H5CC Driver 5amp

LEDBE
You might find that sort of info in George's thread right here on CPF (presently just two posts away from this thread). Did you even look, Goldigger? :poke:
 
TorchBoy said:
You might find that sort of info in George's thread right here on CPF (presently just two posts away from this thread). Did you even look, Goldigger? :poke:
Click to expand...


I just read the posts on the link and did not see a reference to size other than the picture.
Thanks:ohgeez:
 
350xfire said:
I just read the posts on the link and did not see a reference to size other than the picture.
Thanks:ohgeez:
Click to expand...

George will be making a CPF version... meaning it'll be small enough for D or C mags

Look at the other items on taskled.com
 
looks good, and thats great news for me because i'm moving into the SST -90 chips for dive lights and will need a Monster driver
 
TorchBoy said:
You might find that sort of info in George's thread right here on CPF (presently just two posts away from this thread). Did you even look, Goldigger? :poke:
Click to expand...

Nope because i only read the dive light forum on here.. I'm sure others do to..
If you dont find it helpfull, then it's probably best you dont post and keep your complaints to yourself!
 
Codiak said:
A driver does currently exist (no pun)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=264687
Click to expand...

Please note that is a linear current regulator. So, it is VERY important to match the LED to the battery you intend to use.

Consider at 9A, dropping just 1V means 9W being dissipated as heat. Also factor in the headroom needed for it to regulate. It is possible that it can't regulate with a single li-ion and an -90 part. The latter point needs clarification from the designer.

Just some important factors that need to be considered prior to assuming a driver is "available" for the -90.



Now, onto the H5CC driver. The photo shows a hyperbuck with some minor component changes to test it as a 5A buck driver - basically that's a prototype you're seeing.

The production board will likely be 1.2" in diameter. My first layout was 1.3" in diameter (D mag compatible). I've sourced a different and much smaller but more capable FET that I'll update the layout with and that will allow size shrinking. Components only on 1 side of the PCB to make mounting the board to a heatsink easy.

I've tested the driver with 3 series connected P7 pairs (6 P7's total) at 5A and the driver is stable and works very well. Total Vf was 10V, so 50W being driven through the LEDs. Basically you could run 3 SST-50 from a 4 li-ion pack with efficiency >90%.

Anyhow, I'll keep the "other" CPF thread updated as well as the mtbr thread.

cheers,
george.
 
Goldigger said:
Nope because i only read the dive light forum on here.. I'm sure others do to..
If you dont find it helpfull, then it's probably best you dont post and keep your complaints to yourself!
Click to expand...
:shakehead I'm sorry to embarrass you, but you started a thread about a driver that already had a thread that was started by the driver's maker. :poke: And a driver by itself, even if you link to a mountain biking forum, is not dive lighting. You posted it in the wrong forum. :poke:
 
TorchBoy said:
:shakehead I'm sorry to embarrass you, but you started a thread about a driver that already had a thread that was started by the driver's maker. :poke: And a driver by itself, even if you link to a mountain biking forum, is not dive lighting. You posted it in the wrong forum. :poke:
Click to expand...

Your only embarrassing yourself..
You really miss the point of my post dont you? maybe you need to stop thinking inside the box and start poking yourself!
Let me explain to you as you seem to have a problem. People make dive lights and people make bike lights.
They are all built on the same pricibles LED's, Drivers, batterys etc.
I know for a fact that people on this forum are looking for a driver that can be used with an SST-50.

I read the mtbr diy light forum as i ride bikes and make bike lights.
I read the Dive light forum as I'm a diver and mod dive lights.

So i was sharing the driver info with other divers that might find it usefull.
Even if it was posted somwhere else doesnt mean that i cant post info directly into the dive light forum, or because it was posted on a mountain bike forum.

Get the point now or are you still none the wiser?????????????
:poke::poke::poke::poke::poke::poke::poke:
 
georges80 said:
Please note that is a linear current regulator. So, it is VERY important to match the LED to the battery you intend to use.

Consider at 9A, dropping just 1V means 9W being dissipated as heat. Also factor in the headroom needed for it to regulate. It is possible that it can't regulate with a single li-ion and an -90 part. The latter point needs clarification from the designer.
Click to expand...

As the designer of the driver in question, I can say that George's comments are spot on:twothumbs.

This driver was intended to fill a small part of the gap that currently exists between the availability of >5A LEDs and the lack of suitable switching regulators. When good switchers are available from George and others, I expect my design will slip silently below the waves, never to be seen again. In the meantime, orders placed by Friday are shipped on Monday.

This driver was originally intended for 4S NiMH packs and one LED, though other configurations may work well too. One user set up a single SST-90 on a 2S LiIon pack. The reg generates more heat than the LED (meaning efficiency is less than 50%), but at least he has a regulated current!

As far as the overhead required (AKA dropout voltage), it's less than 0.3V at 10A for standard 2-level models. For the mathamatically inclined, this comes from the maximum series resistance of 0.03 ohms. By changing some parts, custom single level drivers could have dropout voltages of 0.1V or less.

So yes, George, I can confirm unequivocably that a driver is available, but as you quite accurately point out, it will not meet the needs of every user, and anyone considering using it must understand the power and heat issues or risk building a light whose lifetime will be best measured in seconds instead of years:poof:.

D
 
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