entoptics
Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2009
- Messages
- 388
EOS A3 SS mods (reversible clip, magnet, and checkering) update 10/11/10
Older posts are labeled in red by date at the bottom of this post.
Click any image thumbnail for a full size view
Update 10-11-10
I gave away the first SS EOS A3 that's discussed below. I ended up getting another one in a "Christmas Set" with an A6 Polestar (great deal on Ebay, $70 shipped). I decided to have another go at the modifications, with some upgrades.
As you an see, I did a better job on the checkering this time, and more importantly, REVERSIBLE POCKET CLIP FTW!!!!
I simply milled off a the sides of the pre-existing groove near the head/body join, then did the same JB weld fill. I left the lathe marks rough to ensure a good JB weld bond. I may clean them up now, but the clip also grips better, so I probably will deal with "ugly" to have more "useful". I also used the lathe to turn down the JB weld flush with the grip instead of sanding like last time (MUCH EASIER).
Now, the light has a sturdy swivel proof clip that can be quickly reversed for use as a ball cap "head lamp". Unfortunately, the clip is a smidge long for easy tail-standing when reversed, but the magnet makes that irrelevant when the surface is metal.
I also used epoxy instead of superglue to attach the magnet. The superglue on the original EOS broke loose after awhile. I suspect the epoxy will be much more durable (and unfortunately PERMANENT).
Finally, I also added a blob of epoxy to the surface of the magnet, which I lathed off flat after it hardened. This will ensure the magnet is protected from shattering (powerful enough magnet to SNICK to a surface so hard it could break) and it will also be less likely to mar/scratch surfaces it's attached too.
Anyway, hope you enjoy. I consider this baby close to the ultimate "tiny" EDC light. I just wish I could figure out a way to attach a magnet to my D10.
Update 7-16-10
I've been complaining about the lack of traction on the SS EOS A3 since I first got the thing in hand. Slicker than a greased lawyer for mode switching, and it would slide right out of a pocket when clipped. Today I did something about it.
Simply chucked it in a lathe, and 15 minutes later I had some 0.010" deep grooves around it. Worked like a charm.
It's not exactly super grippy, but it's 1000% better than it was. One handed switching is no problem now. The added lengthways traction helps it stay clipped in the pocket better too (even better with the shrink wrap).
I also think it looks better, but that's subjective I guess.
Update: 6-24-2010
Magnet Mod is so far a complete success. It will require some EDC to determine if it's good. The magnet is also very powerful (see the pictures below), and I'm concerned about credit cards and such. I think a thinner magnet and a washer for space would make this mod "safer" if you're concerned about electronics and magnet strips.
Drilling the magnet out is not trivial. These magnets are counter sunk, and almost clear the key ring nub on their own, but it requires some VERY careful clamping and drilling to wallow out the narrow end of the counter sink, enough for it to seat flush. You do not need to drill all the way through, just open up the small end of the cone. I demolished 2 magnets trying this. A dremel tool may work better. The magnets are very brittle, and the nickel plating is prone to flaking off.
I simply scuffed the light and magnet mating surfaces and applied a ring of very tiny super glue dabs and the bond seems to be "Strong like bull!"
Installed magnet (R822CS) on EOS A3 SS (RA22CS for EOS A2). I also redid the JB weld clip mod and it is holding well so far, with improved fit and finish.
iTP EOS A3 showing off its muscles. I'm not sure the magnet is strong enough, cause who knows when you'll need to suspend 4 or 5 pairs of vice grips.:nana:
Update 10-11-10
Got a free iTP EOS A3 in SS (part of A6 Polestar X-mas set), and was really stoked. Turns out the SS model is a hunk o junk in terms of operation/carry compared to the aluminum models. Heavy, head turns harder, grip is slipperier than snake snot, and the pocket clip spins around the barrel like it's on ball bearings. It sure is pretty though.
I love the EOS A3 (wife has a purple one), and was bummed that mine was so bad to deal with. "What to do now?" I asked myself...
Commence the modifications of course...
First I dealt with the rotating pocket clip with some JB weld...
I first sanded the area where the JB weld would go for better bonding (and failed, more on that in a minute). I used tape to protect the areas I wanted to remain shiny. Then I inverted my taping scheme and taped the area where the JB would go and liberally applied silicone grease to work as a releasing agent to prevent JB weld from sticking where I didn't want it. I gooed the barrel and pocket clip sufficiently and applied the JB weld with the clip installed. When it was still soft, I roughly trimmed it to reduce the sanding and detail work later.
Next, after the JB had cured, I taped the shiny areas and sanded the JB weld flush with the barrel. I worked up from 320 to 1500 grit.
Click thumbnails for full size images
Voila...pocket clip no longer spins, but is still removable.
Unfortunately, I didn't score the barrel enough, and the JB weld cracked off a little on one side. Gonna have to start over, but if I can get it to stick, it will be perfect. This will give me an oportunity to clean up the JB weld job too. I'll probably get some silver hobby paint and paint the JB so it blends better.
Next, I addressed the tail standing issue. Faucet washer from Ace hardware, a little scoring on the top for a good bond, and some super glue.
When I redo the JB weld job, I'll also sand the washer flush with the barrel and probably add some silver paint there as well.
Not too bad if I do say so myself. Not exactly SureFire fit and finish, but I'm more of a utility guy anyway. Tailstanding is a big thing for me, and the light is much easier to use when the clip holds still, and provides a bit more grip for turning the head one handed.
