Help me find a 1200lm+ LED for MagiShine

Hello guys, i bought the MagicShine light off EBay, it is on it's way, i would like to know what mods i can do to it to make it last longer, shine better.

I been looking to find a 1200lm LED, but no one that sells the 1200lm Flash Lights has replied to me with availability on replcement LEDs, where can i find 900lm+ LEDs for replacement ?

Also the batteries in the MagicShine ... are they 4 x small AAA sized Li-Ion or AA sized ? Does UltraFire make one single battery that can replace the 4 in this kit ? What about adding another battery(ies), what options do i have ?
 
Is the light inn the MagicShine a 500lm ?

I asked some sellers on EBay that sell 1200lm flashlights for replacement LED bulb and no one so far replied that they could supply me with one.
 
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I bought a MagicShine, waiting for it in the mail, i want to upgrade the LED to something more serious, and the batteries to something more powerful, i can not seem to find a seller to supply me a LED bulb. Does anyone know where i can get one ?

Also, what battery mods have ppl done ? Does UltraFire make a single battery that can replace the 4 x 18650s ?
 
Re: Ultimate trike light

where can i find a more powerful LED to replace the 900lm one in the magic shine ?
 
you wont find an easy upgrade path for the magicshine light .

if you need 1200 lumens then buy a second MS light that would be the easiest way to upgrade.
 
does anyone have the MagicShine LED dimentions ?

maybe in the future there will be something for a replacement.
 
MagicShine is not a light, it's a brand name. The light you're talking about it is the MJ-808. The LED inside is an SSC P7. You can upgrade it to an SST-90 if you want to reach 1200 lumen, but then you also need to replace the driver (needs to deliver more power) and possibly also the power pack (depending on how hard you want to drive the new LED). I go with trout, the simplest way to get more brightness is just to buy 2 of these lights.

By the way, nobody ever got hurt by searching information on the internet/CPF :) It's free and accessible to all! Enjoy! Asking the same question in 4 different topics doesn't make much sense I'm afraid.
 
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kaos42_ze ... you've spammed the forum with 5 posts in different threads, all effectively asking the same question.

As well as being a great nuisance for other members, this is forbidden by Rule 9.

I've moved all the posts into this thread just so you can see how tiresome it is for people to have to read the same question over and over. Please don't do it again.
 
sorry, did not know, i was exited that i found this forum and wanted to find out if i can get a replacement LED, because i asked around the sellers on Ebay and none of them have LED blub replacements.
 
Nice to see that you are so excited by bike-lights, and welcome to this forum :)

I Would suggest you first try the light with the standard LED and see if its output suits your needs. I Drive around with one and think that it has plenty of light output :)
018hf.jpg


This the the LED that emits all the 667 Lumens of light:
 
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so it is try that it does not pull 900lm, only ~650lm

:welcome:
We all started out trying to figure this stuff out.

I serioulsly considered this light before going DIY. I could have bought three of these and had about the same output. (But would not have had as much fun, and I had a decent light while I built one.)

I would suggest you read the thread here "Anyone played with the new DX P7 bike light?", if you haven't already. It covers the good, the bad, and the ugly. It remains an excellent lumen per dollar value. They did cut corners to hit that price, though.

A note about specifications. LED outputs are measured under laboratory conditions that include temperature control and maximum recommended currents, and the highest output bins (selected for their performance). These measurements don't use a lens or reflector.

You tend not to get premium bins with an inexpensive light. You can look up the binning specifications sheet for SSC P7 C and D bin outputs to determine how much difference there is in output.

The driver apparently varies from one light to the next, but most deliver about 2.4 not the full 2.8 A. The datasheet may tell you how much that drops output, but likely 5-10%.

There isn't a lot of contact area between the mounting pill and the light body, so heat does not get away from the LED as quickly as it should, so the LED will run hotter and produce less light per watt. Instead of being maybe 20 C above ambient it will may be over 60 C depending on how air flow and ambient temps. But at a guess, a 10-20% loss to heat, maybe more.

Then the reflector is likely to take about 10%. So that is a 25-40% lower output out the front that the lab specs for that LED. A well designed light for thermal control will be in the 15-25% range. Some questioned whether there was even 500 lumens out the front of the early versions once warmed up. They did not have thermal paste to help thermal management.

