Fenix P3D and P1D-CE Review

[Green Lantern]

Edit-- (title should read P1-CE, not P1D-CE)
My son and I are first time owners of Fenix flashlights and wanted to write this review to let others know what our impressions are so far. I have owned the Fenix P3D Premium Q5 for about a week and my son has owned the Fenix P1-CE for about two weeks. They are both, by far the most powerful flashlights either of us have ever owned. Although my 14-year-old son does not have any complaints about his P1-CE, I have a few regarding the P3D.

First of all, I personally find most of the non-turbo modes on the P3D, except the highest general mode, disappointing. As a cyclist, commuting home after dark, I would not want to rely on anything but turbo or high, to make it safely home. And I certainly would not want to ever rely on the lowest output mode, which is a measly 9 lumens. If I wanted to use a 9 lumen flashlight I could have blown off the fenix and kept using my old mini mag light. The same goes for the S.O.S. mode. It's just pointless for us urban commuters and means you have to push the button a few extra times to get to where you want to be.

Secondly, the P3D allegedly throws off 215 lumens in turbo mode. That claim seems over-optimistic. To me the turbo mode of the P3D appears to be virtually indistinguishable from the brightness, throw, and intensity of the Fenix P1-CE, which is stated to be 90 lumens. Check out the photos below and tell me what you think. Also as a side note, I went on a night walk with my father last night and we compared my P3D to his 100 lumen Inova T3, and again they were substantially similar. I have posted some photos of these comparisons as well. Tell me if you agree or disagree.
Finally, my last gripe is about the limited length of time the P3D will perform on turbo mode and high mode. I have tried two different rechargeable batteries, both purchased from dealextreme.com. One was a set of 1000mAh dark green, 17335, generic, rechargeable cr123a batteries, and the other was Soshine 650 mAh cr123a rechargeable batteries. The P3D will run on turbo or high for about 10-15 minutes before it starts to intensely flicker. The beam will stay turbo bright or high, and retain a good throw (despite the intense flickering) for about another 10 minutes, and then it peters out to something MUCH less than the P1-CE. I'm just guessing but I bet it fades to about the lowest setting with is a 9 lumen output. The Soshines also performed really poorly in the P1-CE.

I'd also like to mention some positive aspects of the flashlight. When I used some non rechareable, 3 volt, lithium, Ultralast batteries, the P3D lasted on turbo for 67 minutes, which is enough time to get me home on my evening bicycle commute. But who wants to use non rechargeable batteries every night? Also the beam on the P3D, when set on high or turbo mode, really is awesome. And on strobe mode it puts out enough eye piercing lumens to get any driver's attention. Along those same lines the P1-CE also casts an awesome beam. As stated previously, the beam is almost indistinguishable from the P3D, and it completely holds its own with the P3D at about half its size and about half its weight. Check out the one photograph showing that the P1-CE is about equal to the size of my son's thumb, and (if desired) could fit on a key chain perfectly.

We bought our rechargeable cr123a batteries and an UltraFire charger from DealExtreme.com. I should let you know that one set we bought, some dark green, 350 mAh generic, 17340, rechargeable cr123a batteries would NOT fit into the P3D, but did fit fine into the P1-CE. Also, the UltraFire battery recharger, although useful and good for the price, seems very low quality. The switch that changes the charging output from 3v to 3.6v is jammed and seems to be potentially stuck on the 3v setting. Although you can physically move the switch I am not sure if it has any affect on the charger settings.

Now please check out the photos and let me know if you have any solutions for me to keep the P3D running for maximum time on maximum lumens on rechargeable batteries. Thanks!

 

[jugg2]

IMHO I can see a very noticable difference in the pictures. The P3D is definately brighter than the rest of them. In person it may look different though. I have a P2D, and I use the low/medium modes a lot. They are usually bright enough for anything I am doing, and they conserve battery life as well. YMMV

 

[lightfet]

Try shinning at tree 100 feet or more you will definitely notice the P3D light up object further away than the P1 CE.

