Has anyone had a flashlight "clicky" switch fail?

[marinemaster]

My Surefire E2L switch completely broke after about 8 or 9 years of use.

 

[GoVegan]

My Surefire E2L switch completely broke after about 8 or 9 years of use.

That sucks. This is why I don't buy Surefire, no spare parts are available. As you are aware they used to sell spare tailcaps but stopped a few years ago, but even then that was an overkill purchase at around 37 USD AFAIR, when all most people need a spare switch for the cost of a few dollars.

 

[archimedes]

Re: Has anyone had a flashlight "clicky" switch fail?

I still see Z68 for sale at various places (for less than that) ... and of course there are aftermarket options as well.

The last few switches of mine that broke got replaced free by SF, but that was before those models got discontinued, so I don't know what their current status is for replacement parts.

 

[GoVegan]

As noted by many above all switches can and will at some point fail (some sooner than others). This is why I think ALL flashlight makers should sell spare switches (along with other 'consumables' such as o-rings and rubber tailcap boots).

Jason from Prometheus Lights is spot on (on the McClicky product page):

This switch sets the gold standard, but you can expect all mechanical switches to fail. That's what happens to things that have moving parts. This is the best switch on the market, but it won't stop it from wearing out. Might as well get a hand full to keep on hand. Remember, two is one and one is none.​

I wish more companies had the same attitude as Prometheus Lights and Malkoff Devices.

A a general rule, if I'm spending more the 100 bucks on a light I expect to see a solid warranty plus spare parts available for sale.

I know that Henry's lights use electronic switches but I wish he would re-design his his lights so that the switches could be user-replaceable (currently the EDS Rotary tailcap isn't even user serviceable). Sames goes for Muyshondt.

 

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

That sucks. This is why I don't buy Surefire, no spare parts are available.

Huh? :thinking:

SureFire has always sent me replacement tailcaps without charge, most recently for an EB2 where the rubber boot wore through to expose the red clicky button.

4Sevens had some definite tailcap switch problems on their Quarks and sold a pin wrench so that you could take apart the tailcap on their early lights and try to fix the clicky switch.

Henry replaced one of the clicky tailcaps on an HDS EDC years ago. It was a model that had thin wires going along the side of the battery. I've got a Rotary with a button that's a little flakey, I might need to send it in for repair.

 

[bykfixer]

Nope, not yet anyway.

 

[Nimitz68]

Huh? :thinking:

SureFire has always sent me replacement tailcaps without charge, most recently for an EB2 where the rubber boot wore through to expose the red clicky button.

4Sevens had some definite tailcap switch problems on their Quarks and sold a pin wrench so that you could take apart the tailcap on their early lights and try to fix the clicky switch.

Henry replaced one of the clicky tailcaps on an HDS EDC years ago. It was a model that had thin wires going along the side of the battery. I've got a Rotary with a button that's a little flakey, I might need to send it in for repair.

I was scratching my head as well after reading that post. I have contacted Surefire over the years requesting replacement tailcaps and have never had an issue. Their customer service folks have always been very nice and sent me replacements at no charge.

 

[GoVegan]

I was scratching my head as well after reading that post. I have contacted Surefire over the years requesting replacement tailcaps and have never had an issue. Their customer service folks have always been very nice and sent me replacements at no charge.

I've read posts by many people that say that they used to send out replacement tailcaps previously but then changed their policy a couple of years ago and customers have since been asked to send their lights back. Seems to be because some people were abusing the system (I know of at least one other user on another forum who openly admitted about calling Surefire for replacement tailcaps to be sent out just for spare in-case).
Besides, when I talk about expensive flashlight parts I'm also talking about the front glass, Surefire don't sell nor are they user replaceable. It's not just these issues that have kept me buying Surefire (but other things like them exceeding the safety specs of CR123 batteries, and their single cell "tactical" lights having multiple modes etc)... however I didn't want to mention those points here as they aren't relevant to this discussion on clicky switches. I hope these points don't don't now distract from the topic at hand.

