Fenix L1D CE-Q5 vs. L1T v2.0-Q2

[this_is_nascar]

I really don't care for the unreliable nature of the NDI, so I started poking around on the Fenix site and noticed these (2) 1 x AA based lights. I was not very successful in my searching to understand the difference between the lights. I'd be running either of these on Energizer E2 cells. Can someone comment on the differences between the (2) lights?

 

[Marduke]

First off, one uses a Q2 and the other Q5, but I am fairly certain you already knew that.

The L1D had a reverse clicky, the L1T has a forward clicky (as currently sold by Fenix-Store, some dealers might still sell reverse clicky type)


L1T:
When the head it loose, the light operates as a single mode light in one mode, the low mode. No combination of switch pressing will get you any other modes.

When the head is tight, the light again operates in one mode, high mode. This is similar to how the NDI operates. Depending on what position the head is in, you have one of two modes with a forward clicky.


L1D:
When the head is loose, you are in "general mode". Turn the light on and it is in low. A soft press advances the levels from low > medium > high > SOS. There is no memory, leave the light off for a couple seconds and it will always turn back on in low mode.

When the head is tight, you are in "turbo mode". Turn the light on and it's in turbo. A soft press advances the levels from turbo to strobe. Those are the only two settings in this mode. No memory setting, it will come on in turbo by default.


For both lights, there is no complicated twisting of the head back and forth to get different modes. Think of the L1D as a regular multi-mode light where you have to soft press to get your different modes, but it has two different menus. The position of the head determines if you are using a 2-mode light, or a 4 mode light.

 

[kitelights]

Marduke - very nice detailed explanation.

Ray - I'm burned out on too many modes on multi-mode lights. I've got a L1D standard that I'm selling to friends, because I don't carry it - too many modes. If the turbo was a high and low and came on low, I'd reconsider.

I've got a couple of the not current L1T v2s and I like them. The complaints about them were reverse clicky (which I don't care about) and the fact that low wasn't low enough compared to high. I haven't seen the new one, but the specs seem to have addressed the low issue. In fact, I'm waiting for a review and I might upgrade to the new one just for that reason.

 

[LED-holic]

hi TIN - can you expand on your experience with the NDI in terms of its reliability?

 

[smg]

...and the fact that low wasn't low enough compared to high. I haven't seen the new one, but the specs seem to have addressed the low issue...

Really?? The new spec states 16 lumens for low. The old spec states 15 lumens for low. It seems that the new one has a low setting that is brighter than the old one, right? Maybe there is something I don't know.

 

[this_is_nascar]

First off, one uses a Q2 and the other Q5, but I am fairly certain you already knew that.

The L1D had a reverse clicky, the L1T has a forward clicky (as currently sold by Fenix-Store, some dealers might still sell reverse clicky type)


L1T:
When the head it loose, the light operates as a single mode light in one mode, the low mode. No combination of switch pressing will get you any other modes.

When the head is tight, the light again operates in one mode, high mode. This is similar to how the NDI operates. Depending on what position the head is in, you have one of two modes with a forward clicky.


L1D:
When the head is loose, you are in "general mode". Turn the light on and it is in low. A soft press advances the levels from low > medium > high > SOS. There is no memory, leave the light off for a couple seconds and it will always turn back on in low mode.

When the head is tight, you are in "turbo mode". Turn the light on and it's in turbo. A soft press advances the levels from turbo to strobe. Those are the only two settings in this mode. No memory setting, it will come on in turbo by default.


For both lights, there is no complicated twisting of the head back and forth to get different modes. Think of the L1D as a regular multi-mode light where you have to soft press to get your different modes, but it has two different menus. The position of the head determines if you are using a 2-mode light, or a 4 mode light.

Thanks. I appreciate it. Do you know if the forward-clicky of the L1T will fit and function on the L1D? Also, do you know if there are any immediate plans of getting a Q5 version of the L1T?

 

[this_is_nascar]

Marduke - very nice detailed explanation.

Ray - I'm burned out on too many modes on multi-mode lights. I've got a L1D standard that I'm selling to friends, because I don't carry it - too many modes. If the turbo was a high and low and came on low, I'd reconsider.

I've got a couple of the not current L1T v2s and I like them. The complaints about them were reverse clicky (which I don't care about) and the fact that low wasn't low enough compared to high. I haven't seen the new one, but the specs seem to have addressed the low issue. In fact, I'm waiting for a review and I might upgrade to the new one just for that reason.

Thanks. I'll have to do some more reading-up on each it sounds.

 

[this_is_nascar]

hi TIN - can you expand on your experience with the NDI in terms of its reliability?

Well, I really don't want this thread to go down the NDI path (shame on me for mentioning it), but both of my NDI lights are junk. It's a shame too, but I like the light. One lost all modes but high, and that other is going down the same path by have an inconsistent activation on low. Yes, I cleaned, checked, cleaned, checked, lubed and re-lubed everything.

 

[LED-holic]

Thanks TIN. This is helpful for those of us who are thinking about forking $80 over for the NDI. I've come to a general conclusion the money is better spent on the L1D and the Jet-I IBS...

