Fenix PD30+2 vs. Quark 123x2

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Wilks132

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Aug 10, 2009
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Looking for input on these two lights. I have been researching them on here and pretty much know the UI's. However, I have never handled either. The Fenix is brand new, or at least the body is (im assuming the electronics are the same as the original PD30). Anyone running RCR123's in either of these? if so any problems? Protected or Unprotected??
 
I run a 17670 in my Quark 2x123 for excellent runtime but you can run RCR123's in it.
I run RCR123's in my Fenix P3D Q5 which is pretty much the same as the PD30's as do many other people on here.

These lights work fine on Li-Ion batteries.
 
Comparative beamshots would be cool to look at. I haven't seen beamshots of new PD30 anywhere yet.
 
Yup, both work fine with Li-ions according to what I read around here.

I'd recommend protected to prevent against over discharging and overcharging.
 
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I'm not surprised an 18650 does but I am surprised you can use 2 RCR123. That's a lot of voltage. Most 2 X CR123 :poof:

4sevens description of the Fenix PD30 does show that 2 RCR123 are compatible. However, is does not specify protected/unprotected (assuming protected). Basically I like both the new PD30 and the Quark 123x2. However, im tired of buying batteries. My new Nitecore EX10 can use protected RCR123's so the light that wins my primary light will go to the one that has the best output/runtime with RCR123's. I would like to get a car charger (Ultrafire) for the RCR123's so im never in the dark. Further, I have never handled either light. I like the heavy tank feeling torches. I love the feel of Surefires but think they are over priced. They are tanks for sure and I own many. My M3 Combat light just eats batteries for breakfast lunch and dinner and is not as bright as i would like it. (cant afford MilkySpit upgrades LOL). I just think they need to lower prices and step up the technology
 
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4sevens description of the Fenix PD30 does show that 2 RCR123 are compatible. However, is does not specify protected/unprotected (assuming protected). Basically I like both the new PD30 and the Quark 123x2. However, im tired of buying batteries. My new Nitecore EX10 can use protected RCR123's so the light that wins my primary light will go to the one that has the best output/runtime with RCR123's. I would like to get a car charger (Ultrafire) for the RCR123's so im never in the dark. Further, I have never handled either light. I like the heavy tank feeling torches. I love the feel of Surefires but think they are over priced. They are tanks for sure and I own many. My M3 Combat light just eats batteries for breakfast lunch and dinner and is not as bright as i would like it. (cant afford MilkySpit upgrades LOL). I just think they need to lower prices and step up the technology

4Sevens has a car plug available for the Ultrafire 139 charger.
http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=209
 
I know that 4sevens has tested the P3D circuit to 16v much higher then what the light would normally see. That's why there were 3 CR123 bodies for the P3D. The PD30 might be similar in that aspect, but I can't confirm.
 
But if you had to order one light (however, I will be ordering both just not at the same time) which would you get? I really like the idea of a "moonlight" mode. But the Fenix is supposed to have 235 lumens. Im sure its not that high OTF, but probably at least 200-210 im assuming.
 
But if you had to order one light (however, I will be ordering both just not at the same time) which would you get? I really like the idea of a "moonlight" mode. But the Fenix is supposed to have 235 lumens. Im sure its not that high OTF, but probably at least 200-210 im assuming.

I would get the Quark because it can run on a 17670 battery and has forward clickies available.

Fenix rates their lumens at the emitter and Quark rates theirs out the front of the lens so both lights are about the same brightness on max/turbo.
 
I would get the Quark because it can run on a 17670 battery and has forward clickies available.

Fenix rates their lumens at the emitter and Quark rates theirs out the front of the lens so both lights are about the same brightness on max/turbo.

So let me get this straight. If I get the Quark, I can purchase the Quark Tactical tailcap for it? Would the UI still operate? I was under the impression that the regular Quark 123x2 had a reverse clicky. A forward clicky would mean momentary operation mode. Wouldnt that screw up the UI?
 
The UI for mode selection would be different, but many people prefer it that way.

I would go with the Q123^2 for the slimmer design and 17670 compatibility (and the moon mode).
 
So let me get this straight. If I get the Quark, I can purchase the Quark Tactical tailcap for it? Would the UI still operate? I was under the impression that the regular Quark 123x2 had a reverse clicky. A forward clicky would mean momentary operation mode. Wouldnt that screw up the UI?

The regular Quarks come with a reverse clickie but will work with the forward clickie available as an accessory for $9.
http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_304&products_id=1647

Using the forward clickie on a regular Quark works like this: momentary press and release to change mode, fully click when desired mode is reached.
 
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So momentary isnt actually "momentary"? It only changes the mode from the off position. Say the light is clicked on in hi mode and I wanted to get to strobe, would I have to turn the light off and press momentary to get to it?
 
Momentary is still momentary, but you can't signal with it.

Once the light is clicked on, if you want to switch modes you click off and back on, and it will go to the next mode.
 
So momentary isnt actually "momentary"? It only changes the mode from the off position. Say the light is clicked on in hi mode and I wanted to get to strobe, would I have to turn the light off and press momentary to get to it?

Yes and no.

Forward clickie = press for momentary on and then click for constant on. Change modes by pressing momentarily and releasing or by clicking off and on.

Reverse clickie = click for constant on and press for momentary off. Change modes by clicking off and on or clicking on and pressing momentarily and releasing.


The Quark and PD30 have a reverse clickie. The "tactical" Quark has a forward clickie.

To change modes with a reverse clickie you click on and press to go into the next mode or you can click on and off and on. You cannot click off and press momentarily because nothing would happen. You can't have a reverse and forward clickie.
 
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The Mode switching is done in the driver of the light, not the switch portion. The mode changes when the driver detects a quick on-off-on sequence. Changing the talicap will not change how the driver switches modes.
 
The Mode switching is done in the driver of the light, not the switch portion. The mode changes when the driver detects a quick on-off-on sequence. Changing the talicap will not change how the driver switches modes.

You still have to use the tail cap the same as if the tail cap controlled it.
 
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