I use the low & medium mode alot, bright enough around the house.

 

[alfablue]

Although I see your frustration with the low mode when you intend to use the light for cycling, I find the multiple modes very useful. Often for close up work low is all you need, and it avoids glare. Although you anticipate predominantly one use, I am sure there will be times where the versatility pays off.

I have an L2D CE Q5, allegedly 180 lumens rather than the 225 of yours, but I find on High (not turbo) it is more than good enough for my 90 minute commute on an entirely unlit railway path. On High I get 4.5 hours from 2 2700 NiMH AA's, on turbo, about 2 hours. There is no flashing, it just dims at about 2 minutes to the end of run-time.

I am also happy to have SOS and strobe modes, I occasionally go walking in the Welsh mountains and the SOS could be a life saver one day! (We had a close call last time when one of our group sustained an ankle injury - fortunately we got down before dark, but the SOS would have surely been a great help if mountain rescue was required). In addition, the low and medium modes with the Fenix diffuser make for an excellent and long lasting camping light.

I am unfamiliar with using CR123a flashlights, but I wonder if AA give longer run times.

 

[Gunner12]

The cheap rechargeable batteries are probably at fault for the short runtime on high and turbo.

This chart shows that the P3D should run for an hour on turbo before the batteries quit.

The P3D does seem brighter. The T3 also has a bigger reflector or a good optic(depending on which version your friend has) which could account for the throw. The P3D should have more overall output.

Good review.

 

[EntropyQ3]

I have an L2D CE Q5, allegedly 180 lumens rather than the 225 of yours, but I find on High (not turbo) it is more than good enough for my 90 minute commute on an entirely unlit railway path. On High I get 4.5 hours from 2 2700 NiMH AA's, on turbo, about 2 hours. There is no flashing, it just dims at about 2 minutes to the end of run-time.

alfablue, how is your L2D holding up vs biking use? Do you use it attached to the handlebar? If so, how do you attach it? I'm looking to buy a pair of L2Ds for me and my wife for use as biking lights using Fenix holders, but I fear a bit for their longevity under such use.

Green Lantern, as far as I can see, the P3D gives you a stronger light even as it is. For powering, I would recommend AWs high current protected RCR123s - they should provide you with an hour and a half or so at full blast, and their high current oomph will provide you with as bright a light as the P3D will provide. You can use your existing charger with his cells.

 

[flashy bazook]

The Fenix store and also Lighthound and maybe Fenix tactical have Fenix handlebar attachments that you can use to attach Fenix flashlights onto your bike.

You could use two of them for your bike, plus two flashlights, a more flexible as well as more powerful arrangement.

The 2xAA formfactor (the L2D) should last longer for you and using high capacity NiMH rechargeables should give you well over 2 hrs if you are having trouble with the RC123A's (which indeed are much lower capacity, say 800 vs 2700). Put two of these babies on your bike and you are set to go!

 

[Kippers]

Green Lantern,

The Fenix P3D is a great light. Turbo should not be used unless absolutely necessary because of the decrease in runtime for only some increase in brightness. Low, Med., High are the way to go for most purposes. I like the L,M,H on the Fenix precisely because you have three distinct choices for beam brightness. The P3D's low is exactly what many people want for close reading, inspection, or other late night duties requiring a lower beam than offered on some other lights. I don't have a bike, but the high beam is great for trail hiking at night and the medium is good enough for around camp. Having the SOS in the L,M,H mode is much less distracting than the strobe, which is found in the Turbo mode sequence.
Your lack of reasonable run time is the fault of the batteries you bought. I bought the dark green generic 1000mah 17335 3V Li-ion battery because I thought the reduced diameter would work better in my P3D battery tube. This rechargeable had terrible runtime in my light. The Soshine may be of no better quality than the green generic. I now have several P3D's and the inside diameter of the battery tube does vary some from light to light.
A rechargeable battery that I would highly recommend for your P3D is the Tenergy 900mah RCR123a 3.0V from Battery Junction. Get the four battery with 3.0V charger package. The charger does two batteries at a time and has worked flawlessly for me. The Tenergy 3.0V batteries seem to be a little smaller in diameter than many other rechargeables and I have been able to fit them in all but one of my P3D's with no problem. Their diameter varies so they may not all fit. I have quite a few so I use the smaller ones in the smaller tubed lights. When all else fails I strip off the blue outer wrapper exposing a clear wrapper beneath ( be careful not to damage this one last layer of insulation). I have not done any runtime tests with this battery, but it seems quite reasonble in use and makes the green generics seem like they are defective (all four of them). As others have mentioned AW's RCR123a 3.7V is a quality choice. The newer version with Black wrapper is smaller in diameter with greater output than previous offerings. Since the P3D has a buck circuit it can use the extra voltage of the 3.7V rechargeables for greater runtime I have read.
The Tenergy 900mah 3.0V has worked great in this light and many others, so you should give it or the AW's a try before you give up on the P3D.

