Can somone give me some advice & if possible lumen ratings on these H4 bulbs that claim to produce more watts then they use.
Any bulb advertised as producing "nn watts of light for just yy watts of electricity" is a scam. You will never get an honest statement of luminous flux out of IPF (I'd be surprised if they give you any statement of luminous flux at all). In the case of the IPF bulbs you're looking at, there are a few additional bogus claims being made (not necessarily by that particular vendor you linked to —*I saw the obscene pricing and almost threw up before I could close the browser window!):
"nnn watts optical effect": No. There's no such thing as "optical effect" in this context, it's a meaningless buzzphrase. Remember, lumens are not hard-linked to watts. There are (normal, plain, regulation-spec) bulbs nominally rated 12v 55w that produce from 910 lumens (9003 low beam) to 1820 lumens (H2). Different filament, fill gas, and bulb capsule parameters determine whether any given bulb design is optimized for longer life or higher output or somewhere in the middle. Which brings us to all the noise IPF makes about the great big large-diameter glass on their "Fatboy" XX bulb. It certainly is visually impressive, and it's an easy sell since we tend to associate bigger with stronger/better, but that's wrong in the case of halogen bulbs, which work better with a
smaller glass tube. A smaller glass tube is closer to the filament, so it heats up faster and runs hotter, which means a more efficient halogen cycle, which means the filament can be driven harder without tungsten boil-off exceeding the rate of tungsten redeposition by the halogen cycle. And a smaller tube is physically stronger, so it can safely withstand higher gas fill pressure, further improving bulb efficacy.
Also, disregard the babble about color temperature or "kelvin ratings". It's a distraction from what really matters (lumens). You want bulbs with clear, untinted bulb glass.
If you need to stay with standard-wattage bulbs, the best ones on the market right now are
Philips Xtreme Power (Hey, lookit there, uncolored glass and a
smaller-than-standard glass capsule...!) 1895/1150 lumens.
If your application, whatever it is, has good enough wiring that a slight increase in wattage can be tolerated, then you might prefer the
Osram 70/65w bulb instead. 2000/1350 lumens.
International regulation ECE R37 specifies the luminous flux of the H4 bulb: 1650/1000 lumens ±15% and max allowable wattage 75/68w @ 13.2v. The U.S. regulation 49CFR564 for the 9003/HB2 (U.S. designation for the H4 bulb) is similar: 1580/910 lumens ±10% and max allowable wattage 72/65w @ 12.8v. The lumen differences are not the extent of the performance differences; the filament changes required to make a long-life bulb tend to reduce the beam focus, which shortens seeing distance, and to reduce filament surface luminance, which makes the light less white and more brown. The opposite filament changes are made to create the "Plus" or "Hyper" (+30, +50, +80, +90) type bulbs: Lifespan is reduced, but the beam focus is better so seeing distance is longer. Light color is whiter and less brown. The takeaway message here is that even if all the filaments put out exactly the same amount of light — the same lumens from a long life, a +30, a +50, a regular, an ultralong-life, etc. — the headlamp performance and appearance with the long-life bulb would still be inferior compared to the same headlamp performance and appearance with a regular, or +30, or +50, or +80, or Hyper bulb.