Older posts are labeled in red by date at the bottom of this post.
Click any image thumbnail for a full size view
Update 10-11-10
I gave away the first SS EOS A3 that's discussed below. I ended up getting another one in a "Christmas Set" with an A6 Polestar (great deal on Ebay, $70 shipped). I decided to have another go at the modifications, with some upgrades.
As you an see, I did a better job on the checkering this time, and more importantly, REVERSIBLE POCKET CLIP FTW!!!!
I simply milled off a the sides of the pre-existing groove near the head/body join, then did the same JB weld fill. I left the lathe marks rough to ensure a good JB weld bond. I may clean them up now, but the clip also grips better, so I probably will deal with "ugly" to have more "useful". I also used the lathe to turn down the JB weld flush with the grip instead of sanding like last time (MUCH EASIER).
Now, the light has a sturdy swivel proof clip that can be quickly reversed for use as a ball cap "head lamp". Unfortunately, the clip is a smidge long for easy tail-standing when reversed, but the magnet makes that irrelevant when the surface is metal.
I also used epoxy instead of superglue to attach the magnet. The superglue on the original EOS broke loose after awhile. I suspect the epoxy will be much more durable (and unfortunately PERMANENT).
Finally, I also added a blob of epoxy to the surface of the magnet, which I lathed off flat after it hardened. This will ensure the magnet is protected from shattering (powerful enough magnet to SNICK to a surface so hard it could break) and it will also be less likely to mar/scratch surfaces it's attached too.
Anyway, hope you enjoy. I consider this baby close to the ultimate "tiny" EDC light. I just wish I could figure out a way to attach a magnet to my D10.
Update 7-16-10
I've been complaining about the lack of traction on the SS EOS A3 since I first got the thing in hand. Slicker than a greased lawyer for mode switching, and it would slide right out of a pocket when clipped. Today I did something about it.
Simply chucked it in a lathe, and 15 minutes later I had some 0.010" deep grooves around it. Worked like a charm.
It's not exactly super grippy, but it's 1000% better than it was. One handed switching is no problem now. The added lengthways traction helps it stay clipped in the pocket better too (even better with the shrink wrap).
I also think it looks better, but that's subjective I guess.
Update: 6-24-2010
Magnet Mod is so far a complete success. It will require some EDC to determine if it's good. The magnet is also very powerful (see the pictures below), and I'm concerned about credit cards and such. I think a thinner magnet and a washer for space would make this mod "safer" if you're concerned about electronics and magnet strips.
Drilling the magnet out is not trivial. These magnets are counter sunk, and almost clear the key ring nub on their own, but it requires some VERY careful clamping and drilling to wallow out the narrow end of the counter sink, enough for it to seat flush. You do not need to drill all the way through, just open up the small end of the cone. I demolished 2 magnets trying this. A dremel tool may work better. The magnets are very brittle, and the nickel plating is prone to flaking off.
I simply scuffed the light and magnet mating surfaces and applied a ring of very tiny super glue dabs and the bond seems to be "Strong like bull!"
Installed magnet (R822CS) on EOS A3 SS (RA22CS for EOS A2). I also redid the JB weld clip mod and it is holding well so far, with improved fit and finish.
iTP EOS A3 showing off its muscles. I'm not sure the magnet is strong enough, cause who knows when you'll need to suspend 4 or 5 pairs of vice grips.:nana:
Update 10-11-10
Got a free iTP EOS A3 in SS (part of A6 Polestar X-mas set), and was really stoked. Turns out the SS model is a hunk o junk in terms of operation/carry compared to the aluminum models. Heavy, head turns harder, grip is slipperier than snake snot, and the pocket clip spins around the barrel like it's on ball bearings. It sure is pretty though.
I love the EOS A3 (wife has a purple one), and was bummed that mine was so bad to deal with. "What to do now?" I asked myself...
Commence the modifications of course...
First I dealt with the rotating pocket clip with some JB weld...
I first sanded the area where the JB weld would go for better bonding (and failed, more on that in a minute). I used tape to protect the areas I wanted to remain shiny. Then I inverted my taping scheme and taped the area where the JB would go and liberally applied silicone grease to work as a releasing agent to prevent JB weld from sticking where I didn't want it. I gooed the barrel and pocket clip sufficiently and applied the JB weld with the clip installed. When it was still soft, I roughly trimmed it to reduce the sanding and detail work later.
Next, after the JB had cured, I taped the shiny areas and sanded the JB weld flush with the barrel. I worked up from 320 to 1500 grit.
Click thumbnails for full size images
Voila...pocket clip no longer spins, but is still removable.
Unfortunately, I didn't score the barrel enough, and the JB weld cracked off a little on one side. Gonna have to start over, but if I can get it to stick, it will be perfect. This will give me an oportunity to clean up the JB weld job too. I'll probably get some silver hobby paint and paint the JB so it blends better.
Next, I addressed the tail standing issue. Faucet washer from Ace hardware, a little scoring on the top for a good bond, and some super glue.
When I redo the JB weld job, I'll also sand the washer flush with the barrel and probably add some silver paint there as well.
Not too bad if I do say so myself. Not exactly SureFire fit and finish, but I'm more of a utility guy anyway. Tailstanding is a big thing for me, and the light is much easier to use when the clip holds still, and provides a bit more grip for turning the head one handed.
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Nice mods as well.
