Feel jipped and haven't even received stuff yet...

[AndrewZorn]

I guess it's a suggestion thread just in case I'm doing something wrong again. I feel like most of the stuff I ordered just a month ago was a mistake after reading on here even MORE... not for research, but more or less in anticipation of my stuff getting here.

What I wanted was a good cheap host body, a really bright floody LED, 18650 batteries and charger. I was recently issued a 6P but it will not hold 18650s so I decided to just get another body.

I bought the DX MC-E P60 drop-in. Now I find out there really are P7 drop-ins... I can almost ignore this.

I got the WF-502B from DX also. Seemed like a 6P clone that would be compatible with all the standardized accessories etc. I just found out tonight that it is NOT and will not accept tailstanding clicky caps that I ordered, etc. Really disappointed with this because the body is what I was most excited about.

I got the GRAY 18650 Protected batteries. Now I find out I will likely need small magnets to make contact on the positive ends... really? I ordered some of these magnets from DX a long time ago but I currently do not have access to them. Must I order more? Oh, also, the BLUE ones are back in stock... everyone says they are better... of course, back in stock, I'm about to re-order, and I haven't even received my first shipment yet!

The R2 I ordered for my 6P, just to have, will likely be the crappy 'new' R2 drop-in that used to be good but is now only "120-140 lumens".

I'm thinking about the Solarforce L2. Is this a good light? Am I missing something? Basically I just want a GOOD body that will be fun for a couple of years and be able to accept commonplace accessories, extensions, etc.

Also, anyone know of some GOOD cheap tailstanding clicky caps? I'd like to get another, but looking for other options...

 

[Kid9P]

 

[fishx65]

Best advice is to spend a lot of time researching on this site before placing any orders. DX is very slow when it comes to shipping but I've always recieved everything I've ordered. The Solarforce L2 is a very solid host but I would make sure to purchase it from a fellow member (Jake).

 

[Kestrel]

I feel like most of the stuff I ordered just a month ago was a mistake after reading on here even MORE
[...]
anyone know of some GOOD cheap tailstanding clicky caps?

While these two sentences appear unrelated, part of the issue is in trying to purchase the cheapest stuff. In addition (and I hope I'm wrong), the cheap parts that you have purchased (the cells in particular) might give you problems down the road.

My suggestion, read more and order less. Also, check out Sgt. LED's signature line, which goes something like: I wish I would have simply purchased a SureFire C3 & a Surefire clicky tailcap the first time and not wasted so much time and money trying to go the cheap route.

Good luck,

 

[SFG2Lman]

i have a solarforce L2 and loved it to death when all I had to compare it to was the surefire G2 (plastic one) they seemed rather comparable. Then...I ordered a 6P that was bored out from this thread and I am blown away by every detail, from the smoothness of the threads, to the better thermal capacity. I would recommend getting a bored surefire light if you want something compatible and long lasting. (I still use solarforce just as much, but the quality is much different.)

 

[bansuri]

My suggestion, read more and order less. Also, check out Sgt. LED's signature line, which goes something like: I wish I would have simply purchased a SureFire C3 & a Surefire clicky tailcap the first time and not wasted so much time and money trying to go the cheap route.

Good luck,

There is so much good advice in those sentences, i think Kestrel's suggestion should go hand-in-hand with Sgt. LED's sig.

I'd also like to add that it's worth your time to join the marketplace, there are some great deals on there. Most flashaholics treat their lights like fine china so the stuff that winds up on CPFMarketplace looks pretty good.

 

[nfetterly]

I ordered from DX was, price was cheap (so was what I received).

I've "rented" (bought & subsequently sold) lots of lights on the marketplace & the custom lights section. Lots of pieces / parts available in the market place. Bored 6Ps, C2s etc in the custom area. The nice thing about it - if you don't like it just resell it. Of course you can do that with what you bought on DX as well.

Moddoo made some GREAT triple LED P60 drop ins
Nailbender makes some very nice single LED drop ins, multiple level if you want it.

The 2 above (Moddoo isn't making them now) made them basically to order, very nice.

Netkidz makes very nice clicky conversion for SF tailcaps.

