EagleTac T100C2
- Thread starter AardvarkSagus
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Sgt. LED
Flashaholic
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=231456
OK, take a quick read through this thread.
OK, take a quick read through this thread.
Outdoors Fanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Schwartz
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2008
- Messages
- 22
I just got mine and have been checking it over. Its nowhere near dark here but it looks like there is a dark spot in the center. The LED doesn't appear to be perfectly centered. I don't see any fingerprints on the lens but there is what I would consider a fair bit of dust under it and on the reflector. So far the switch seems to only work 85% of the time. It will click on fine but the light won't turn off until I click it one or more times. I'm not sure what to think about that I wonder if it will get better with use. The rest of the light seems pretty nice. I don't know quite what to think so far; it has a couple issues but I guess you get what you pay for. Seems plenty bright. I have a L2D and a TK20 and this is brighter than either of those.
AardvarkSagus
Flashlight Enthusiast
I just received shipping confirmation that mine is now on it's way (as is my M2XC4 by the way). Impressions in this thread (of the T100) and review soon afterward on my site and probably here as well.
Can't wait for another of your excellent reviews :thumbsup:
Me too!
Schwartz
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2008
- Messages
- 22
Well after playing around outside with it for a while I think I am going to like this light. The dark spot in the center of the beam isn't too bad. It throws pretty far with usable spill for walking. The switch isn't acting any better but I'll see how that is after a bit of use. I'm guessing the switch guts can be removed by using something in the two holes in there?
Sgt. LED
Flashaholic
Yep, comes right out. My switch is good so you either have a bum one or it just needs taken out, lubed, and put back in.
You happy with the T100C2 overall Sarg?
Sgt. LED
Flashaholic
Yes I am. I personally see this light as being what the Fenix TK11 was supposed to be but didn't deliver. Others might not feel the same but I have my opinions. All I see being better on the TK11 is the thicker bezel ONLY if you were planning on bashing things. I plan on carrying it so I welcome the proportions of this bezel!
It's tough, well regulated, bright, throws very well but still gives you usable spill, decently heatsinked, waterproof, good knurling-everywhere, doesn't roll, and the light doesn't look goofy if you want to remove the grip ring.
The beam is very interesting! It throws like an XR-E in a smooth D26 reflector but instead of getting a meager spill that is ringy you get a bright OP like spill that is pretty smooth. In a head to head with a Deerelight smooth R2 WH driven at 1.2A it appeared that the throw was nearly equal. It wasn't. I was being mislead by the bright spill of the XP-E. If you looked at just the hotspot of each at good distance the XP-E spot was not spreading out as fast as the XR-E. Also the lumen count of the Deerelight module is a bit higher. I wish I knew the drive level on this Eagletac.
There is a slight donut but it isn't very strong. The click is kind of loud but it's a good solid feeling switch. There is a tint shift in mine. On low it looks to be 5000K and on high I would estimate it at 6200K.
All I need is a diffuser, a lower low of 30L, and tail-standing and it would be superb. OK maybe give me a R2 WH XP-E in it driven at 1A too!!!!
It's tough, well regulated, bright, throws very well but still gives you usable spill, decently heatsinked, waterproof, good knurling-everywhere, doesn't roll, and the light doesn't look goofy if you want to remove the grip ring.
The beam is very interesting! It throws like an XR-E in a smooth D26 reflector but instead of getting a meager spill that is ringy you get a bright OP like spill that is pretty smooth. In a head to head with a Deerelight smooth R2 WH driven at 1.2A it appeared that the throw was nearly equal. It wasn't. I was being mislead by the bright spill of the XP-E. If you looked at just the hotspot of each at good distance the XP-E spot was not spreading out as fast as the XR-E. Also the lumen count of the Deerelight module is a bit higher. I wish I knew the drive level on this Eagletac.
There is a slight donut but it isn't very strong. The click is kind of loud but it's a good solid feeling switch. There is a tint shift in mine. On low it looks to be 5000K and on high I would estimate it at 6200K.
All I need is a diffuser, a lower low of 30L, and tail-standing and it would be superb. OK maybe give me a R2 WH XP-E in it driven at 1A too!!!!
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I just got mine. It feels pretty solidly built; however, it's acting a little odd.
When changing modes, unlike p100c2, I can only loosen the bezel by about 1/8 revolution. if turned pass 1/4, it starts to light up intermittently.
This is annoying because I'm use to turning the bezel at least 1/3 of a revolution for mode switching.
If I push the clicky switch just to the point that it clicks, it won't stay on. I have to click it real good and deep to ensure that it stays on (sometimes it just won't stays on, it's like a lottery)(friction in the switch?)
The beam pattern isn't as smooth as my p100c2, due to non-centered emitter. Throws pretty good though.
Oh, and the cap of the battery magazine looks all scratched and messed up...
To me, it's pretty defected alright... 🙁
When changing modes, unlike p100c2, I can only loosen the bezel by about 1/8 revolution. if turned pass 1/4, it starts to light up intermittently.
This is annoying because I'm use to turning the bezel at least 1/3 of a revolution for mode switching.
If I push the clicky switch just to the point that it clicks, it won't stay on. I have to click it real good and deep to ensure that it stays on (sometimes it just won't stays on, it's like a lottery)(friction in the switch?)
The beam pattern isn't as smooth as my p100c2, due to non-centered emitter. Throws pretty good though.
Oh, and the cap of the battery magazine looks all scratched and messed up...
To me, it's pretty defected alright... 🙁
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Hmm...Out of the few that are out, a couple of them are complaining that they are defective... Im going to give it a week or so to see if this continues. My mouse is already over the "BU" button but itll **** me off if I get a defective one as my first real light...
Schwartz
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2008
- Messages
- 22
I registered the light using the info on the registration card. I mentioned the LED being slightly off center, the dust under the lens, and the switch not working right. A few hours later I got an email from Nicole asking for my shipping address to send me a replacement switch assembly. I was pleasantly surprised; I wasn't even remotely expecting a response from the registration comments. :thumbsup:
After playing around with the light a few more hours tonight the LED being slightly off center and the dust still doesn't kill it for me. I am really liking this light.
My battery magazine cap is messed up looking too. I'm not really bothered by that because I am using a 18650 and even if I wasn't it is probably still fine. Maybe it was sanded to remove excess plastic which is better than getting cut on it.
After playing around with the light a few more hours tonight the LED being slightly off center and the dust still doesn't kill it for me. I am really liking this light.
My battery magazine cap is messed up looking too. I'm not really bothered by that because I am using a 18650 and even if I wasn't it is probably still fine. Maybe it was sanded to remove excess plastic which is better than getting cut on it.
Schwartz
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2008
- Messages
- 22
When it is tightened all the way down and turned on it doesn't take much to hit the next level when unscrewing it; 1mm or maybe 2mm at the most. From there I can turn it just over 1 rotation before the light turns off. With the light off I can turn it anywhere I want without it coming on. Mine seems to be working as intended with the exception of the switch.
