help me ressurect my favorite light

tubed

Enlightened
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
297
Hi all,
One of my favorite lights of all time is a programable Foursevens Quark AA from about12 years ago. I lost track of it for several years then found it in a drawer. Now won't turn on (sort of). I put in fresh batteries, cleaned the threads w a Qtip. Sometimes when manipulating the tail cap it will blink on for a second- when almost completely unscrewed. The only damage i can see is on the threads of the tailcap (where switch is) there is a small patch of corrosion?, oxidation? - something that looks rough and different color (not rust). BTW - i have an old thrunite with the same problem. Any ideas on how to fix? From what I can see, this light is not made any more.
 
If that is not making a difference, take the tail cap back off and get a piece of wire, paper clip is good, and bend it so you can hold it firmly between the back of the batteries and the end of the battery tube, keeping the light on. If that makes it work, the connection issue is in the switch. If so, with a pair of small needle nose pliers, you can grab the two holes in the aluminum ring holding the switch in and turn it. Sometimes, it is just loose. If it's tight, loosen and remove it, and dump the switch out. Then you can clean the mating surfaces between them. If that does not fix it, at least all you need is a new switch or whole tail cap from them.
Try this trouble shooting tip from Hondo to see if the trouble is with the switch. If you need to replace the switch, you may be able to get one from Prometheus at darksucks.com. They bought the Foursevens brand & are making Quarks, Mini's, & Preons. Sadly, none with the tactical interface due to the Surefire patents & lawsuits. There is also a seller on eBay listing switch mechanisms for the Quarks.
 
See if you can short across the tube and battery to make the connection the switch would have made and if perhaps you can take apart the light itself unscrewing the head from the body tube. Corrosion sometimes in threads of the tube and sometimes on the light engine itself where the tube connects to the driver can stop power.
 
Thanks all. I'll get on those. Don't really understand the physics behind the pocket clip thing but will investigate and get back to you.
 
Ok... 4 minutes after my last response and ill just say......SCEman you are the man (woman or person)!!!
I did not even know the pocket clip had its own (strange) adjustment ring that is part of the body assembly. Loosend, tightened it and Bam.
Woop, woop. back in business
That's why I love this site.
 
I then tried the same trick on my dead Thrunite S300C2 (second favorite light). It helped but I was only able to get 2 of the 3 settings going again.
 
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