Extreme durability EDC

[TheSpicyTuna]

In addition to durability runtime is also very important to me. I would like a light that has the higher light output levels for everyday use/fun, but in the event I need to use a light for a long period of time the 150+day eco modes are very appealing. As someone who is very new to lights I don't feel comfortable just yet jumping into custom lights, though im SURE that superior lights can be built/pieced together over mass mfctr'd lights.

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

I'm sorry its 130 days.

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

Thing I like about the Armytek Viking PRO: FULL stabilization, Ability to work when the main electric circuit is damaged, Auto-memorization of the last used mode, Built-in low battery indication, Built-in high temperature indication, Indication of battery voltage, and mostly the 130day eco mode.

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

Things I like about the Armytek Viking non-PRO: Tailcap mode switching vs the PROs head rotation switching! That is the big thing for me. I would MUCH prefer button mode switching over rotating the head. If I can get over that, I will make this light mine. I don't suppose I will be switching modes as often as I think I will be...

 

[Knight_Light]

Things I like about the Armytek Viking non-PRO: Tailcap mode switching vs the PROs head rotation switching! That is the big thing for me. I would MUCH prefer button mode switching over rotating the head

I would have to agree with you on this one.

 

[archimedes]

....The MOST IMPORTANT thing is that the light is nearly bulletproof/indestructible....

This has been a very interesting "Recommend" thread ....

Going back to the OP priority listed above, I think that I would give strong consideration to some of the "simpler" choices already discussed (Malkoff, Elzetta, Peak) ... less complex = less to fail/break.

I would also suggest choosing a torch with "potted" electronics, and a "twisty" switch, if you are looking for the ultimate in durability and reliability.

Given your interest in a setup with flexible power options, a modular approach may also be desirable.

Top of my list would be Peak (almost endless options available, with battery adapters and interchangeable tubes/parts), or Malkoff(s) with both R/CR123A and 2xAA Twisty hosts.

If you choose to go "modular", though, remember that it will be up to you to ensure that the voltage is appropriately matched (!)

EDIT - as others have mentioned, some of your other listed criteria conflict a bit, so I have focused on your listed top priority above .... In other words, it is a challenge to find a small 800 lumen flashlight that runs on an AA for 3+ hours ;)

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

Archimedes-- Believe me it will get even more interesting before it is over!!

I appreciate everyone sticking with me here as i have changed my mind on a few things over the course of the thread. I am learning a ton about not only lights, but lights that suit me :)

Ill check out the peak.


Sent from my iPhone.

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

The Peak NP600 looks like it may be something i am interested in, but correct me if I am wrong but shouldn't i aim to buy a XM-L2 light over a XM-L or XP-G??

I did some reading on the LEDs and their different 'bins' etc, but am still a little confused as to which one is the brightest/most efficient latest technology.


Sent from my iPhone.

 

[CMAG]

The Peak NP600 looks like it may be something i am interested in, but correct me if I am wrong but shouldn't i aim to buy a XM-L2 light over a XM-L or XP-G??

I did some reading on the LEDs and their different 'bins' etc, but am still a little confused as to which one is the brightest/most efficient latest technology.


Sent from my iPhone.

Yes cool xml2 if brightest and run time is all you want. Also consider, Smaller die led's make better throwers larger die more flood is the basic rule of thumb Temp and cri should also be considered, cool/high temp will be brighter but at the loss of seeing true colors also hard on the eye for close up work and reading
From what I get you are looking for a cool xml2 is fine much more wow factor than say warm.
a Torchlab Tri is xpg 1600 Lu wall of light on high and low is low enough for good run time. These come HML or LMH and no memory I know you want memory and so do most but no memory has advantages to consider 1 you never forget what mode it is in 2 some drivers (and this varies allot) don't lock in unless the light is on for 5 or10 seconds this can be bad news as many times I turn my light on for 2 to 3 seconds to check something now the mode shifts (Gizmo and others mode change locks in fast and this is not a issue but changing modes takes some getting use to) this will be a subject of debate along with tints forever around here I prefer no memory, control ring is cool idea but not a big fan more to go wrong.

some other info you should give or consider is how are you carrying (pocket clip holster pack) and do you want more throw or flood

