Help - want a cordless soldering iron...

[Phaserburn]

I currently have a super cheapo corded electric iron I've used in the past from Rat Shack. It's slow to heat, clumsy (for me, being fairly non-tech) and awkward due to the wire.

I have read umpteen negative posts on cold soldering, so that seems to be out. But are there any good small, wireless units you'd recommend? Primarily, I'm just looking to solder 5mm and star led leads, small electronic wires, things like that; very light duty stuff. I've seen battery powered ones and butane ones. Which is right for me? I wouldn't mind either one. My priority is easy, easy, easy more than super cheap.

This is actually always been my barrier to being a modder myself. What have you used that you like?

 

[RepProdigious]

Ive got a butane powered Portasol and i love it! Heats up quick and gets mighty hot but can also be set to lower temperatures! As with cars, electric just doesn't cut it when you want some power!

Only downside is that you'll have to buy some gas every now and then

[edit] I just checked, ive got the 'SuperPro' kit.... As with anything, if it has super or pro in the name is must be nice but this has BOTH!
[/edit]

 

[alpg88]

i tried most of them, all battery powered are crap. imo.
butane otoh are great, i bought one from radio shack for 19.99, and it lasts me for a year already, thou tip i already changed (expensive, half the price of the iron itself), but it worth it, small, heats up fast, no wires..ect. few years ago i had professional Weller pyropen, that one was awesome, i would highly recommend it, thou it was about $100.
but you don't wanna leave propane irons for long period of time burning, and just sitting, tips go bad if you do, shut it off as soon as you're done.

 

[Nitroz]

+1 on what everyone else has said. You can get the pyropen for $54 plus shipping. I have one and it's the way to go.

 

[Armed_Forces]

If you're having difficulties learning how to solder you sure as hell don't want anything "cordless". You need temperature control for doing the type of soldering you want to do and you ain't gonna get it with those cheap *** POS irons. The butane ones are good for portability and wire/connector type joints but are totally unsuited for SMT work.


I suspect you have a false assumption:

Just because you are doing "light duty stuff" in no way means you can accomplish this effectively with a light duty soldering iron. It's quite the opposite! The smaller the object being soldered, the greater the care and precision needed. That's why you need the temperature regulation because too much heat kills the component and/or easily overheats the joint.



I cut my chops on a Weller TCP/WTCP soldering station and they are still a good place for beginners to start because you can pick them up used for a song. eBay or a local HAM shop can help you out there. If you want to purchase something new and more current/up to date I would suggest a Hakko 936. Beware of Chinese clones/knock-offs! Hakko is hard to beat for price/performance. I use a Hakko FM-202 station. Tip selection is awesome! :thumbsup:

 

[DM51]

I'm going to move this to MMM, where there have been numerous previous threads on soldering.

 

[Navin_R_Johnson]

+1 to what Armed forces said.

I've had one of the butane soldering irons for years. They are very handy for many tasks, but I wouldn't do any work on flashlight electronics with it.

A few months ago, I picked up a Hakko 936 at a Fry's sale for $59. It is way better for this kind of work. I can't see wanting anything more for occasional personal use.

 

[Phaserburn]

Seems to be a difference of opinion here on whether or not a butane model is appropriate for leds/electronics.

If going with a Hakko, what temp is best for this kind of work? Is there a type of solder that works better?

 

[RepProdigious]

My butane iron is fine for doing the more precise/sensitive stuff, you just have to set the temperature right and keep checking it.....

One thing you do have to keep in mind; DO NOT USE A BUTANE SOLDERING IRON IN VERY TIGHT PLACES!!!!! The exhaust will destroy anything up to 5 inches in front of it (this sucks when for example you are working deep inside the dashboard of a car, trust me!)..... Also, dont aim the thing at your face/hands, just dont

 

[65535]

Personally I recommend a good Weller or Hacko (Metcal used to be a name, now are OKi or something don't know about quality) STATION not just a hand held.

If you are hell bent on a portable cordless iron get a butane unit and learn to set it properly. Also learn where it exhausts and that the exhaust is the same temperature as the tip, only it gives off more heat to convection.

 

[CarlR]

I had a butane powered torch that came with a soldering tip attachment. It worked well as a torch but I definitely would *not* suggest this for soldering anything important... Maybe if your are getting into stained glass.

 

[Nitroz]

Seems to be a difference of opinion here on whether or not a butane model is appropriate for leds/electronics.

If going with a Hakko, what temp is best for this kind of work? Is there a type of solder that works better?

I sugguested the Pyropen based on you wanted something portable, and it is affordable too. The pyropen is adjustable and can be used with delicate parts but of course you must be careful. It also come with a hot air nozzle which is a bonus for some light duty reflow, and heat shrink.

In true CPF fashion though, I bought both a Pyropen and a Weller WES51 soldering station which is excellent!

Good luck on your quest for a soldering iron.

As said above watch out for the fake Hakko, I was burned(LOL) and bought one that was a knockoff and it was a piece of junk!

 

[spencer]

I learned to solder on a cheap Radio Shack one that abused badly to make it work properly (like dunking the tip in water to cool it down). I was actually fairly skilled with it. I purchased a Hakko 936 and the difference was unreal. I will never be able to solder with a cheap iron again. It is temperature controlled and heats up really fast.

You wanted to know about what solder to use. A 60/40 solder is pretty decent and readily available. There are better solders out there but 60/40 is decent. I would recommend not using a lead free solder. Too hard to work with.

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

I've got a Hakko 936, and (as I've said in previous threads) I love it. It's just about perfect for flashlight purposes. :thumbsup: