2 li-ion, figures.
and now i am replying to myself too, man i need sleep :)
Thanks george for quickly replying.
 

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