That said, I rode a 500 lumen HID that was a bit too much for the street unless aimed off to the right. The MS-808 is spreads its output more. Some riders tape off the top to reduce glare to oncoming motorists and use two. As you can see in his post, Pe2er and many others use one with great success.

There will be new LEDs. One may work to replace the P7 but the space for a different driver is tight so that may mean a separate control box to house the driver, though maybe you could drive two lights with the right driver. Some have bought this light knowing they will gut it at some point down the road and just use the body as a shell to hold completely different heatsink/lens/led and driver. As someone who took that route with a different light body, I can say that you can get very good results if you have a modicum of soldering and mechanical skills with simple hand tools and have an upgradable system, have fun if you are into mechanical or electronic things, but you won't save money.

So ride one and see. If you need more light, buy a second or even a third. Also check out Geomangear if you are in the US, as by all accounts, he does a great job of support and has separate heads, chargers, and batteries.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks BrianMC, my answer would simply have been "Yes" ;)

For what it is worth; I use this light for commuting (on HIGH constantly) throught rural and city areas.
 
:welcome:
We all started out trying to figure this stuff out......... So ride one and see. If you need more light, buy a second or even a third. Also check out Geomangear if you are in the US, as by all accounts, he does a great job of support and has separate heads, chargers, and batteries.

Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot Bry for your responce !!!

I do not have the light yet, so i have not had a chance to take it appart and figure out how these LED systems work ( it is still in the mail on it's way ). I am just eager to get my hands on it and figure it out and mod it.

I wanted one good/cheap light that i can mod later on or if parts are available now. The thermal paste you talk about is it ont he back of the LED that sticks it to the sink ? Can i use CPU thermal paste or do i need something more harder/resistant ?

Also, the batteries .... does anyone make a battery replaces the 4 x 18650s or are there better alternatives for ligher weight / longer life ?
 
Thanks a lot Bry for your responce !!!?

You are welcome. Howver, you need to read some of this yourself to form your own opinions. Use the Google box at the top of this forum. Another place you can get info is:

http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=124

Also a lot on this light in their bike lights forum (not DIY).

Remember to check the older pages or google them for whatever you want to know. Same as for here.

I do not have the light yet, so i have not had a chance to take it appart and figure out how these LED systems work ( it is still in the mail on it's way ). I am just eager to get my hands on it and figure it out and mod it.

Don't break it. EL34 did one in in the 'Anyone played with' thread. Take care and learn from his oops.

I wanted one good/cheap light that i can mod later on or if parts are available now. The thermal paste you talk about is it on the back of the LED that sticks it to the sink ? Can i use CPU thermal paste or do i need something more harder/resistant ?

Google thermal paste here and in the MTBF forum. You will get good sources, too. Also check it out in the 'Anyone played with' thread. Yours should now have thremal paste under the LED mount as that was an early update. It sounds like some have had to apply it to the heat sink flange- body, but the factory may be doing that now, too.

Also, the batteries .... does anyone make a battery replaces the 4 x 18650s or are there better alternatives for ligher weight / longer life ?

Google this topic in both forums. I think there is a thread on this question in the MTBR forum.

But as pe2er would say: the short answer is no.

The Google Search field at the top of this thread is your first resource.
 
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But as pe2er would say: the short answer is no.
Either that, or I would say.. maybe!

Here is a thread on fabricating our own battery pack for the Magicshine MJ-808: Homebrew battery packs for Magicshine P7. It might be what you are looking for.

As said before, please read: "Anyone played with the new DX P7 bike light?"

PS: Today was the first time I commuted again since christmas. I Actually got flashed by an oncoming motorist to dim my Magicshine. I Had it on in Strobe in daylight conditions :nana:
 
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See!? It has enough lumens!

Hoping that the OP will forgive a little OT to pe2er: What a wuss! On Strobe!? Hurt his poor little eyeses did the wittle baybee? Double :nana::nana:.

Jeesh!

Too bad you didn't have one on the helmet to kick full on and aim straight at him!

Another reason you might want two, OP!
 

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