Had an idea. Is this possible?

[AlphaZen]

My idea is to add a magnet to the bottom of a Quark Mini AA that is the same width as the light. I am not sure if an adhesive or solder job would work better. My idea continues that the magnet would then be cut and fit with a tritium vial.

So there you have it. It would only add an incremental amount of length to the light, but would give it the useful features of the magnet and trit, an in my vision would still allow a perfect tailstand.
So, is this possible and does it even sound like a good idea?

 

[AnAppleSnail]

My idea is to add a magnet to the bottom of a Quark Mini AA that is the same width as the light. I am not sure if an adhesive or solder job would work better. My idea continues that the magnet would then be cut and fit with a tritium vial.

So there you have it. It would only add an incremental amount of length to the light, but would give it the useful features of the magnet and trit, an in my vision would still allow a perfect tailstand.
So, is this possible and does it even sound like a good idea?

My magnet fits inside, under the spring. Somewhere I've posted the size I used. It's occasionally useful.

 

[alpg88]

have you ever tried machining, cutting or drilling a magnet??? lol
try it. but practice on glass first, cuz neodymium magnets are as brittle as glass, and you need neodymium, ceramics are weak, for the size.

you'll need to use abrasive tools, not cutting tools, like drill bits, and saw blades, you'll need to do it in cold water, cuz cutting it will heat it up, magnets loose their strength when hot, permanently.

or you could make the disc out of steel, and magnetize it after all cutting is done, but it wont be as strong as real neodymium magnet

 

[AlphaZen]

have you ever tried machining, cutting or drilling a magnet??? lol
try it. but practice on glass first, cuz neodymium magnets are as brittle as glass, and you need neodymium, ceramics are weak, for the size.

you'll need to use abrasive tools, not cutting tools, like drill bits, and saw blades, you'll need to do it in cold water, cuz cutting it will heat it up, magnets loose their strength when hot, permanently.

or you could make the disc out of steel, and magnetize it after all cutting is done, but it wont be as strong as real neodymium magnet

That's a good point about the magnets being brittle. This is the kind of info I was looking for - thanks.

 

[AnAppleSnail]

QMiNi AA stuck on a curved steel surface with its magnet. It hangs upside down and at all angles if the steel/iron is even medium-weight sheet steel.

 

[AlphaZen]

QMiNi AA stuck on a curved steel surface with its magnet. It hangs upside down and at all angles if the steel/iron is even medium-weight sheet steel.

That's great. So you put a magnet inside under the spring? It doesn't give a solution for the trit, but cool no less.

 

[AnAppleSnail]

That's great. So you put a magnet inside under the spring? It doesn't give a solution for the trit, but cool no less.

You can always mill a trit slot in, or slightly extend the rear (With epoxy, to cover a trit) to keep tailstanding.

The magnet is a disk, 3mm thick and 10mm in diameter. It's a very strong neodymium magnet - unfortunately the only other one I have is part of my camera trigger.

Find one about that size and you're set. If you go much bigger, it hits the (reinforced) slope inside the bottom of the light, or it could damage the battery.

 

[AnAppleSnail]

On further thought, the back aluminum is probably NOT thick enough to dig a substantial groove in. You'd have to put a mm of Norland on the back and bury the trit that way.

The back cylinder wall where the knurling is is very thick, although my calipers aren't long enough to measure it.

You could go maybe a mm bigger in diameter on the magnet, and probably a few mm taller.

 

[AlphaZen]

On further thought, the back aluminum is probably NOT thick enough to dig a substantial groove in. You'd have to put a mm of Norland on the back and bury the trit that way.

Can you work with Norland like that? I assumed it was runny, but you make it sound sculptable.

I had another thought on triting out the Q Mini AA. What about putting a trit through the keychain hole and surrounding it with Norland or epoxy? And then if you wanted to add a magnet you could do as you suggested earlier.

 

[AnAppleSnail]

Can you work with Norland like that? I assumed it was runny, but you make it sound sculptable.

I had another thought on triting out the Q Mini AA. What about putting a trit through the keychain hole and surrounding it with Norland or epoxy? And then if you wanted to add a magnet you could do as you suggested earlier.

I've never used it. Plug the keyring hole with something, then add tape around the aluminum barrel protruding upwards a bit, pour in the Norland to (shallow!) depth and cure it with UV. That might work? Lets you use the keyring hole, still.

I think Norland can be molded inside anything that lets enough UV in to cure it.