E1e into E2e?

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Stingray

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 21, 2002
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Chicago
Do they make an extender to turn an E1e into an E2e? I kinda want both lights but it would be cool if I could just buy two LA's, a KL1, an E1e and an extension tube.
 
I am hopping to make one over the holliday but it will be finned and the thought was for taking an E2e to 3 cells for the KL1. I am curious to see what it will look like. I'm planning on keeping it at 1" OD instead of reducing the diameter just to have it get large again. (look like a boa that just swallowed a pig). On the E1e, the bump could serve as a syringe grip but on the E2e, I think it would look out of place. Any way you slice it, an adapter would be no where near as sleek as a solid tube. The classic sized surefires can get away with the additional cell adapters without the bumps due to their heavy wall thickness.

- Don
 
Were you planning on having it go between the bezel and the body or the body and the tailcap?
 
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Stingray,

The adapter will have to go between the head and existing power pak (E1 or E2). I believe Josh is referring to the internal lip in the tail of the power pack which is the contact point for the LOTC. This switch designs precludes any posabillity of extending another cell chamber from the rear. The extender I have in mind is a simple but large (1" OD) affair that has a male 13/16"x20 thread at one end and a female 13/16"x20 thread at the other. In a phone conversation with Dat2zip the other night, this part came up ( for another application) and we had a good laugh about it. See, with a bunch of these, you can just keep adding them and adding them. The mental image of 39 of these attached together with an E1e on one end and a custom bezel on the other to house a 25 watt, 120 volt light bulb with large Al work light reflector had us laughing.
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I'm not sure how you would holster a 4' long flashlight.
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- Don
 
But with two extenders on a E1 (or one on a E2)you would have 9vdc for the KL-1!
 
Roy,

That's one of the reasons I want to make this adapter. With an E2e and the adapter, you would have a UBH or E3. With Dat2zips wizard, that can handle up to 16 volts, you could go for an E4 or E5 for extended play as it were. Oh yeah, an E6 would hold 4 A or AA cells and make the LGI look short
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Another consideration is the 5 W ramifications where these large finned sections would aid in thermal efficiency.

- Don
 
Originally posted by McGizmo:
.....Any way you slice it, an adapter would be no where near as sleek as a solid tube.....
- Don
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Don,

Your adapters will give infinite extendability, and I believe that Doug's tube will retain the sleekness within an EDC'able length.

Your Chia image is hilarious!

Brightnorm
 
Sounds like it just wicks the sweat away and its evaporation is what dissipates the body heat. You will note that the manufacture doesn't recommend the use of this vest [for cooling purposes] in jackets that exclude airflow. Wrapping a flashlight in wet cotton would do as much in the way of cooling it [anybody remember the old lister bags?].

Dan
 
McGizmo,
The 4 footer might come in handy while crawling around my attic looking for stuff...lol.

The 5W's are looking better with the cooling fin adapter approach. What about a micro fan to aid in cooling. Or something along the lines of that new material (coolmax orsomething) they use for cooling vests for motorcyclists that is supposed to "wick away" the heat. A little sheath made of it might be fun to experiment with:)
 
Stingray,

I have wondered about those gell materials myself. Don't know anything about them; is heat consumed or just transfered? We need some organisisms that thrive on heat and pull it from a fluid! Have a filled chamber and let these guys multiply off the provided heat and then let them out when the population gets too overcrowded. Maybe some of those tube worms that live in the volcanic vents under the ocean
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I can see it now, a chia flashlight that you have to give a haircut to.
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Some of those vests just wick away the sweat and evaporate it for cooling (coolmax eg). These work differently, thru some polymer heat transfer deal and then use air cooling for the final removal of the heat. I don't really know much about it though.
 
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