Help me seymore!!!

[MBQuimby]

I just purchased the Streamlite Night COM w/ red LEDs....the original one, not the new one with the laser. I have attached it to a tactical shotgun because I liked the idea of being able to choose just how much light I am throwing, i.e. if I have my eyes adjusted to the dark, I have the option of using the LEDs instead of the xenon. I don't want to instantly broadcast my whereabouts to the bad guy if I can help it. BUT I also want to have the option of blinding the bad guy with a really bright light and the +/- 72 lumen xenon isn't going to get that job done. I know that the light has a 4.8 volt 0.9 Amp high pressure xenon bulb that is running off of 2 CR123s. (I think it is a T-1 1/2 but I'm not sure...I have read that it is the same bulb that is in the Streamlite Twin Task.) What I would like to know is what is the brightest bulb I can swap the original one out for that will still fit. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Wasn't that feed me Seymore?


And for the answer to your question I think there is something that'll work but you need an incan guy to tell you the right thing. Sorry

 

[MBQuimby]

incan is short for incandescent...right?

I'm still trying to learn the lingo

 

[kelmo]

Welcome to CPF!

"I'm a big green Mutha from outer space..."

Get some night vision goggles if you want to stay hidden. If your eyes are dark adapted, chances are so will be your opponents.

kelmo

 

[MBQuimby]

thanks for the tactical advise, i'll pass up the debate on colored light/brightness levels as they relate to MOUNT applications in hopes that I can redirect the thread back towards the original question. Anybody? As in depth and technical of a bunch this forum houses surely someone knows the best bulb. Pretty please, lol. Thanks!

 

[MBQuimby]

begging at this point.

 

[Howecollc]

Since no one else has taken this on, I'll offer what I can, though my Streamlight knowledge is rusty and limited.

If the bulb of your Night COM is held in a manner similar to the picture on page 2 of this PDF, then you can probably use this bulb for 114 lumens of output. Or for the highest possible output, you could use this bulb along with 2 of these IMR123 rechargeable batteries and this charger for 211 lumens of output. 2 of these rechargeable batteries will provide the same voltage when placed under load as the 3 throw away CR123 batteries normally required to run the TL-3 lamp. A little reading will explain more about how the rechargeables manage this. The TL-3 lamp, when run for very long (more than 5 minutes?), will melt the plastic lens of your light. However, considering you only planned to use the incandescent part for short bursts, it would be fine.

I'm pretty sure the LEDs in your light can handle the extra voltage of the rechargeables, but you may want to ask around here.

If you're certain that your light's Xenon bulb is identical to the one in the Twin Task, then posting a question similar to "has anyone switched a 2 x 123 Twin Task bulb for a TL-2 or TL-3 bulb" may get you some more responses.

 

[R@ndom]

Since no one else has taken this on, I'll offer what I can, though my Streamlight knowledge is rusty and limited.

If the bulb of your Night COM is held in a manner similar to the picture on page 2 of this PDF, then you can probably use this bulb for 114 lumens of output. Or for the highest possible output, you could use this bulb along with 2 of these IMR123 rechargeable batteries and this charger for 211 lumens of output. 2 of these rechargeable batteries will provide the same voltage when placed under load as the 3 throw away CR123 batteries normally required to run the TL-3 lamp. A little reading will explain more about how the rechargeables manage this. The TL-3 lamp, when run for very long (more than 5 minutes?), will melt the plastic lens of your light. However, considering you only planned to use the incandescent part for short bursts, it would be fine.

I pretty sure the LEDs in your light can handle the extra voltage of the rechargeables, but you may want to ask around here.

If you're certain that your light's Xenon bulb is identical to the one in the Twin Task, then posting a question similar to "has anyone switched a 2 x 123 Twin Task bulb for a TL-2 or TL-3 bulb" may get you some more responses.

If you wanna risk it, then there are always IMR and 1794 :devil:

 

[Howecollc]

I stand corrected. FM 1794 is the highest output bulb you may be able to stuff in the Task Lite. 21 watts of blinding white light for 10 minutes (probably 10 times longer than you need to melt the bulb-holder).

 

[MBQuimby]

Since no one else has taken this on, I'll offer what I can, though my Streamlight knowledge is rusty and limited.

