goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 7 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
Ran out of microchips, only 3 left!
Ran out of microchips, only 3 left!
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Sold/Expired FS: FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics! $30 - Special till 1/2/06
- Thread starter goldserve
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for one sandwich. :goodjob:goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 3 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
Confirmed!
Confirmed!
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
GS
It is hard to beat the JILL DD RCR123 for size and brightness in a keychain size light.
The only problem I have with my JILL DD RCR123 is it gets hot quick. Will the FluPic with a UYOK or any emitter help everyone with this problem. I think having a strobe light on a keychain to alert emergency personel is a practical tool to have handy. Thanks
GS
It is hard to beat the JILL DD RCR123 for size and brightness in a keychain size light.
The only problem I have with my JILL DD RCR123 is it gets hot quick. Will the FluPic with a UYOK or any emitter help everyone with this problem. I think having a strobe light on a keychain to alert emergency personel is a practical tool to have handy. Thanks
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
ALL mailed out today. I think I only have 2 DD modules left, with TWOH emitter on them both! Cheers!
ALL mailed out today. I think I only have 2 DD modules left, with TWOH emitter on them both! Cheers!
B
bysee66
Guest
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
I am taking this last 2 completed drop in. Paypal sent!
I am taking this last 2 completed drop in. Paypal sent!
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
PP Received. Sold Out!
PP Received. Sold Out!
Last edited:
B
bysee66
Guest
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
PP sent. Please verify. Thanks.
PP sent. Please verify. Thanks.
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
I can make 2 more without LUXes...for all you modders...
I can make 2 more without LUXes...for all you modders...
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
I can make modules for the JIL 1.3W but if you put this in a jil DD, you will surpass the brightness of the JIL 1.3W (using RCR2) and a much smaller form factor!
With a H bin lux, you can also use a regular CR2 and get DD brightness.
BTW..I lied...I think I still have a TWOH or TYOH emitter...
I can make modules for the JIL 1.3W but if you put this in a jil DD, you will surpass the brightness of the JIL 1.3W (using RCR2) and a much smaller form factor!
With a H bin lux, you can also use a regular CR2 and get DD brightness.
BTW..I lied...I think I still have a TWOH or TYOH emitter...
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
I just did an inventory count. The gating factor are the custom machined rings. tvodrd sooooo kindly agreed to make more for me but it will take around 2 weeks to get there.
For those that missed out last time, don't let this slip away again.
For now, I can make three more, 2 sandwhiches without a lux and one with an unknown lux (either TWOH, TYOH, or UYOK). I'll charge $20 for this lux even though there is a possibility of UYOK =P
I just did an inventory count. The gating factor are the custom machined rings. tvodrd sooooo kindly agreed to make more for me but it will take around 2 weeks to get there.
For those that missed out last time, don't let this slip away again.
For now, I can make three more, 2 sandwhiches without a lux and one with an unknown lux (either TWOH, TYOH, or UYOK). I'll charge $20 for this lux even though there is a possibility of UYOK =P
Geogecko
Enlightened
Re: FS: 2 FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
Not a dumb question. But, I am under the impression that both the 1.3W and DD come with the same Luxeon. The difference, is that the DD is driven directly (hince the name), at the primary battery voltage, 3.0V. I think the forward voltage of the particular LED in these lights is higher, maybe 3.5V or something.
The 1.3W uses electronics between the battery and Luxeon, and from what I know, must use a Boost type regulator, so that the primary battery voltage of 3.0V can be boosted to match the forward voltage of the LED. That's what makes it brighter (and also not last as long--the battery, that is).
By using GS's drop-in regulator, you are "kind of" doing the same thing that the 1.3W regulator does for the DD, only you are getting a TON more features.
GS's drop-in is not a boost regulator though, which is why if you were using a primary with his drop-in, you would see similar performance as just the DD, but with a RCR2, (topped off voltage of about 4.2V), you get a lot more potential voltage, which allows control of the amount of current going to the Luxeon.
(That's why GS said if you use a primary, you will get DD brightness...)
GS, please correct anything that isn't 'true.'
onthebeam said:
Not a dumb question. But, I am under the impression that both the 1.3W and DD come with the same Luxeon. The difference, is that the DD is driven directly (hince the name), at the primary battery voltage, 3.0V. I think the forward voltage of the particular LED in these lights is higher, maybe 3.5V or something.
The 1.3W uses electronics between the battery and Luxeon, and from what I know, must use a Boost type regulator, so that the primary battery voltage of 3.0V can be boosted to match the forward voltage of the LED. That's what makes it brighter (and also not last as long--the battery, that is).
By using GS's drop-in regulator, you are "kind of" doing the same thing that the 1.3W regulator does for the DD, only you are getting a TON more features.
GS's drop-in is not a boost regulator though, which is why if you were using a primary with his drop-in, you would see similar performance as just the DD, but with a RCR2, (topped off voltage of about 4.2V), you get a lot more potential voltage, which allows control of the amount of current going to the Luxeon.