Lots of great stuff available.

 

[DimeRazorback]

You should of saved for a bored 6P, a malkoff M60F and AW 18650's

You will probably end up getting these one day anyway :nana:

 

[AndrewZorn]

Lots of good advice here... maybe I should just get a bored 6P body or bore my existing 6P? It just seems like for the same price I could get an L2, and use a Surefire-compatible clicky cap like I would have to get anyway. so basically the only quality differences would be finish and threads...

 

[Zatoichi]

I have three L2's, an L2M and a 6P, and the L2's get more use. With a Solarforce forward clicky tailcap (the one with built in grip ring) and UCL lens, the 18650 L2 is one of my favourite lights. Can't remember what drop-in's in it at the moment, I think it's one of the older DX R2's but the newer ones aren't that bad. I hear the 'regulation' is not so good, but I tend not to notice this as I keep the battery topped up. The difference in brightness from the older ones isn't that noticeable.

 

[ptolemy]

I guess it's a suggestion thread just in case I'm doing something wrong again. I feel like most of the stuff I ordered just a month ago was a mistake after reading on here even MORE... not for research, but more or less in anticipation of my stuff getting here.

What I wanted was a good cheap host body, a really bright floody LED, 18650 batteries and charger. I was recently issued a 6P but it will not hold 18650s so I decided to just get another body.

I bought the DX MC-E P60 drop-in. Now I find out there really are P7 drop-ins... I can almost ignore this.

I got the WF-502B from DX also. Seemed like a 6P clone that would be compatible with all the standardized accessories etc. I just found out tonight that it is NOT and will not accept tailstanding clicky caps that I ordered, etc. Really disappointed with this because the body is what I was most excited about.

I got the GRAY 18650 Protected batteries. Now I find out I will likely need small magnets to make contact on the positive ends... really? I ordered some of these magnets from DX a long time ago but I currently do not have access to them. Must I order more? Oh, also, the BLUE ones are back in stock... everyone says they are better... of course, back in stock, I'm about to re-order, and I haven't even received my first shipment yet!

The R2 I ordered for my 6P, just to have, will likely be the crappy 'new' R2 drop-in that used to be good but is now only "120-140 lumens".

I'm thinking about the Solarforce L2. Is this a good light? Am I missing something? Basically I just want a GOOD body that will be fun for a couple of years and be able to accept commonplace accessories, extensions, etc.

Also, anyone know of some GOOD cheap tailstanding clicky caps? I'd like to get another, but looking for other options...

I know exactly how you feel! I am also coupled with another problems: my hands grow outta my butt, so I cannot 'mod' anything, or afraid to, even if it's a simply drop in!

I totally understand what you mean and that there are always things that are faster or brighter or better option for longer running...

My other issue is some of these higher cost custom lights. I love how they look and I understand it's party tool, party work of 'art', but I just cannot understand enough about them to get it.

So, when you say you had to buy many things to get it going and them coming from asia, make it cumbersome!

What I recommend is the following: Have things that you NEED to have in flashlight (certain output, certain runtime, (combination of both), support certain battery, certain clicky features) and then contact one of the custom builders and see what they recommend.

It might cost tad more but then you will know that you getting what you want, how you want it, and it will work without having to order other parts and make compromises!

 

[Search]

The best policy is to save a little bit longer for something a little bit better from somewhere a little bit more reliable.

Unless of course budget is set and cannot be changed except for winning the lottery.

I've been through many lights, have been laid off for much of the past two years, barely drew unemployment, am having a baby while trying to move out, and work at a factory off and on while trying to pay my bills.

If I can save up the money for the lights I have, from one of the most expensive companies, then I believe most can do it I just know that my larger investment will pay for itself in not needing to purchase anything else but batteries for quite some time.

 

[AndrewZorn]

I understand what everyone is getting at.

The L2 seems to be the right choice, paired with GOOD batteries (which I probably won't spring for) and a high-quality drop-in (again, I'll try my DX luck, which has been very high so far)... should make a very nice flashlight.

