Eagletac D25aaa

Big_Sam

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Nov 4, 2014
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For EU/UK members, I hear that flashaholics.co.uk will be getting their stock next week, I'll be ordering a couple! Don't forget to get the discount code from marketplace ;)
 

NonSenCe

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Dec 23, 2008
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below polar circle.. in country which used to make
big dissapointment that it once again is a twisty light. i was really hoping a clicky. and also would like the moonlight mode to be kept as an option. -oh well.. maybe v2 will be clicky and moonlight as option too. (really liking the nichia or neutral tint option in it.)
 

orbital

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NICHIA 219b D220 LED (4500K, HIGH CRI 92)
LED Lumen: 115*/48/10
OTF Lumen: 68*/32/7

7 lumens to start with is usable for me,,, from illuminationgear.com
 

defloyd77

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May 10, 2007
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Wisconsin
It does not bother me 6 hours is more than enough for me and it takes less than a minute to swap out a battery.None of my AAA lights have extended use.


For me, this light would be a part of a minimal EDC when I have to wear clothes with very little pocket room, no backups, so good runtime is definitely a plus, especially when you are as forgetful as me and forget to do a swap before going out. That's what I love about the E01, my current light for this use, it's very forgiving.

With that said, I still may get one, I never had a 219 before.
 

MojaveMoon07

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Sep 29, 2009
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I'm concerned about the magnet in the tailcap after reading a negative testimonial about the foursevens atom's magnet.

http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25aaa/index.html
A strong rare earth magnet is installed at the back of the tailcap

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?384538-4Sevens-Atoms-Family-Review

Last weekend, I spent the night in a hotel. Since I had 2 room keys, and having seem claims that the magnet will not effect credit cards, etc., I left my keys near one of the room keys overnight. The key did not work the following morning.
--
Anyone who tells you strong magnets won't affect cards etc is hedging the truth. The magnets are strong, making them useful in holding the lights on metal surfaces [...] If you wish to use the light close to credit cards etc (yes, like on a keychain) perhaps it's best to demagnetize the light using a lighter (as suggested by 4Sevens). Otherwise, I find the magnets useful.
--
They look like nice flashlights, but I really don't like the idea of carrying a powerful rare earth magnet in my pocket. Seems like a great way to screw up any card with a magnetic stripe.
--
One additional comment about demagnetization: the black residue that appeared on the outside of the light also appeared on the inside of the light. After demagnetization, my light developed some serous reliability issues in terms of mode skipping as well as remaining on when turned on. Cleaning out the inside of the tube with a Q-tip seriously reduced the problem. Cleaning the inside contact surface of the head of the light (which was not on the light during heating, but lubricant may have subsequently worked its way up there) solved the remainder of the issues.
 

fliptwister

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Oct 29, 2012
Messages
10
Very interested in this light. Can the clip be removed? I have no interest in having clip. Thanks!
 

LEDburn

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Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
265
Chuck it tail down on a frying pan for a short period. Remove it and test to see if there is still some residul magnetism. If there is then just heat it for a bit more.

I believe the heat should be somewhat cumulative, so you should be able to do it in a couple of short stints. Shouldn't be a need to leave it on there for ages.

I would recommend you obviously remove the head, battery and o-ring.
 

Chicken Drumstick

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Dec 9, 2011
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UK
I prefer PWM dimming. In most cases it is not detectable, and it preserves the beam tint, instead of going green in the lower modes.
I would take PWM over current control every time.
Not all current controlled lower modes suffer tint shifting. Although I don't know why.

And PWM is very noticeable. Don't believe me, just wave your index finger up and down infront of the torch and observe the disco like strobe affect.
 

Chicken Drumstick

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Dec 9, 2011
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Anyone know if it's 10440 compatible?

Also looks to be a shame about the modes. I think a lower low would have been nice in a light this size. Afterall it seems crazy to find a large light just to get a moonlight mode.

Note sure about the mid either, seems you'd just use high or low. And I still can't see the point in a strobe on a light this size and with a UI that takes so long to get to it. There really is ZERO point in it.

Love the clip and the magnet however.

Last up, do you think they drive the Nichia at the same amps as the XP-G2? Seems a shame to see the lumen drop. Guess it would not help the Nichia sales, but a shame they don't offer something like an XP-G2 R5 3C NW and 80CRI. It's pretty darn close to the Nichia visually, but more lumens.
 

Chicken Drumstick

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Just noticed something else on the specs page:


[h=3]Lens[/h]
  • Waterwhite glass lens w/ harden treatment
  • Anti-reflective (AR) coating on both side (96% transparency)
[h=3]Reflector[/h]
  • Optical grade acrylic TIR optics





Do you really think it has a plastic TIR and a glass lens?
 

Bad_JuJu

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Joined
Jun 18, 2014
Messages
98
Location
Pa-Va
Just noticed something else on the specs page:


Lens


  • Waterwhite glass lens w/ harden treatment
  • Anti-reflective (AR) coating on both side (96% transparency)
Reflector


  • Optical grade acrylic TIR optics





Do you really think it has a plastic TIR and a glass lens?

Only one way to find out...
 

twl

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Joined
Feb 20, 2005
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TN
Not all current controlled lower modes suffer tint shifting. Although I don't know why.

And PWM is very noticeable. Don't believe me, just wave your index finger up and down infront of the torch and observe the disco like strobe affect.
I know what PWM is. I have some PWM lights and some current controlled lights. I rarely find myself pointing my lights at fan blades, or doing other "tests" to find out if I can force them into some artificial circumstance where I "might" be just barely able to detect some PWM effects. My PWM lights are essentially undetectable in normal use.

If I had a curremt controlled light that didn't turn green in the low modes, I would like that just fine.
i don't care what method they use, as long as it doesn't cause issues in normal use. And from the experiences I have had, I notice much less intrusion from PWM than current controlled.
That being said, if the PWM was a "strobe light" that is easily detectable in normal use, then I wouldn't like that.
But my lights are primarily quality made lights from the US. The Chinese lights may not be up to this standard to which I am accustomed.

I don't have any EagTacs, but this looked intetesting until I found out it had a magnet in it.
Now it"s no longer interesting.
 

yoyoman

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Nov 15, 2012
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Switzerland/Scarsdale
I have one light with slow PWM. All the others are fast - I guess the correct term is high frequency - and the PWM is not noticeable. PWM is also sometimes called constant color.

Current controlled lights may change the tint a low level, but I only notice that when white wall hunting. Never noticed it in actual use.

PWM is a polarizing topic. Some are sensitive to it and many just hate the idea of it. Some people also hate the tint changes that can come from constant current. A very polarizing topic. Almost as polarizing as the ZL UI, lol.
 

orbital

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Feb 8, 2007
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Flat regulation gives the same tint & output straight across,, you'll likely pop in a fresh cell way before it's out of regulation.
the tint argument is suggestive thinking done by a manufacturer who can't do flat regulation.

Because the clip is removable, finding a different clip could be a possibility
 

yoyoman

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Nov 15, 2012
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^ What about tint changes at lower modes? Is that a misperception on my part due to the lower output?
 
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