Glow in the dark powder
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VidPro
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just not water based, unless its a powder for water based., i donno why but i just toss it in anything i got, that is not water based, and it works great.
in Clear Silicoln, its like toothpaste, in clear enamels its like grits in paint.
good choices would be nail polish, because it is smoothing, glossy, and a bit thick.
if you put a craft glue down, you can "dust" with it, just about anything you can think of.
its a bit like pouring Sand in your paint
really, i tried the new spray can of it, and it has a Large nossel so the grit can pass through, one can totally clogged up and made a mess.
anyways i dont use it much, the "PAINT" that already has it done, is easy to work with, stays in the medium, but still theres sand in it think along those lines.
i also put it into ShoeGOO and GOOP brand clear glues. here is why, any thinner medium you have to do multiple coats to get a thickness of the stuff, its particals in there, the particals shouldnt get on top of each other, but you have to get enough particals ON to have a lot of glow there.
so multiple coats of any thinner medium, and/or a top coat to seal it is needed.
if i can glop it on in one sloppy move well its not pretty but there is a lot there. just depends on what it can hide behind.
there is some info that epoxy breaks the granuels more?
Epoxys work too, 5 min epoxy yellow more (from the store), but work fast, and the non-fast epoxy gives you much more working time. if you use a fast epoxy, then you have no time to think, mix it in the one part, add the hardener and go.
if you use a slow epoxy, which will hold a lot longer too, you can mix it, then mix in the glow, then wait till it heats, it heats up a lot at first, and gets really runny, if you want to work with it runny, then is the time to do so, it will leak out, spill pour, drain, its really runny then, and the bubles will leave it too . if you wait till after the initial heating and bubble removal, but long before it starts solidifying, then you get a honey like goop that is most workable.
one thing i still want to try it in, when i find the thing that needs it , is that ruberized/siliconized "tool Grip" stuff, i got a can of the "clear" and want to take a crack at using it. i would probably NEED to do one with the glow, and a single exterior coat WITHOUT the glow, so the particals are covered.
i dont do it as much as others, and certannly not as artistically perfect as i have seen it done. i just like to get LOTS in.
oh one more kinda important thing i found when putting it in clear silicoln, like window calking stuff. you can remove it from the stuff you slopped it on easy. so although its like toothpaste, its also like silicoln after dried, peeling it off the top of a crees glass dome is rather easy.
in Clear Silicoln, its like toothpaste, in clear enamels its like grits in paint.
good choices would be nail polish, because it is smoothing, glossy, and a bit thick.
if you put a craft glue down, you can "dust" with it, just about anything you can think of.
its a bit like pouring Sand in your paint
really, i tried the new spray can of it, and it has a Large nossel so the grit can pass through, one can totally clogged up and made a mess.anyways i dont use it much, the "PAINT" that already has it done, is easy to work with, stays in the medium, but still theres sand in it
think along those lines.i also put it into ShoeGOO and GOOP brand clear glues. here is why, any thinner medium you have to do multiple coats to get a thickness of the stuff, its particals in there, the particals shouldnt get on top of each other, but you have to get enough particals ON to have a lot of glow there.
so multiple coats of any thinner medium, and/or a top coat to seal it is needed.
if i can glop it on in one sloppy move
well its not pretty but there is a lot there. just depends on what it can hide behind.there is some info that epoxy breaks the granuels more?
Epoxys work too, 5 min epoxy yellow more (from the store), but work fast, and the non-fast epoxy gives you much more working time. if you use a fast epoxy, then you have no time to think, mix it in the one part, add the hardener and go.
if you use a slow epoxy, which will hold a lot longer too, you can mix it, then mix in the glow, then wait till it heats, it heats up a lot at first, and gets really runny, if you want to work with it runny, then is the time to do so, it will leak out, spill pour, drain, its really runny then, and the bubles will leave it too . if you wait till after the initial heating and bubble removal, but long before it starts solidifying, then you get a honey like goop that is most workable.
one thing i still want to try it in, when i find the thing that needs it , is that ruberized/siliconized "tool Grip" stuff, i got a can of the "clear" and want to take a crack at using it. i would probably NEED to do one with the glow, and a single exterior coat WITHOUT the glow, so the particals are covered.
i dont do it as much as others, and certannly not as artistically perfect as i have seen it done. i just like to get LOTS in.
oh one more kinda important thing i found when putting it in clear silicoln, like window calking stuff. you can remove it from the stuff you slopped it on easy. so although its like toothpaste, its also like silicoln after dried, peeling it off the top of a crees glass dome is rather easy.
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