Duracell jackpot!!

[loonybin]

I just discovered a stash of about 100 medical grade Duracell CR123a batteries that will be all mine on Monday! The cost is just right, too. They're free. :twothumbs

It will cost me some elbow grease to get them out of the plastic housing they're in, though.

 

[abvidledUK]

I just discovered a stash of about 100 medical grade Duracell CR123a batteries that will be all mine on Monday! The cost is just right, too. They're free. :twothumbs

It will cost me some elbow grease to get them out of the plastic housing they're in, though.

Then you can show us the pics of the explosion(s) !!

Assuming you have any fingers left to operate your camera.

See other threads on why this may not be advisable...

 

[loonybin]

would you happen to have a link to these threads?

 

[greg_in_canada]

I think he's talking about getting the cells out of some sort of plastic holder, not removing the plastic sleeve.

Greg

Then you can show us the pics of the explosion(s) !!

Assuming you have any fingers left to operate your camera.

See other threads on why this may not be advisable...

 

[loonybin]

I think he's talking about getting the cells out of some sort of plastic holder, not removing the plastic sleeve.

Greg

This is what I'm referring to:

I took an exacto blade and scored the plastic (it's pretty thick, so I didn't go through it), then used some needlenosed pliers to peel it back. The batteries were attached by a very thin piece of metal to connect them in series, but it peeled off very easily. I made sure not to touch the positive terminal and the side of the battery to avoid a short. This is what's inside:

 

[johnny13oi]

Wouldn't you need to apply a wrapper of some sort if the outer casing is the negative terminal?

 

[TigerhawkT3]

Wouldn't you need to apply a wrapper of some sort if the outer casing is the negative terminal?

Yep. In fact, that's how packs are made: solder the bare cells, then shrink some plastic around it. The OP will probably want to shrink them separately, though.

 

[greg_in_canada]

I assumed they had shrink wrap on them already. If they don't he will definitely want to do that.

Greg

 

[loonybin]

Yep. In fact, that's how packs are made: solder the bare cells, then shrink some plastic around it. The OP will probably want to shrink them separately, though.

Bingo! I have both 2x123 and 1x123 lights, so I will be making them separate. The trick, I think, will be finding the right kind of plastic to shrink over them. Any ideas on where I can find some?

 

[Norm]

Heat shrink should be easy to find at an electrical wholesale place (I know Middy's have it in Australia) or somewhere that deals in components or hobby electronics.
Norm

 

[leeleefocus]

They look like they are marked as 2/3A cells.

 

[Sigman]

There's a MAJOR amount of information in the archives on this subject. Just search for 223 when you get there...I found too many to merge.

Don't tempt me though!

 

[lctorana]

Yes.

For what it's worth, the "23A" part of "CR123A" does indeed stand for "2/3 A" size.

I would be very careful about using these in 2-cell lights, unless I was confident about cell matching first.

Otherwise you'll be making an expensive firework.

 

[Fallingwater]

Where'd you get fifty two-cell batteries for free?

 

[Radio]

For those of us that work in hospitals you may want to give us a heads up as to what device these are pulled from. I haven't had to buy a 9V battery in 15 years The cardiac event monitors use 9V and MUST be replaced NEW for every patient, they routinely have greater than 90% remaining. Not sure what these have been pulled from but interested to find out.

 

[loonybin]

For those of us that work in hospitals you may want to give us a heads up as to what device these are pulled from. I haven't had to buy a 9V battery in 15 years The cardiac event monitors use 9V and MUST be replaced NEW for every patient, they routinely have greater than 90% remaining. Not sure what these have been pulled from but interested to find out.

They come from the driver for the Silverhawk atherectomy catheter. It is used to treat Peripheral Arterial/Vascular Disease (PAD or PVD for short) that can cause reduced blood flow to the legs, resulting in cramping, tiredness, weakness, and pain in the legs. It is a major cause of diabetic ulcers that diabetics get on their feet and legs that can sometimes get so bad as to require amputation. This device actually removes plaque from the peripheral arteries, restoring blood flow.

The Cath Lab I work in is one of the top 5 Silverhawk sites in the country. One of our cardiologists has performed over 1,200 Silverhawk procedures since the device came out in late 2004. Each catheter is shipped with a driver (battery and motor), but we frequently use 2 or 3 catheters in each case with only one driver. This has resulted in a surplus of drivers that we just don't really need, as each time we reorder catheters, we get another driver with each one. They are just sitting on a shelf in a cabinet, taking up space. I plan on liberating them from captivity and setting them free for a greater purpose.

 

[loonybin]

I would be very careful about using these in 2-cell lights, unless I was confident about cell matching first.

Otherwise you'll be making an expensive firework.

They come pre-matched, as you can tell from the pic above. After I shrink-wrap them, I will be storing them in pairs. If I need a battery for my Lumapower M3, I'll just grab one. If I need some for my Surefire G2, I'll grab a complete pair, leaving any singles alone.

 

[NA8]

Clear heat shrink tubing is nice as you can label the cans with a Sharpie and read it through the clear heat shrink. Nice if you want to keep those pairs together.

PS Good score.

 

[ledaholic]

Cleap packing tape works well for wraping cells also.

 

[n4zov]

Hospitals and other medical facilities can be good sources for used batteries. I have a relative who works in the maintenance department of a large hospital, and he keeps me supplied with all the 12V gel-cells I can use! They remove them on a scheduled basis from backup lighting systems and medical equipment with no thought of their condition. I end up with practically new batteries from 7 -36 amp that I use for various Ham radio projects. Companies that service alarm systems may also have batteries available.