 

[Solstice]

I have the new L2T (same light with a 2AA tube) and I'm thinking of getting the 1AA tube for it. Just wanted to throw in a recommedation for this line of lights to anyone who is looking for a very simple and fast operating EDC. The forward switch is absolutely perfect so far, and its quite refreshing to be able to gently trigger light when needed, let the light go off whenever it's not needed, and not worry about switching modes in the process. I'm not sure about how the brightness would be on 1AA- I'm sure "low" would be a good general use level (just keep in mind that's its not a true low low). High with 2AA is brilliant, perhaps 1AA could keep pace but with shorter runtime.

TIN- if you do pull the trigger on one of these, I'd love to see one of your famous runtime graphs.

 

[swxb12]

I don't know about the Q2, but the RB80 version of the L1T v2 has an amazing runtime around 2hr 46min on one 26xx mAh NiMH according to a test SelfBuilt conducted in the reviews forum.

As mentioned the L1T low isn't very well, low. It's bright enough to be a general use, primary mode depending on the person. I really like the forward clicky module that Fenix uses. Hopefully the quality and build remains on par at the very least.

 

[Marduke]

Yes, the LxT forward clicky does fit the L1D/L2D. It makes the modes interesting to use, but it does fit and work.

 

[selfbuilt]

I don't know about the Q2, but the RB80 version of the L1T v2 has an amazing runtime around 2hr 46min on one 26xx mAh NiMH according to a test SelfBuilt conducted in the reviews forum.

You'll find all the detail runtimes here:
Fenix Rebel vs Cree: L1D/L1T/P2D OUTPUT, RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS!

I don't know how the new LxT v2 with Q2 will perform, but I suspect it will be closer to the the LxD-Q2 than the RB080 version.

As for Energizer L91 lithiums, I did L1D-Q5 hi mode runtimes in my NDI review. As you'll see, runtime on max are a bit better than 2650mAh NiMH.

P.S.: In terms of reliability, both my NDIs have been solid performers - I've been EDCing one or the other since I received them, no problems in either yet. Of course, YMMV, but that's true of all lights ...

 

[NA8]

I've got the rb80 and the Q2 LxTv2. The low modes are almost identical to my eye. I like their low level, but people who want 1-5 lumens should get an adjustable light like the Novatac or NDI.

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

Like NA8, I have the rb80 and Q2 L1T v2.0. I have to say that the Q2 is absolutely one of my favorite lights. I like the (new) forward clicky, it's much firmer than the forward clicky on the rebel version. The simple interface is nice and the tint on mine is very nice. It also has very nice brightness for a 1xAA light. 4.5/5.0 would be my rating. The only thing it needs is some knurling for grip! :twothumbs

 

[paulr]

I had an L1DCE and sold it immediately. It worked fine but I didn't like it. It just felt cheap, the pushbutton was too small and wobbled too much, and I didn't like the two position twist bezel, and I find the blinking modes to be a useless annoyance. By comparison the earlier L1P (the light that gave Fenix its huge initial splash here on CPF) was great. The L1T tries to move back towards a simpler design, just two levels, but I still feel a little put off by having the twist bezel separate from the on-off pushbutton. I'd rather have a pure twisty design like the HDS/Ra Twisty or a pure pushbutton like the Proton Pro. But truthfully, in a 1aa light I think I'd rather keep it even simpler and have just one level. I wish Fenix would bring back the L1P but with a high flux Cree, or make a 1-level twist version. I also like the Peak Pacific with the 1aa pocket body.

 

[nanotech17]

close example - the P2D Q5 on the left vs the P2D P4 on the right

 

[pae77]

I, on the other hand, absolutely love the multi modes on the L1D CE and gave away my original L1P to my father who probably appreciates the simplicity of the L1P.

I use the low about 80% of the time, except when outdoors, and find great value in having that low mode which will give me approx 20 to 25 hours of runtime out of a 1 x AA light. For me that makes it an emergency lantern in a very small package. I frequently use it on low in candlestick mode to provide low level ambient room lighting for hours at a time.

 

[Solstice]

I had an L1DCE and sold it immediately. It worked fine but I didn't like it. It just felt cheap, the pushbutton was too small and wobbled too much, and I didn't like the two position twist bezel, and I find the blinking modes to be a useless annoyance. By comparison the earlier L1P (the light that gave Fenix its huge initial splash here on CPF) was great. The L1T tries to move back towards a simpler design, just two levels, but I still feel a little put off by having the twist bezel separate from the on-off pushbutton. I'd rather have a pure twisty design like the HDS/Ra Twisty or a pure pushbutton like the Proton Pro. But truthfully, in a 1aa light I think I'd rather keep it even simpler and have just one level. I wish Fenix would bring back the L1P but with a high flux Cree, or make a 1-level twist version. I also like the Peak Pacific with the 1aa pocket body.

I don't have the L1D CE, but I can assure you that the switch on the L1/2T is excellent and doesn't feel cheap IMO. I can't say I agree that a one stage only 1AA would do it for me, but I find a simple hi and low good enough. I would like to see a 1AA twisty that works like the old Fireflys or more recent lights by Endeavor- that is, twist a little for low, all the way for high.