Heatsinking SSC/CREE Design

[ausbump]

Looking to heatsink some SSC's and/or a Cree in a flashlight (they need it, right?)
A problem i have seen though, is that the driver boards attach directly to the STAR
(for example this one)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4255

How is it possible to heat sink this light now? I can't put a metal heatsink under the star, as it will short it out. Likewise, I can't put it on top of the regulator and under the star for the same reason. And it can't go underneath the star.

So how can it be done?
It's frustrating to be trying to mod, but not knowing how to do this!

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3257

Is that a heatsink assembly as well, and if so, what stops the star/driver board from being shorted out by all that aluminum?

 

[2xTrinity]

Looking to heatsink some SSC's and/or a Cree in a flashlight (they need it, right?)
A problem i have seen though, is that the driver boards attach directly to the STAR
(for example this one)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4255

How is it possible to heat sink this light now? I can't put a metal heatsink under the star, as it will short it out. Likewise, I can't put it on top of the regulator and under the star for the same reason. And it can't go underneath the star.

These do not attach to the star. The little wires that are already attached are the output leads, those get soldered to the star. The inner "ring" on the bottom of the board is the ground, and the copper "circle" in the center is the positive input -- the positive end of the battery pack is meant to bump up against it.

If in your application it's not practical to locate the board at the positive end of the battery pack, you can solder additional lead wires yourself to act as the input.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3257

Is that a heatsink assembly as well, and if so, what stops the star/driver board from being shorted out by all that aluminum?[/quote]
That image is deceptive. The regular sized stars actually won't fit, you need the circular mini-stars, or bare emitters. If you use mini stars, the bottom of the star is electrically isolated, if not, you will need to use a razor blade to sever the lead wires that lead to the bottom of the Cree, which will electrically insulate the bottom.

 

[ausbump]

Thanks!
So can you use a large, say, conductive metal heatsink attached to the bottom of a larger star? And run the regulator to the star?
Also, how can the regulator listed convert say a 3v input into the required 3.whatever volts for the star. Surely they don't convert to AC, then transform, then rectify again!

 

[yellow]

the reflector sits on the emitter, not touching the star's contacts

Surely they don't convert to AC, then transform, then rectify again!

the easy explanation: Yes, they do

You re quite right: emitter (Star) mounted on heatsink, converter leads soldered to star.
Usually all this sits inside a housing, the wires go through the sink and the converter sits on the other side. Battery "+" directly touches that middle contact on the circuit, the housing makes the "-" connection.
If You have a Fenix f.e., look inside the head.

 

[ausbump]

Thank you! I will buy accordingly.
This may be a significant task (to pull it off), but rewarding no doubt.

 

[2xTrinity]

Thanks!
So can you use a large, say, conductive metal heatsink attached to the bottom of a larger star? And run the regulator to the star?
Also, how can the regulator listed convert say a 3v input into the required 3.whatever volts for the star. Surely they don't convert to AC, then transform, then rectify again!

Here is a simlpe buck converter:

basically, the switching is governed by transistors that detect the output current, or voltage (I believe the DX drivers are current regulated), then adjust the duty cycle of the switching accordingly. The capacitor, or capacitors are used to smooth the ouput current.