I still standby that Surefire should actually sell replacement switches and rubber boots, as they are the most likely wear parts on any light.

 

[Modernflame]

While I'd wager that most reputable manufacturers will replace broken switches under warranty, there's something to be said for having replacement parts on hand. It seems preferable to spend a few minutes swapping out parts than to be deprived of the light for a week, and that's conservatively estimating shipping and repair time. This would be especially true during a power outage or other emergency. Not everyone will have multiple back up lights like the average CPF'er.

 

[fresh eddie fresh]

I have had two Surefire clicky switches fail on me. One was a scout light shrouded one that got stuck in the on position. I could still twist to turn it on and off, so the light was still usable, just not as intended. The second was a clicky from a 6P Defender that was on an old 6Z that I dropped just the right way to break it. Upon impact it tuned on, and seemed to work until I took the tailcap off to see what the problem was, at that point, everything fell out.

In both cases, Surefire sent me a replacement. The larger clicky was no longer available, so they sent me the hex-type tailcap from a Fury and the light is back up and running. Surefire has a great warranty.

 

[bykfixer]

If SureFire sold parts I'd buy some and stash them in a parts box for just in case. I have done that with a few brands for the eventual day something does quit.

 

[Darryl Staw]

...Yep...My "flashlight "CLICKY THING" is what pushed me into joining CPF...LOL...I have a Fenix LD10 that I've loved for years but the switch totally bottomed out and will not return. Spoke to John at Fenix-Store and Colt at Fenix Lighting and since I bought the LD20 thru Amazon they will not help me out. Go figure. Someone must sell replacements...LOL...
[h=2][/h][h=2][/h]

 

[Dingle1911]

I have had Surefire and McClicky switches fail. All have been replaced free of charge under warranty. Also the switches failed after years of use.

 

[LiftdT4R]

We've had a handful of Maglites switches fail over the years at work. The rate is pretty low, maybe 1 out of every 20 or so after hard use. The small plastic prongs that engage and disengage the switch wear over time and the light now longer functions other than a momentary on/off. There used to be service centers that would fix them for free but now you have to send them back to Mag and it's cheaper just to buy a new light. I should mention that this was after very long periods of hard, regular use. I've never had one fail prematurely.

 

[Swordforthelord]

I had a McClicky switch fail but I disassembled and reassembled it and it's been fine ever since.

If you've had a pressed in switch fail I imagine that would be very hard to repair. It may indeed be junk.

 

[tokaji]

Well, my E2L-A began to function abnormaly again. Sometimes, when I switch it on it seems goes into high mode first. Other days, it goes into low mode, but as oon as I lift my finger from tha button, it goes into high mode. Disassemly, contact cleaning, reassembly and it goes well for 1-2 weeks again...

 

[Scourie]

Nitecore sell a replacement black tailcap, that happens to fit perfectly on the older Solarforce L2 - Surefire 6P flashlights.

 

[thermal guy]

As good a light as it is I have had 4-5 "tails" go bad in my HDS lights. The exact problem I will never know. All replaced by Henry for nothing of course

 

[Climb14er]

My 2009 Olight switch failed, contacted the company, and they sent me a refurbished switch for the M30 Triton. Kudos to Olight!

 

[HighlanderNorth]

And, if the "clicky" switch fails in a small flashlight with a "pressed" in installed switch (as contrasted with screwed in installation), do you have a brick?

Yes. In 2012 I bought a Spark SL5 220CW, which is a really cool and unusual looking light. I bought a Zebralight sc52 at about the same time, and I switched to the SC52 from my Jetbeam BC10 as my edc light. I lost the SC52 just 2 years later, and decided to finally use the Spark SL5. It lasted 3 months until 1 of its 2 switches broke. I didn't see any way to fix its switch, so that was its end.