Forward vs. Reverse clickie

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Look guys!

It could be a completely different thing if P2D was a MEMORY light. But it always starts in low with the head loose. Click and then bump (med) and bump (high) is just natural!

I have an Ultrafire 505B (little E2 size lite) that has a Dereelight 3SD in it and a forward switch from a Lumapower. It is usually in memory high and a push gets me light.

I never get the two confused either.

The P2D which is what my post was about just works better with a reverse (unless maybe you kept the head tight all the time which I don't).

I wanted comments, not a fight!

Incidently I've had one reverse and one forward crap out on me. The reverse came in an Ultrafire 502B and the forward was one of the Lumapower switches.

 

[LukeA]

One example makes everything what others have said over the years old and worthless?

Others' claims are worth what you paid for them unless there's evidence to back them up.

Now, don't take this as me saying that there aren't clicky switches out there that are overly complex, unreliable or both. There most definitely are. But neither complexity nor unreliability is inherent to the design of either type of clicky switch common to flashlights.

 

[LukeA]

Oops. Couldn't really see the picture well. So, my speculation about switch design is wrong, but it is still one more part for the forward clicky which in a large production design might have an impact. Or it might not.

I have 2 further thoughts, now that we've warmed the subject:

1) (And you'll have to look at your switch parts to tell me if this is so) I think the reverse clicky button pushes against the pressure of one spring when you're activating it; and when you release the button after turn ON, the full pressure of that spring is holding the contacts together.

When you push on the button of a forward clicky, are you not pushing against the pressure of both springs to actuate it? And when you release the button, aren't the contacts only under pressure of one of those springs, with the other pushing only against the button? If that is the case, then wouldn't a reverse clicky be applying more spring pressure onto its' electrical contacts than a forward clicky of the same felt spring pressure? More pressure on the contacts could increase reliability. Or is that not the case based on what your parts show (can't see well enough to tell)?

Yes, that's the case. So, yes, with a given operating force, a reverse clicky will press harder on the contact plate.

The contact plate and small spring (the objects that would break the switch's contact under high enough acceleration) together have a mass of 0.2g. This particular switch (from my picture) has a rated operating force of 600gf ±50gf, but the force to click the switch is about 1.1kgf, so that's approximately how much force the contact plate and spring would have to overcome. That works out to roughly 5000 times the force of gravity.

Theoretically, yes it would increase reliability, specifically resistance to switching under high acceleration, but it would be obliterative to the battery and possibly other parts of the light, like the window, LED dome, or electronic components for the light to undergo the acceleration necessary to break the contact even with this forward clicky. So I don't think it's something worth too much worry with this particular switch. But it may be a concern with other, heavier switches.

 

[Kiessling]

I take the words of people who build lights as evidence enough for me, especially when personal eperience of 7 years on CPF seem to tell the same story.

Now ... feel free to do your own research on this topic or just diagree with me.

bernie

 

[LukeA]

Look guys!

It could be a completely different thing if P2D was a MEMORY light. But it always starts in low with the head loose. Click and then bump (med) and bump (high) is just natural!

I have an Ultrafire 505B (little E2 size lite) that has a Dereelight 3SD in it and a forward switch from a Lumapower. It is usually in memory high and a push gets me light.

I never get the two confused either.

The P2D which is what my post was about just works better with a reverse (unless maybe you kept the head tight all the time which I don't).

I wanted comments, not a fight!

Incidently I've had one reverse and one forward crap out on me. The reverse came in an Ultrafire 502B and the forward was one of the Lumapower switches.

I think it's personal preference whether you prefer forward or reverse clicky for changing modes. I like bump, bump, click to get my mode and lock it in. If I was apt to want to change modes after turning the light on, I would be in for a lot of clicking with a forward clicky at the back of my light. I won't say that there aren't people who prefer to be able to silently change modes after turning the light on. As I said before, it's totally a matter of personal preference.

With most Fenix lights though, the issue becomes somewhat less important because you can still get to Turbo quickly and easily.

 

[LukeA]

I take the words of people who build lights as evidence enough for me, especially when personal eperience of 7 years on CPF seem to tell the same story.

Now ... feel free to do your own research on this topic or just diagree with me.

bernie

Is this a reply to my edited or unedited post? I was editing my post simultaneously to your posting of your post.

post post post

 

[FLT MEDIC]

IMHO, you'll get used to a forward clicky in due time.

You can also manually strobe your light using a forward clicky no matter what mode it is set to, it's just not as fast or consistent in speed and light output. ;)

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Many if not most of my other lights with more than one mode have forward and none give me any trouble.

I let my buddy play with my P2D today and he wants one JUST like it.