so it is try that it does not pull 900lm, only ~650lm
:welcome:
We all started out trying to figure this stuff out.
I serioulsly considered this light before going DIY. I could have bought three of these and had about the same output. (But would not have had as much fun, and I had a decent light while I built one.)
I would suggest you read the thread here "Anyone played with the new DX P7 bike light?", if you haven't already. It covers the good, the bad, and the ugly. It remains an excellent lumen per dollar value. They did cut corners to hit that price, though.
A note about specifications. LED outputs are measured under laboratory conditions that include temperature control and maximum recommended currents, and the highest output bins (selected for their performance). These measurements don't use a lens or reflector.
You tend not to get premium bins with an inexpensive light. You can look up the binning specifications sheet for SSC P7 C and D bin outputs to determine how much difference there is in output.
The driver apparently varies from one light to the next, but most deliver about 2.4 not the full 2.8 A. The datasheet may tell you how much that drops output, but likely 5-10%.
There isn't a lot of contact area between the mounting pill and the light body, so heat does not get away from the LED as quickly as it should, so the LED will run hotter and produce less light per watt. Instead of being maybe 20 C above ambient it will may be over 60 C depending on how air flow and ambient temps. But at a guess, a 10-20% loss to heat, maybe more.
Then the reflector is likely to take about 10%. So that is a 25-40% lower output out the front that the lab specs for that LED. A well designed light for thermal control will be in the 15-25% range. Some questioned whether there was even 500 lumens out the front of the early versions once warmed up. They did not have thermal paste to help thermal management.
That said, I rode a 500 lumen HID that was a bit too much for the street unless aimed off to the right. The MS-808 is spreads its output more. Some riders tape off the top to reduce glare to oncoming motorists and use two. As you can see in his post, Pe2er and many others use one with great success.
There will be new LEDs. One may work to replace the P7 but the space for a different driver is tight so that may mean a separate control box to house the driver, though maybe you could drive two lights with the right driver. Some have bought this light knowing they will gut it at some point down the road and just use the body as a shell to hold completely different heatsink/lens/led and driver. As someone who took that route with a different light body, I can say that you can get very good results if you have a modicum of soldering and mechanical skills with simple hand tools and have an upgradable system, have fun if you are into mechanical or electronic things, but you won't save money.
So ride one and see. If you need more light, buy a second or even a third. Also check out Geomangear if you are in the US, as by all accounts, he does a great job of support and has separate heads, chargers, and batteries.
Hope this helps.