dx 7w led light

[divinginn]

Does anyone else own this light? I have had one for a month or so,my first ho light,it has worked very well for me and throws a nice beam a long distance.It is claimed to be waterproof but I am not sure what depth it is good for if any,it is o ring sealed everywhere it need to be,I might take it diving this weekend to see if it holds up,but I like it so much I would hate to flood it. So far it has been the best 15 dollars I have ever spent on a light,now I want one with more power is this how the addiction gets started?

 

[LEDninja]

:welcome:
Which version of the light do you have?
2xCR123A or 3xAAA?
Lumileds USA or SSC P4 or Cree?

I do not use my brightest torches much. I buy new torches to find out what new technology can do.
5mm generic > Nichia > MJLED > 1 watt/3 watt > Cree XRE/SSC P4/Rebel > SSC P7.

For household duties I am using a 4xAA plastic stubby with a 1 watt drop in LED PR bulb.

For pocket/keychain EDC I have gone from
Mag Solitaire AAA, dim, lousy runtime; to
Dorcy AAA LED, dim, lumpy head; to
Fenix L1P AA, bright 1 watt; to
Civictor V1 AA, 1/4 inch shorter; to
L0P SE back to AAA, high (3rd mode) as bright as L1P: to
L0D CE AAA, medium (1st mode) as bright as L1P.
Note the progression from more runtime > brighter > smaller > smaller > easier to use. You may want to look at factors other than just brightness in your future purchases.

Yes I buy lights for brightness too, but I live downtown and do not go out at night much so I play with my bright lights just once in a while.
I have gone from 1 watt to 3x3 watt to 3xSSC P4 and have a P7 on the way.

 

[Gunner12]

If there are O-Rings at every opening, then it should at least be dunk proof.

If you have the Luxeon version(probably), you can double the output with out shortening runtime. Swap in a current gen LED, the Seoul P4 works best.

:welcome:

 

[divinginn]

it is a 123 powered luxeon light,I might just take it diving and if it floods it would be a great escuse to upgrade the chip.

 

[kramer5150]

This is by no means a scientific method, but its something I do to check the water resistance of my lights, before risking a destructive dunk-test. First check for O-ring presence and a snug fit at every junction (head to body, body to tailcap etc). Next take the switch cap off the light and place it in your mouth and blow/suck... real hard. If you can blow air pressure through the switch cap chances are its not going to hold water out. With the switch cap off, blow and suck into the body. If you can blow air pressure through the body, chances are its not going to hold water.

Some twist-switch caps (with tactical momentary) are only water tight when they are tightened down to the ON position, and will leak in the off or momentary position.

IMHO you should just get a Pelican or other dive-rated light. If I were a diver, the added peace of mind would be $$$ well spent. I imagine you probably have other things to worry about with a sport thats THAT gear-centric and dangerous.:twothumbs:twothumbs

 

[AvPD]

it is a 123 powered luxeon light,I might just take it diving and if it floods it would be a great escuse to upgrade the chip.

There are five 7W lights on DX, four of which use 123A.

 

[Fallingwater]

Give us a link so we know precisely what you're talking about.