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

Yes cool xml2 if brightest is all you want. Also consider, Smaller die led's make better throwers larger die more flood is the basic rule of thumb Temp and cri should also be considered, cool/high temp will be brighter but at the loss of seeing true colors also hard on the eye for close up work and reading


some other info you should give or consider is how are you carrying (pocket clip holster pack) and do you want more throw or flood

I will be using a pocket clip mostly, probably never a lanyard, and when its not in the pocket it will be in a backpack. As far as the throw and flood of course I want a combo. I like the flood/throw characteristics of the RC40, and I know that this light is nowhere close to that caliber of light, but I would like the ratio similar.

 

[CMAG]

I like pocket clip also for EDC. Look at these close most are cr@@p (Yea I opened up a whole new can of worms) Most what I call clip on clips Su@k pardon my french the best clips I have are on my McGizmo's and Mac's
Anyway as I say look close at the clip I canned many fine torches over the clip many here mod lights for a better clip

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

I have decided: that I can't decide what I want :ohgeez:

 

[bluemax_1]

I have decided: that I can't decide what I want :ohgeez:

You're on CPF. There's a simple solution for that; BUY ONE OF EACH! :)

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

You're on CPF. There's a simple solution for that; BUY ONE OF EACH! :)

Do you moonlight as a psychic!?? :D


Sent from my iPhone.

 

[DTF]

The best choice, for extreme durablity, would be a McGizmo 1xAA, Haiku. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...single-cell-converter)-addition-to-the-series

Nothing else mentioned so far comes close to the durability of the McGizmo lights. Ti body and head, sapphire lens, water proof, corrosion proof. No aluminum flashlight is going to be corrosion proof. No other flashlight has a sapphire lens. Basically indestructible ti clip. (Note: I suggest always getting the clip version with a 1/4"-20 tapped mounting hole and a McGizmo coiled tether, of course)

So, if you're really looking for a flashlight with no compromises in design or materials, McGizmo is the one choice.

 

[BenChiew]

The best choice, for extreme durablity, would be a McGizmo 1xAA, Haiku. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...single-cell-converter)-addition-to-the-series

Nothing else mentioned so far comes close to the durability of the McGizmo lights. Ti body and head, sapphire lens, water proof, corrosion proof. No aluminum flashlight is going to be corrosion proof. No other flashlight has a sapphire lens. Basically indestructible ti clip. (Note: I suggest always getting the clip version with a 1/4"-20 tapped mounting hole and a McGizmo coiled tether, of course)

So, if you're really looking for a flashlight with no compromises in design or materials, McGizmo is the one choice.

If you can keep up with the cost then +1.
:)

 

[Dave D]

I've just got the Malkoff MD2 with High/Low with the M361 Drop-in.

Build quality is top notch, nicely finished with a high quality Hard Anodised 3 finish.

With the solid build quality, HA3 finish and potted Drop-in then this set up should be as reliable and robust as they come!

Combining the High/Low switch with the M361 give 6 different light output levels, from very low light to the maximum which is similar to a Surefire Fury.

With the M361 it will only run on a single 18650 battery as 2 x CR123's will be too high a voltage for this drop-in.

Have a look at the Malkoff Devices website and if there is a different drop-in that would meet your needs better then if you contact Gene he's likely to accommodate you, as he did with me when I requested the M361N in place of the M61 in the turnkey MD2 High/Low package. I just paid an extra $5 for my drop-in of choice.

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

I don't really understand the drop-ins and all that jazz, ive been to their website a few times and cant seem to grasp what exactly I am looking at/for. In the meantime I have an Eagletac GX25A3 in the mail with an Xtar VP1 charger and some 1900-2000mah 14500 Eneloops to get me started. I'm pretty set on grabbing an Armytek Viking Pro XM-L2. Is there any reason I would get the XP-G2 version over the XM-L2??

 

[TheSpicyTuna]

Anyway with these lights I will have a small, medium, and large light setup respectively with the EagleTac GX25A3, Armytek Viking, and then the Fenix RC40.

 

[Knight_Light]

Is there any reason I would get the XP-G2 version over the XM-L2??

If you want more throw and less flood get the XP-G2.