help! how do i break loose stock thermal epoxy?

blackdragonx1186

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loose stock thermal epoxy? i have a romisen I3 that im trying to swap to a Q5, but i cant figure out how to take off the stock emitter. i dont want to damage it if i dont have to, because id like to reuse it in something else. suggestions from the experts? :bow:
 
Re: help! how do i break....

Heating it up will allow you to remove it easier.
 
If mechanical doesn't work (a lot of the thermal epoxies are pretty weak mechanically, but so is the ceramic carrier of the Cree...), heat, as suggested by darkzero, might work. Depending on the epoxy, it may soften up after some time at 100...180 °C. If it's the higher value, you still risk damage to the LED, though.
The instructions for a common german epoxy recommend to dunk the part in boiling water for a quarter of an hour - again, nothing I'd try if I wanted to reuse the LED. If you have a citchen stove that can reliably hold a temperature of 100°C, I'd try that one.

Good luck
Markus
 
Acetone. Pure, not the nail polish solutions.

When I was dealing with dried out CPU heatsink gummy paste I tried alcohol, heating (with a beefy heat gun), and various other nasty chemicals. Nothing worked - including acetone-based nail polish remover.

In the end it took pure acetone to finally convince the stubborn crud to let go.
 
I agree with darkzero, Heat is going to be your friend with this type of thing

It has worked for me in the past.
 
heat works, but will ultimately destroy whatever electric [or dielectric] component you have attached to it.

I tried heatgun, mixed results depending on how big the metal its sitting on and how well that chuck of metal dissipates heat [removing LEDs from a heatsink:shakehead]

I ended up propane torching the localized area, that did it in a few minutes:D
 
heat works, but will ultimately destroy whatever electric [or dielectric] component you have attached to it.

I tried heatgun, mixed results depending on how big the metal its sitting on and how well that chuck of metal dissipates heat [removing LEDs from a heatsink:shakehead]

I ended up propane torching the localized area, that did it in a few minutes:D

It shouldn't require that much heat where you would damage the electronics. I use heat to remove emitters all the time on lights that I upgrade. I never damage anything except for maybe the emitter but that's usually because of the prying. Emitter usually still works. I normally use a small butane iron with a heat blower attachment or heat the heatsink with a soldering iron.
 
wow. heat, cold. heat, cold, lol. i tried heating it with my soldering iron, but i was afraid of getting the driver too hot. humm, maybe ill try the freezing method. the led is pretty nasty looking now, at least the base is. still works fine tho, even after 2 attempts to take it off. i have access to dry ice, so ill try some of that:thumbsup:
 
It shouldn't require that much heat where you would damage the electronics. I use heat to remove emitters all the time on lights that I upgrade. I never damage anything except for maybe the emitter but that's usually because of the prying. Emitter usually still works. I normally use a small butane iron with a heat blower attachment or heat the heatsink with a soldering iron.

I wonder if I'm mixing this wrong...every time Part B is completely emptied there will be at least 1/4 of part A remaining:ohgeez:
 
I wonder if I'm mixing this wrong...every time Part B is completely emptied there will be at least 1/4 of part A remaining:ohgeez:

I don't think you're mixing it wrong. I noticed when I used to use Artic Alumina epoxy & Artic Silver epoxy I get similar results. I have tubes that I haven't finished & always one tube thickens up as if it's drying out. I stopped using these epoxies though years ago so I can't say if the later stuff is any different.
 
Go for the freezer. Put the light into a plastic bag and stuff it into your freezer overnight.
You will still have to use quite some force, but it will "crack".
 
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