Help choose (1) of (2) . . .

[Hobbs]

Ready to purchase my first flashlight that costs more than 10usd. Have narrowed it down to these two. Established brand that is not bleeding edge technology, or new kid on the block with the bells and whistles? Looking for suggestions from those that know much more than I. Cost is not a consideration, quality and longevity is. No link because of the note at the top of the page.

Surefire 6P LED

4Sevens Quark123/2

 

[carrot]

The 6P LED is a pretty boring flashlight. It is good because it is quality, easily upgradeable (with both 1st and 3rd party accessories), but it is heavy, and in stock form, not as versatile as say, the Surefire LX2, which I would recommend instead, as it is both thinner and offers a 2-stage switch. The LX2 is not so easily upgradeable (although there are those who offer their modding services to upgrade them), and even better quality.

As to the Quark, plenty has been written recently about them. They are very good, relatively inexpensive, and well-designed. The 123^2 is my favorite form factor for the Quarks.

I find it difficult to actually choose in situations like this. Best to just get both...

IMHO the real decision is how much you're willing to spend and if you want to play Surefire lego or have a light that is extremely versatile.

If you want to play Surefire lego, the 6P is the way to go as there are tons of first-party and aftermarket parts, but if you want something a little more versatile in one package, the LX2 or Quark are excellent choices. If you want something a little more versatile than the 6P and don't want to give up lego, the E2L or E2D are excellent choices as there are plenty of aftermarket parts for these too... although not as much.

FWIW, the Quarks have swappable components too, but they haven't been out as long and are unlikely to achieve the singular popularity that allows 3rd party manufacturers to sell cool compatible parts.

 

[Search]

I reckon I'm backwards of Carrot.

I don't plan on buying another light after my last 6P for a long time. I wouldn't get the 6PL though. I would get a 6P (because it's much cheaper) and get an aftermarket drop-in. Nailbenders XPG R4 is my favorite and something I'm going to stick with for a LONG time. I personally love the 6Ps design and function. A twisty with some Nano-Oil = a very very easy one handed light.

I used to own a PD30 before giving it to my fiance. While those types of lights are really nice to some people. It all comes down to personal preference. The size and UI are why I don't own one. I like bigger and simpler lights.


I challenge everyone to forget that we are comparing SureFire to Quark and to look at something a little deeper: Size and UI. That's the only differences that should matter. Cost, brand, hype, etc. mean nothing.

 

[Zeruel]

The core advantage of 6P over Quark is the drop-in upgradeability. For the matter, I prefer a C2 instead. But if you'd prefer more modes in a compact package, then Quark's the way to go.

Since budget's not an issue, how about Surefire E2DL for another option? That is if you'd prefer 2-mode clicky. LX2 is a great choice too.

 

[jamesmtl514]

I would pick the Surefire. It is a bit boring stock but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Its extremely reliable. It is very easily upgraded once you want more from it. Also you'd be supporting N.A. business.

 

[JaguarDave-in-Oz]

I'd pick the quark and indeed I put my money where my mouth is with an order only a few nights ago. Wish it would get here soon.

The quark is very compact with heaps of light, there's no voiding of warranty if you use any brand and type of batteries, they include shipment in the price (important of O/S people like me), you get a choice between two entirely different switching modes and we have access to the owner/designer/salesperson right here on CPF.

 

[Illum]

I don't like to be against carrot, as certain aftereffects may be quite severe...but

Once you buy a light, no matter how well established you have of it, and the prospects of updating your light, you will inevitably and invariably feel left out as the new LED comes out and overtime come to justify the need of a new light.
Buying the Surefire 6PL gains the advantage of both buying a decent light as well as a decent host in which future, perhaps better, LED modules can be accommodated with minimal modding experience.

With limiting budgets it may be in your best interest (perhaps contrary to the collective good) to consider material gains or value in the long run than the performance of them now as they lay before you.

 

[joshconsulting]

Not a big fan of the 6p, it costs a LOT compared to, say, a Solarforce L2p (yes, I am a fan) and is Type 2 anodizing instead of Type 3 HA, meaning the finish cracks and flakes easily. Get an L2p for half the price with a much better finish if you decide to go the lego route, it's essentially the same as the 6p other then the price and quality of finish. Plus, you don't have to bore it out to take 18650 cells.

 

[Illum]

Plus, you don't have to bore it out to take 18650 cells.

18650 cell compatibility is a matter of personal preference

 

[joshconsulting]

18650 cell compatibility is a matter of personal preference

Indeed. But it's good to know that it's there if you ever decide to use them :thumbsup:

 

[bluecrow76]

Buy the Quark first... then when you get bored and want something else to play with get a Surefire C2... it looks better than the 6P! :thumbsup:

 

[carrot]

Not a big fan of the 6p, it costs a LOT compared to, say, a Solarforce L2p (yes, I am a fan) and is Type 2 anodizing instead of Type 3 HA, meaning the finish cracks and flakes easily. Get an L2p for half the price with a much better finish if you decide to go the lego route, it's essentially the same as the 6p other then the price and quality of finish. Plus, you don't have to bore it out to take 18650 cells.

Type III ano (aka HA) cracks and flakes easily? HArdly. Type II wears so easily it's not even funny. Against soft brass keys in my pocket, a type II flashlight I had attached became shiny and bare in under a year. HA protects the flashlight and wears very gracefully, even looking good on used lights... all my HA flashlights look great, even after years of use and abuse, as well as dropping them all the time.

Besides, the 6P is Type II. You'll want a C2 or M2 if you want HA.

 

[joshconsulting]

Type III ano (aka HA) cracks and flakes easily? HArdly. Type II wears so easily it's not even funny. Against soft brass keys in my pocket, a type II flashlight I had attached became shiny and bare in under a year. HA protects the flashlight and wears very gracefully, even looking good on used lights... all my HA flashlights look great, even after years of use and abuse, as well as dropping them all the time.

Besides, the 6P is Type II. You'll want a C2 or M2 if you want HA.

I'm afraid you misunderstood my post. My point was that the 6P is type 2, which wears easily, making it inferior to the far cheaper L2p

 

[carrot]

I'm afraid you misunderstood my post. My point was that the 6P is type 2, which wears easily, making it inferior to the far cheaper L2p

Well if you've ever had Type II crack or chip easily then you've been duped into buying a painted light, not an anodized one. Type II only wears through abrasion.

In any case, do you really think the cheap Solarforce is real HA?

 

[joshconsulting]

Type 2 wears quite easily. I've EDCed sevral type 2s before, and all of my Mags are type two, and it's very easy to scratch them up simply by being in my pocket with keys and such. I'm no expert an anodizing, but I think it quite likely that the Solarforce has geniuine type 3 - it's gotten thrown around a bit with my other lights with no scratches whatsoever, and the anodized section of the threads is perfect with no scratches or flakes (it would likely have started to wear with many tightening cycles for anodizing-on-anodizing if it was type 2).

 

[MartinDWhite]

I was in the same position about 4 months ago and came down to almost the same two lights or a Malkoff MD2 with M60 Drop-in. After much looking I bought the Malkoff MD2 with M60. I have since bought two more Malkoffs; MD2/M60LF and a MD4 body waiting on M60 MC-E to come back in stock.

Martin D. White

 

[LightWalker]

According to the runtime charts I've seen the Quark running on a 17670 compares well in brightness and runtime to some of the bigger lights running on an 18650.