Energizer 15 min CH15MN2 Differences?

radellaf

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I just picked up a new version of the Energizer 15 min charger from WalMart, $30 with 4xAA 2300 "Energizer Recharge" cells Model CH15MN2 . I see some discussion on here of the 2300 energizers, but all the posts about 15 min chargers are 3-5 years old.

Anyone done any testing on the new version?

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Couldn't find any definite conclusions as to whether these 2300mAh Energizers are the same as the old ones of the same capacity. Just wondering if these "new" energizers are now the best in-store available non-LSD NiMH cells?

They say made in Japan, but no "HR" stamp on the bottom. They're not LSD from the test results I saw, but the charge retention seemed way better than typical NiMH. Too many of the comparisons were "polluted" by comparisons with 2400+ mAh AAs, none of which I've been real happy with. And of course, the text on the box is comparing with their own 2450 cells. I gave away all my regular NiMH cells when the eneloops debuted, and never had any regrets. But,

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One thing I think is different is that it's only 15 min with 1 or 2 cells. 3 or 4 and it's a 30 min charger. Naturally, I'm curious if it can be modified to charge 2 at the 30 min rate.
Main motivation for buying it was that it looks like a book or a WD Essentials hard drive (a lot cooler than the old version) and, well, I was on a car trip and wanted some charged batteries before reaching my destination. This model includes a car cord. Can't say I have too much use for this thing at home, but 15 or 30 minutes is great on the road. If you're in more of a hurry, I imagine not charging to 100% is better for the cells, too. The new model sure smells the same as the RayOVac, Duracell, and old Energizer 15 min. There's some sort of plastic electronics smell that seems unique to these chargers. I remember it from some 1980s electronics, too, and from any time I let the smoke out of a plastic packaged semiconductor. It's not burning components, though, since the smell is there right out of the package. Unless their burn-in testing really lives up to the name.
 
I looked at this charger in Wal-Mart recently.

The earlier charger had space round the cells with air vents and a powerful fan. The new charger looks like the cells are packed closely together with no fan. When you charge two cells in 15 minutes, does it say which slots you should put them in (such as the outer two slots, for example)?

What about the DC input? The old charger had a big heavy 16 V DC power brick. Is the new charger 16 V or 12 V input?
 
I have some of the 2300 mAh Energizers and they're great. They don't have the problems that the 2500's had. At work we have one of the Energizer AA 15 minute chargers (no idea what the model # is), it cooks the batteries and they only last about 8 charge cycles before they're permantently damaged. I don't trust any charger that charges in 2 hours or less except for my IC3 batteries and charger, but they are no longer made. I still have quite a few of them tho.
 
The new charger has a pretty powerful fan right under the batteries. It cools them, and also blows a little air over the electronics, which is why there's a vent near the power input.

It says 11-16V at 2.5A and the AC adapter puts out 16V 2.5A.

I've used it once with all 4, and then with a pair after I used them. The batteries get hot, sure, but not so hot I can't keep my finger on them (140F perhaps?). I think the pair got hotter on the 8.6A (vs 4.3A) charge but again, I've felt a LOT worse back in the day with some 1-2 hour chargers like the MH401FS (?), and batteries I charged in that lasted 5+ years. If this charger kills batteries faster than SilverFox's 125 cycle ratings for the earlier version, it's definitely not because of too much (surface) heat.

BTW, under each (-) contact is a little green component that I'd bet is a thermistor. Only the (+) contacts are springy, so that's a nice solid place to mount one. I also assume that there's a switch in there to detect how far in the + contact is, and select AAA or AA charge rates.
 
Differences:

The CH15MN says input 11-16 V, 5 A and charges up to 4 AA cells at 7.5 A. The AC adapter supplies 4 A at 16 V. I presume higher supply currents are needed at 12 V compared to 16 V.

The CH15MN also has a powerful fan, but I found that even when the outside of the batteries remains cool, the internal pressure can build high enough to open the safety vent. This is really not good, and so if I use the charger I manually stop it after 10 minutes and do not let it go to termination.
 
I don't have any experience with that charger but I do have 8 of the 2300's and they are very good batteries. I have been doing my own self-discharge on 4 of them (along with 10 other different kinds of batteries) and 3 of the 2300's have been at 100% charge going on 22 weeks now but one of them dropped to 80% after the 20th week. Not too bad for non-lsd batteries.
 
22 weeks at 100%? Yeah, that's really good. I can deal with them needing a top off in 6 months. 2 months is a pain. 2 weeks is useless ;)

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So this one puts out an extra amp of charge current, just to make things more interesting. ( 8.6x15min=2150mAh... <shrug>)

Well, I've read the old tests ( http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=114943 ) so if I use it for more than the occasional use in the car, at least I know the details. And, yeah, 10 min for discharged cells seems like it wouldn't hurt anything.

Per the graphs here ( http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140217 ), I wonder if waiting for the fan to shut off is an even worse idea than green-light-off, as I think SilverFox's tests were all done by pulling the cells by the light.

What I'd really love is for someone with the test-bench to make such a graph for the new charger to see if it's any different, after 6 years for Energizer to think about the algorithm.

Or, any recommendations on the cheapest usable logging DMM? I'd think there'd be a USB based one with all the smarts in the PC that could be pretty cheap. Last place I worked we got a USB oscilloscope, but the PC side software wasn't long on features and it could only "log" one sweep.

EDIT: I found this for $65.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQONYM/?tag=cpf0b6-20
I'd have to bootcamp my mac into Windows to use it (blech!) but you can't beat the price. Just need I guess about .005 ohm (40mV max additional voltage, shouldn't mess up the charger I'd hope) resistor, even if it's just a piece of wire, and I could probably make a go of it.
 
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I never remembered the old one being slower when you charge 3-4 batteries. The new version takes twice as long to charge when you have 3-4 batteries in it instead of 1-2.
 
I consider that a plus, if you have 4 to charge, but yeah, it is a difference from the old version.
 
Or, any recommendations on the cheapest usable logging DMM? I'd think there'd be a USB based one with all the smarts in the PC that could be pretty cheap. Last place I worked we got a USB oscilloscope, but the PC side software wasn't long on features and it could only "log" one sweep.
For logging, I have used this setup: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=261833

Sorry, it is also Windows and the included software has limitations. However, you can write your own capture software (example code included in thread).
 
Price is about the same for the newer meter, it has the serial-to-usb converter built in (though that is lame compared to using real USB), and... the RS one looks discontinued. But... I don't think I'm going to spend near $100 to test a charger any time soon. Rather get a MC-E flashlight... Either someone else'll have to, or maybe my next job will come with a good electronics lab and some freedom to use it after hours.
 
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Dropped by Radio Shack on the way back from vacation to see if they had a logging meter. No, but I did pick up a cute little pocket clip IR thermometer.

Charging a pair of pretty low Batts And checking temp about every 30 sec I think it's a lot like it was.

Main charge got up to 126f. Down to about 100f for a minute about 10 min in. Back up, then down to 100 or so right after light goes green. A min or so later, up to 105-110 until just before fan off at 26 min.

Silver labels so correct the measurements 5% I think?
 
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