 

[patycake57]

In my opinion, the performace of the 3V batteries is considerably lower (30%-guestamate). I believe the reason is that these batteries either use a different chemistry which has less energy density (LiPO4) or electrical means to reduce the voltage which takes space and results in a loss of efficiency.

It looks like the 17335 may be a LiPO4, which is safer, but with less energy capacity than a regular Li-Ion. The 1000 mAh is likely to be 2 fold optimistic. The 3V setting on the ultrafire charger should be ok.
The 3V Soshine batteries that I saw on DX look like the voltage is reduced electronically. Most other batteries like that (Tenergy 900) require a 4.4V charger to get full capacity. Also, it is not protected, so overdischarge can be potentially dangerous. If you are charging it on your ultrafire 3V setting (3.6V target, I believe), the Soshine's would be quite undercharged.

I would recommend AW batteries sold by AW on CPFM, fenix-store, lighthound, others? I believe they are recognized for excellent quality. Also, their size best approximates a normal CR123 in my limited testing (compared with Ultrafire or Trustfires from DX). They fit very well into my P3D.

 

[Kippers]

The Tenergy 900mah is protected from overdischarge. The Tenergy 3.0V charger(or equivalent) is required to charge the cell. It charges at 4.4VDC @ 360ma. The batteries come off the charger at approximately 4.08 - 4.09V. I believe that the voltage is reduced electronically to 3.0V within Xmilliseconds after startup. The battery's overdischage protection works reliably shutting down the light at just below 3.0V.

 

[Green Lantern]

The cheap rechargeable batteries are probably at fault for the short runtime on high and turbo.

I hope you're right! And thanks for the link.

 

[Green Lantern]

Great advice. I just ordered them.

 

[Green Lantern]

Green Lantern,

The Fenix P3D is a great light. Turbo should not be used unless absolutely necessary because of the decrease in runtime for only some increase in brightness. Low, Med., High are the way to go for most purposes. I like the L,M,H on the Fenix precisely because you have three distinct choices for beam brightness. The P3D's low is exactly what many people want for close reading, inspection, or other late night duties requiring a lower beam than offered on some other lights. I don't have a bike, but the high beam is great for trail hiking at night and the medium is good enough for around camp. Having the SOS in the L,M,H mode is much less distracting than the strobe, which is found in the Turbo mode sequence.
Your lack of reasonable run time is the fault of the batteries you bought. I bought the dark green generic 1000mah 17335 3V Li-ion battery because I thought the reduced diameter would work better in my P3D battery tube. This rechargeable had terrible runtime in my light. The Soshine may be of no better quality than the green generic. I now have several P3D's and the inside diameter of the battery tube does vary some from light to light.
A rechargeable battery that I would highly recommend for your P3D is the Tenergy 900mah RCR123a 3.0V from Battery Junction. Get the four battery with 3.0V charger package. The charger does two batteries at a time and has worked flawlessly for me. The Tenergy 3.0V batteries seem to be a little smaller in diameter than many other rechargeables and I have been able to fit them in all but one of my P3D's with no problem. Their diameter varies so they may not all fit. I have quite a few so I use the smaller ones in the smaller tubed lights. When all else fails I strip off the blue outer wrapper exposing a clear wrapper beneath ( be careful not to damage this one last layer of insulation). I have not done any runtime tests with this battery, but it seems quite reasonble in use and makes the green generics seem like they are defective (all four of them). As others have mentioned AW's RCR123a 3.7V is a quality choice. The newer version with Black wrapper is smaller in diameter with greater output than previous offerings. Since the P3D has a buck circuit it can use the extra voltage of the 3.7V rechargeables for greater runtime I have read.
The Tenergy 900mah 3.0V has worked great in this light and many others, so you should give it or the AW's a try before you give up on the P3D.