(That's why GS said if you use a primary, you will get DD brightness...)
GS, please correct anything that isn't 'true.'
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 3 Remaining FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
I could not have said it any better but please keep in mind that Low and High, I was able to get currents from 60ma to 600ma and in burst mode, 1A. This will give you an idea of how impressive this litte thing is! Cheers!
I could not have said it any better but please keep in mind that Low and High, I was able to get currents from 60ma to 600ma and in burst mode, 1A. This will give you an idea of how impressive this litte thing is! Cheers!
Re: FS: 3 Remaining FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
Does that mean in burst mode the Jil DD with FluPic and RCR2 is brighter or dimmer than a Jill DD without FluPic and with RCR2. (Given Same Bin)
Same question in High Mode.
Thanks for the Battery Correction! :buddies:
Does that mean in burst mode the Jil DD with FluPic and RCR2 is brighter or dimmer than a Jill DD without FluPic and with RCR2. (Given Same Bin)
Same question in High Mode.
Thanks for the Battery Correction! :buddies:
Last edited:
Geogecko
Enlightened
Re: FS: 3 Remaining FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
Based on what I know, if high is 600mA, and burst is 1A, then both of those levels should be much brighter than a JIL DD without FLuPIC. Not the case, when using a primary CR2 though, it will be dimmer with that.
By the way, the JIL's take CR2's, not CR123A's.
Lips said:
Based on what I know, if high is 600mA, and burst is 1A, then both of those levels should be much brighter than a JIL DD without FLuPIC. Not the case, when using a primary CR2 though, it will be dimmer with that.
By the way, the JIL's take CR2's, not CR123A's.
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 3 Remaining FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
Correct. The JIL takes CR2s..it is really small. It is a light that goes very easily on a keychain.
Correct. The JIL takes CR2s..it is really small. It is a light that goes very easily on a keychain.
Re: FS: 3 Remaining FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
Clarification: Are you saying both high and burst mode are brighter given both are using RCR2's ( Thats going to be very bright!!! )
If the above is correct and both versions (with FluPic and without FluPic and both DD using RCR2's) does the Flupic version have greater heat problems than a stock Jil on RCR2's
From experience when I put a UYOK in a Lion Cub replacing the T--H my heat problems disappeared. I guess obviously when you set to low you will have less heat build up.
Thanks for the info
Geogecko said:
Clarification: Are you saying both high and burst mode are brighter given both are using RCR2's ( Thats going to be very bright!!! )
If the above is correct and both versions (with FluPic and without FluPic and both DD using RCR2's) does the Flupic version have greater heat problems than a stock Jil on RCR2's
From experience when I put a UYOK in a Lion Cub replacing the T--H my heat problems disappeared. I guess obviously when you set to low you will have less heat build up.
Thanks for the info
goldserve
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: FS: 3 Remaining FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
For the JIL DD modules, I put a thin layer of heat compond to assis in heat removal. The metal ring on the makes contact with the board and draws the heat to the body.
The jil on DD gets warm quite quickly so that is a good thing. In addition, you can set the low and high levels to be very low to avoid heat problems. Using burst for short periods of time is probably not going to kill your lux right away. Remember the ORB RAWs are DD UYOH at 1.5A...
For the JIL DD modules, I put a thin layer of heat compond to assis in heat removal. The metal ring on the makes contact with the board and draws the heat to the body.
The jil on DD gets warm quite quickly so that is a good thing. In addition, you can set the low and high levels to be very low to avoid heat problems. Using burst for short periods of time is probably not going to kill your lux right away. Remember the ORB RAWs are DD UYOH at 1.5A...
Geogecko
Enlightened
Re: FS: 3 Remaining FluPIC JIL DD sandwhiches! Pics!
I'm not sure it's a good idea to use an RCR2 in a JIL DD. That high of a voltage (4.2V initially), could possibly blow the LED, but I'm not positive.
Ideally, when DDing an LED, you want to make sure that the battery voltage is equal to, or less than, the forward voltage of the led. Sometimes you can get away with a higher battery voltage, due to the internal resistance of the battery (which acts as a "balast" resistor), but it's probably dangerous.
Most likely, the forward voltage of the LED that comes stock on the DD is in the 3.5V range, and a primary is around 3.2V when new.
Lips said:
I'm not sure it's a good idea to use an RCR2 in a JIL DD. That high of a voltage (4.2V initially), could possibly blow the LED, but I'm not positive.
Ideally, when DDing an LED, you want to make sure that the battery voltage is equal to, or less than, the forward voltage of the led. Sometimes you can get away with a higher battery voltage, due to the internal resistance of the battery (which acts as a "balast" resistor), but it's probably dangerous.
Most likely, the forward voltage of the LED that comes stock on the DD is in the 3.5V range, and a primary is around 3.2V when new.
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