cryhavok
Enlightened
I like E1L's...always have...but I'm a city flash-o-holic and need a lot of output to be impressed. This is where the E1L is a bit disappointing. I know the designers at Surefire made the light so it has great runtime...but I don't care much about that. Max output is what gets me going :devil:
Then comes the Surefire L1 cree. Great light...2 modes, great output. But that little devil voice in my head said "You can make the light brighter...DO IT!" So I went ahead and shoved a RCR123 and was pleased with the results. But after a few weeks went by I was bored.
So here I am with the newest mod to the light. I decided to give the L1 head some circuitry with a FluPIC. I would run the light with a E1L body/clicky. I went this route instead of just modding a KX1 because I think it makes the light a bit less top-heavy and more balanced.
Here is how the head looks once you unscrew the bottom part. Fitting a FluPIC was easy as the surface was concave with an outer diameter that matched the OD of the FluPIC (.55")
Just slide on the FluPIC (or any .55" converter, for that matter) and you're ready.
I trimmed the wires, soldered on the board, then soldered on the grounding ring. Because the stock head has a raised (+) contact, I made a somewhat large solder blob. Also, I raised the battery so it was flush with the threads on the body via magnets.
Here's a shot of the finished head, all screwed back together
Here's a shot comparing my surefire lego to the KX1
Here's a comparison of some surefire heads.
KX1, KL1, L1
And finally some beamshots. I think the only stock light I have is the Fenix P1D Q5 w/ SMO reflector...
-0EV
-2EV
comparison of the low settings of both lights: EDIT: Didn't have the FluPIC set on the lowest setting. The corrected picture is found below.
And a shot of the L1 vs. My McGizmo S27-PD running at 833mA (NOT STOCK!) -2EV
The lux@1 meter reads 6500 :devil: Not bad for such a small light, so I'm satisfied...for now
Then comes the Surefire L1 cree. Great light...2 modes, great output. But that little devil voice in my head said "You can make the light brighter...DO IT!" So I went ahead and shoved a RCR123 and was pleased with the results. But after a few weeks went by I was bored.
So here I am with the newest mod to the light. I decided to give the L1 head some circuitry with a FluPIC. I would run the light with a E1L body/clicky. I went this route instead of just modding a KX1 because I think it makes the light a bit less top-heavy and more balanced.
Here is how the head looks once you unscrew the bottom part. Fitting a FluPIC was easy as the surface was concave with an outer diameter that matched the OD of the FluPIC (.55")
Just slide on the FluPIC (or any .55" converter, for that matter) and you're ready.
I trimmed the wires, soldered on the board, then soldered on the grounding ring. Because the stock head has a raised (+) contact, I made a somewhat large solder blob. Also, I raised the battery so it was flush with the threads on the body via magnets.
Here's a shot of the finished head, all screwed back together
Here's a shot comparing my surefire lego to the KX1
Here's a comparison of some surefire heads.
KX1, KL1, L1
And finally some beamshots. I think the only stock light I have is the Fenix P1D Q5 w/ SMO reflector...
-0EV
-2EV
comparison of the low settings of both lights: EDIT: Didn't have the FluPIC set on the lowest setting. The corrected picture is found below.
And a shot of the L1 vs. My McGizmo S27-PD running at 833mA (NOT STOCK!) -2EV
The lux@1 meter reads 6500 :devil: Not bad for such a small light, so I'm satisfied...for now
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