Kippers, Thanks for the advice. I hope your wrong about turbo mode, because I'm really hoping when the AWs arrive I'll be able to have them fully power a turbo mode home on my evening bicycle commute which lasts a little under one hour.

 

[Green Lantern]

In my opinion, the performace of the 3V batteries is considerably lower (30%-guestamate). I believe the reason is that these batteries either use a different chemistry which has less energy density (LiPO4) or electrical means to reduce the voltage which takes space and results in a loss of efficiency.

It looks like the 17335 may be a LiPO4, which is safer, but with less energy capacity than a regular Li-Ion. The 1000 mAh is likely to be 2 fold optimistic. The 3V setting on the ultrafire charger should be ok.
The 3V Soshine batteries that I saw on DX look like the voltage is reduced electronically. Most other batteries like that (Tenergy 900) require a 4.4V charger to get full capacity. Also, it is not protected, so overdischarge can be potentially dangerous. If you are charging it on your ultrafire 3V setting (3.6V target, I believe), the Soshine's would be quite undercharged.

I would recommend AW batteries sold by AW on CPFM, fenix-store, lighthound, others? I believe they are recognized for excellent quality. Also, their size best approximates a normal CR123 in my limited testing (compared with Ultrafire or Trustfires from DX). They fit very well into my P3D.

:twothumbs

 

[paulr]

Re: Fenix P3D and P1-CE Review

Fixing thread title. The P1CE is my favorite Fenix. The digital versions, not so much. I think you can also update the title in the first post to make it show properly at the top of the screen.

 

[alfablue]

alfablue, how is your L2D holding up vs biking use? Do you use it attached to the handlebar? If so, how do you attach it? I'm looking to buy a pair of L2Ds for me and my wife for use as biking lights using Fenix holders, but I fear a bit for their longevity under such use.

I am using one L2D CE Q5 with a Twofish Lockblock - this is a rubber and velcro handlebar mount. On the path it works fine, but off road I can see that it would be prone to movement, though I think this could be prevented with some some sort of rubber sleeving on the bar. The Fenix bike mount is much more secure, but it takes up a bit more handlebar space, and costs more than twice the amount (and my bars are pretty full with the Dinotte and my bike computer). I also use a Dinotte 5w ultra, but I have found just the Fenix to be plenty bright enough on high. I think the Fenix and Lockblock seem sufficiently durable for my use, though I am in my first month using it. I am just amazed with the amount of runtime and illumination I get with just 2 AA cells (twice the runtime of the Dinotte, more illumination with just the high mode, half the number of batteries, less than half the price!!!).

I think two on the bars will offer you fantastic illumination. You could try the lockblock and maybe upgrade to the Fenix holder if you find it insecure - I think that will depend mostly on the type of terrain you are riding on. One advantage with the lockblock is that it will fit on the helmet too, depending on the particular vent design you have (it wont fit on my Met Anaxagore because the vents are across the helmet, but it will on my Giro Ionos that has more conventional in-line vents). You could have one on the bars and one onthe helmet maybe.

 

[Green Lantern]

I am using one L2D CE Q5 with a Twofish Lockblock - . . . . .You could have one on the bars and one onthe helmet maybe.