For $15 I can get the body from Ebay and for $25 I can get another R2. I would hope that it is better but I have a feeling if DX has crappier ones now and these also ship from China and this one is INCLUDED in a light, that there isn't much reason to think it would be better and consequently not worth the extra $10 (which can, while well-informed, get a GOOD R2 from DX).

$15 to make me stop worrying and fix most of my mistakes...

I feel like I can't NOT do it. So many people love the body. I would love the WF-502B but the Surefire compatibility is the reason I ordered it...

Off to Ebay? Any last words?

EDIT the L2 comes with a clicky switch... lawdy... wish it was recessed for tail-stand (WHY am I the only one that thinks this is so cool?), but that's cheaper than most clickies by THEMSELVES. Ordering now. Just wish I thought of this a month ago... in addition to saving money, I'd also have it sooner than a month out... you think HK Post is bad, add APO handling time to Iraq...

EDIT I may come across as ready-to-spend and uncareful, but I assure you, I have spent many hours each day for several WEEKS now just trying to figure out what to get. How I missed details like the WF-502B, I do not know. I have just recently started to POST here and most definitely have been reading on this site since before I ever decided to actually start the semi-DIY project.

And for the money thing... it's not so much for me as whether or not I have the money, I just like to get the best FOR the money for whatever league I'm shooting for. I do have other expensive hobbies (computers: I have spent more on a single fan... they do get really nice... than I have a lot of these flashlight parts. especially liquid cooling, it's like you are doing the plumbing for a millionaire 2ft tall person, just a handful of fittings [that suit my particular tastes] costs more than this flashlight so far).

I'm sure I'll be HAPPY with even the MC-E in the 502, this whole thing took off when I got my 6P, and it was awesome, and knowing that it's only maybe 60 lumens and that whiter, cooler LEDs doing 300+ exist... well, I don't have to explain it here.

 

[Norm]

The L2 seems to be the right choice, paired with GOOD batteries (which I probably won't spring for) and a high-quality drop-in (again, I'll try my DX luck, which has been very high so far)... should make a very nice flashlight.

You would be better off to buy an L2 here Solarforce Lights
Norm

 

[AndrewZorn]

I meant DX drop-ins,
but what's wrong with Ebay for the L2? They are $5 less there. Black body, rear clicky, and head with assault crown and nothing else (just needs drop-in, which by now I have plenty of) is $15.

 

[lightmyway]

Any last words, Check the Marketplace for Solarforce lights,Knowledgeable dealer great service.

 

[AndrewZorn]

I looked briefly earlier, after 3 pages didn't see anything that cost less than brand new including shipping. I know it's hard to beat China on that one.

 

[jake25]

SB10 = 10% off, am I allowed to post this

 

[Illum]

I guess it's a suggestion thread just in case I'm doing something wrong again. I feel like most of the stuff I ordered just a month ago was a mistake after reading on here even MORE... not for research, but more or less in anticipation of my stuff getting here.

What I wanted was a good cheap host body, a really bright floody LED, 18650 batteries and charger. I was recently issued a 6P but it will not hold 18650s so I decided to just get another body.

I bought the DX MC-E P60 drop-in. Now I find out there really are P7 drop-ins... I can almost ignore this.

I got the WF-502B from DX also. Seemed like a 6P clone that would be compatible with all the standardized accessories etc. I just found out tonight that it is NOT and will not accept tailstanding clicky caps that I ordered, etc. Really disappointed with this because the body is what I was most excited about.

I got the GRAY 18650 Protected batteries. Now I find out I will likely need small magnets to make contact on the positive ends... really? I ordered some of these magnets from DX a long time ago but I currently do not have access to them. Must I order more? Oh, also, the BLUE ones are back in stock... everyone says they are better... of course, back in stock, I'm about to re-order, and I haven't even received my first shipment yet!

The R2 I ordered for my 6P, just to have, will likely be the crappy 'new' R2 drop-in that used to be good but is now only "120-140 lumens".

sounds like a bad case of DX again...:shrug:

 

[waddup]

i buy only complete lights because its already modded together and working.

ive picked up a few customs.

when your stuff eventually arrives you can sell it and buy something you really want.

youll probably only lose 20%.