If the bulb of your Night COM is held in a manner similar to the picture on page 2 of this PDF, then you can probably use this bulb for 114 lumens of output. Or for the highest possible output, you could use this bulb along with 2 of these IMR123 rechargeable batteries and this charger for 211 lumens of output. 2 of these rechargeable batteries will provide the same voltage when placed under load as the 3 throw away CR123 batteries normally required to run the TL-3 lamp. A little reading will explain more about how the rechargeables manage this. The TL-3 lamp, when run for very long (more than 5 minutes?), will melt the plastic lens of your light. However, considering you only planned to use the incandescent part for short bursts, it would be fine.

I'm pretty sure the LEDs in your light can handle the extra voltage of the rechargeables, but you may want to ask around here.

If you're certain that your light's Xenon bulb is identical to the one in the Twin Task, then posting a question similar to "has anyone switched a 2 x 123 Twin Task bulb for a TL-2 or TL-3 bulb" may get you some more responses.

Thanks man. That gives me a good starting point. I think 114 will probably be enough for what I need without going the recharge route. Thanks again!

Oh yeah, One more thing....

are the T 1, T2, T3, ect.... different sizes of bulb diameter, pin distance, or do they represent level of brightness?

 

[Howecollc]

The Streamlight model names like TL-2 or TL-3 don't have anything to do with specifications.

But if you're referring to specs listed for a bulb (as in T-3), the T stands for tubular shape, and the #3 means it is 3/8" in diameter. A T-1.5 is 1 1/2 eighths of an inch in diameter or 3/16". All light bulbs are based on this eighth of an inch scale. A standard 40 watt fluorescent bulb is called a T-12, and is indeed 1 1/2" in diameter. A household 60 watt bulb is called an A-19, where the "A" describes the "ambient" shape of the 2 3/8" diameter bulb.

The letter "G" is used to describe the "globe" shaped bulbs that go around many vanity mirrors, but when a "G" is used for specs of miniature bulbs used in flashlights, it's describing the type of base that the bulb has (as in G-4). The 4 in G-4 is the spacing in mm between the pins of a bi-pin bulb. The Streamlight bulbs for your light are G-2 bases.

Level of brightness around here is pretty much always stated in lumens, and almost never in candlepower. Odd considering the forum name, huh?

 

[MBQuimby]

The Streamlight model names like TL-2 or TL-3 don't have anything to do with specifications.

But if you're referring to specs listed for a bulb (as in T-3), the T stands for tubular shape, and the #3 means it is 3/8" in diameter. A T-1.5 is 1 1/2 eighths of an inch in diameter or 3/16". All light bulbs are based on this eighth of an inch scale. A standard 40 watt fluorescent bulb is called a T-12, and is indeed 1 1/2" in diameter. A household 60 watt bulb is called an A-19, where the "A" describes the "ambient" shape of the 2 3/8" diameter bulb.

The letter "G" is used to describe the "globe" shaped bulbs that go around many vanity mirrors, but when a "G" is used for specs of miniature bulbs used in flashlights, it's describing the type of base that the bulb has (as in G-4). The 4 in G-4 is the spacing in mm between the pins of a bi-pin bulb. The Streamlight bulbs for your light are G-2 bases.

Level of brightness around here is pretty much always stated in lumens, and almost never in candlepower. Odd considering the forum name, huh?

Gotcha. How do you guys know all this stuff? Yall must really like your lights, lol. In all seriousness, thanks for the help. One more question while I have got you cornered. On a G-4 light, could you bend the pins to fit in a G-2 base or is that generally not a good idea?

 

[Howecollc]

Gotcha. How do you guys know all this stuff? Yall must really like your lights, lol. In all seriousness, thanks for the help. One more question while I have got you cornered. On a G-4 light, could you bend the pins to fit in a G-2 base or is that generally not a good idea?

The pins are very flexible and will take a lot of bending without breakage, however, I believe G4 pins are thicker than G2s, so they may not fit in the socket. I'm not 100% on the difference in pin diameter, though, so you might ask around. Also, the diameter of the glass tube of most G4 base bulbs will be too large to fit thru a reflector opening made for a G2 base bulb.

Also, a correction. I mistakenly put a hyphen between the G and 4 in my earlier post. Bulb bases actually are written G4, G2, etc.