I'm using the Twofish bikeblock (purchased at fenix)
https://www.fenix-store.com/advance...cf6c2d26a42a7677f418dacc268b5&keywords=helmet
as a helmet mount.

 

[Green Lantern]

Hi. Just a quick update, especially as they relate to my complaint with battery run time issues. The cr123a AWs recently arrived and seem to hold a charge for a nice long time. No more complaints (for now). But I have not had an opportunity to do any long bicycle rides yet. When I do, I'll post updates.

 

[alfablue]

I am using one L2D CE Q5 with a Twofish Lockblock - this is a rubber and velcro handlebar mount. On the path it works fine, but off road I can see that it would be prone to movement, though I think this could be prevented with some some sort of rubber sleeving on the bar. The Fenix bike mount is much more secure, but it takes up a bit more handlebar space, and costs more than twice the amount (and my bars are pretty full with the Dinotte and my bike computer). I also use a Dinotte 5w ultra, but I have found just the Fenix to be plenty bright enough on high. I think the Fenix and Lockblock seem sufficiently durable for my use, though I am in my first month using it. I am just amazed with the amount of runtime and illumination I get with just 2 AA cells (twice the runtime of the Dinotte, more illumination with just the high mode, half the number of batteries, less than half the price!!!).

I think two on the bars will offer you fantastic illumination. You could try the lockblock and maybe upgrade to the Fenix holder if you find it insecure - I think that will depend mostly on the type of terrain you are riding on. One advantage with the lockblock is that it will fit on the helmet too, depending on the particular vent design you have (it wont fit on my Met Anaxagore because the vents are across the helmet, but it will on my Giro Ionos that has more conventional in-line vents). You could have one on the bars and one onthe helmet maybe.

An update on bike mounts for Entropy: I just bought the Fenix branded bike mount, it fixes solidly to both the bars and the light, unfortunately the joint between the two halves (that permits you to rotate the light left/right) has rather a lot of play and it rattles. I referred back to the seller (The Photon Shop - superb service by the way!) and Rob said he had received a few complaints about this and is taking them off his site. He is sending me a Lockblock foc as a replacement (I can keep the Fenix - I may be able to bodge something to improve it). So I suspect there is a design flaw with these mounts, though you may be lucky, but Lockblocks may be the way to go.

 

[UnderDaHill]

You may find the following threads useful:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=184393

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=181470

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=184971 <- this tactical body from fenix will let you run three rcr123a rechargeables (or cr123a primaries) in your P3D for longer turbo run-times. I think I remember reading about 1.5 hours on turbo with 3 AW rcr123a cells, 2.5-3 hours with 3 primaries on turbo.

I am a bike commutor also. I'm running a Fenix L2D on my helmet and have a P3D on order that I'll be using on my bars. I plan to only use the P3D when riding in traffic in the dark, because I'll have the L2D in strobe mode in those situations. So I will be running the P3D with primary cells on High or turbo. At just around $4 per set of primaries, I don't think I'll run that light too often. If I ran it the whole time during my commute, I'd go through a set ever day. I should get about a week out of a set of primaries if I run it on high (4.8 hrs or so).

I thought about getting the tactical tube so I could run three AW RCR123 cells and get the run time I wanted. But since I'd have to recharge every night, I'd probably need 2 charges, and that was getting a bit pricey. So I just ordered panasonic CR123A cells from fenix.

Your pictures show a difference between the P3d and the P1/Inova T3. The P3D looks quite a bit brighter. Am I missing something?

For commuting and longer run times, I would suggest the L2D Q5 over the P3D. You'll get about 1.5-2 hours, as flashy mentioned, in turbo. You probably already have the cells and charger for AA's as well.

If you end up adding an FENIX L2D to your setup, this thread may be helful when picking batteries:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=79302

If your commutes are short and you don't burn through the AA's all in one shot or within a few days, you may want to lean towards eneloops. If you use them up almost completely each day, then the Sanyo 2700's seem to be the best bet.

Enjoy your lights, and ride safely.