Help with extra lighting for truck?

[iroc409]

Hello everyone!

I am an automotive lighting novice, but have done a little bit of reading (here and elsewhere), and want to improve the lighting on my vehicle. I have a 2009 Toyota Tacoma, which has what I would consider fairly decent headlights already, but I would like some more performance. Before I knew better, I installed a set of Silverstars, and I have a set of off road lights that can be switched automatically with the high beams.

I am not happy with the Silverstars or the off road lights. The off road lights are far too big, get run into by everyone and knocked out of whack (including myself), and are unusable for 99% of my driving. I am kind of tired of having them stick out on the front end.

We take the truck on a lot of camping trips, and 1-2 long road trips a year (4500+ miles). Usually one of those trips is during winter, and we are often on twisty, dark back roads (national parks, national forests, etc). In the city, my lighting is pretty adequate, but leaves much to be desired in the back roads and even on the empty winter highways (relatively).

I have been eyeing the Hella headlight modules, mostly the 90mm units. My idea was to use some combination of them (2-4 of them) as extra lighting, and remove my off road lights and light bar. I have been planning to do a custom mount in the grille, which is about the easiest and least destructive place to mount them.

I am also planning on upgrading the factory headlights, but don't really want to modify them or retrofit anything. My idea was either to mount four on the front end, two low beams and two high beams, or two low beams, or some other combination.

If they were properly mounted and aimed per the procedure specified on Stern's website, could I use the low beam Hellas to augment my factory headlights in traffic? Could I mount two low beam modules, and use them on the highway, or mount four lights, and have two low beams on in traffic and have the two high beam modules come on with my high beams? Would that be a useful upgrade?

I have considered overwattage H4 bulbs, if that would be appropriate, but I also drive with my headlights on all the time (work requirement made habit). I am not sure I want to always be driving that much light. I have seen 55/100W H4 bulbs. Could I mount a pair of Hella low beam modules to help the low beams out, and use the 100w high beams for extra light, instead of mounting four Hellas? The reason I ask is that I am a also a little leery of running basically 6 60W+ bulbs when the high beams and Hellas are on (if running four Hellas). The truck seems to handle two factory high beams and the two 100w off road lights, but I don't have the "heavy duty" alternator and I'm not sure how much is too much.

Is this all just a dumb idea, and I should just get good H4's and forget about it? I would really like to have the extra light on these back roads, but I need something more useful than my current solution.

Thank you!

 

[-Virgil-]

I have a 2009 Toyota Tacoma, which has what I would consider fairly decent headlights already

They're reasonably good.

Before I knew better, I installed a set of Silverstars

Sounds like you've already realized this was an error.

We take the truck on a lot of camping trips, and 1-2 long road trips a year (4500+ miles). Usually one of those trips is during winter, and we are often on twisty, dark back roads (national parks, national forests, etc). In the city, my lighting is pretty adequate, but leaves much to be desired in the back roads and even on the empty winter highways (relatively).

Inadequate how, exactly? You can't see far enough? Not wide enough? Too much backscatter in falling snow?

I have been eyeing the Hella headlight modules, mostly the 90mm units.

Some of them are quite good. Many of them are not listed on the US vendor sites.

My idea was to use some combination of them (2-4 of them) as extra lighting, and remove my off road lights and light bar. I have been planning to do a custom mount in the grille, which is about the easiest and least destructive place to mount them.

Grille mount is no good. Nowhere near rigid enough to maintain proper aim, which will shift and drift and rattle around with road vibration and hood opening/closing. Lamps really need to be mounted to a rigid structural member.

My idea was either to mount four on the front end, two low beams and two high beams, or two low beams, or some other combination. If they were properly mounted and aimed per the procedure specified on Stern's website, could I use the low beam Hellas to augment my factory headlights in traffic?

Yes.

Could I mount two low beam modules, and use them on the highway, or mount four lights, and have two low beams on in traffic and have the two high beam modules come on with my high beams?

I don't see why not. Everything would have to have relays and proper wiring. How many modules of which type to buy depends on your budget, really. I think you'd get better results by buying one Xenon low beam module and one Xenon high beam module and power the one with the low beams and the other (or both) with the high beams, rather than getting two halogen lows and two halogen highs. But you'd also spend more money on the Xenons.

I am also planning on upgrading the factory headlights, but don't really want to modify them or retrofit anything.

Philips Xtreme Power is the best currently-available stock-wattage bulb. Osram 70/65w H4 produces more light than that while remaining compatible with stock wiring. Sounds like you've already learned not to put in blue-glass bulbs.

I also drive with my headlights on all the time (work requirement made habit)

Do they make an exception for vehicles equipped with daytime running lights?

I have seen 55/100W H4 bulbs

Not compatible with your unmodified wiring, and it is difficult to modify the wiring successfully on a truck such as yours.

I don't have the "heavy duty" alternator

Your "non heavy duty" alternator is likely still up to any of the tasks you've described here.

 

[iroc409]

Inadequate how, exactly? You can't see far enough? Not wide enough? Too much backscatter in falling snow?

All of the above. I would like more distance for unlit interstate, and more width for winding back roads. The factory light pattern is not bad, but I would really appreciate more light. I can vividly remember a late night entering a park (Yosemite I think) that I really, really wished we had more lights. I didn’t have the off road lights then, but even my girlfriend said she wished we had them then, even with their awful light pattern.

Snow is definitely a problem too. We’ve been caught in a few bad storms where extra lighting would have been beneficial. Although, I almost think a rear-facing brighter red fog may be just as useful. Most of the time, lower speed is required. I’m worried about some [expletive deleted] running into us from behind trying to drive too fast in that weather.

Some of them are quite good. Many of them are not listed on the US vendor sites.

Are there others you might recommend over what I have already viewed? How difficult would they be to obtain from non-US vendors?

Grille mount is no good. Nowhere near rigid enough to maintain proper aim, which will shift and drift and rattle around with road vibration and hood opening/closing. Lamps really need to be mounted to a rigid structural member.

Absolutely, they would not actually be mounted to the grille. I’ve done some brainstorming and such, and it will be relatively easy to create a sturdy bracket mounted to the truck’s frame—most likely to the same location the current light bar is mounted. The lights will be “in” the grille, but not mounted to it.

I don't see why not. Everything would have to have relays and proper wiring. How many modules of which type to buy depends on your budget, really. I think you'd get better results by buying one Xenon low beam module and one Xenon high beam module and power the one with the low beams and the other (or both) with the high beams, rather than getting two halogen lows and two halogen highs. But you'd also spend more money on the Xenons.

Xenons are definitely not out of the question, but the Hella Xenon modules are at $500 a piece and outside my budget. The only option would likely be salvage units, which I am not really aware of any OEM units designed to be used outside of a housing like the Hellas (I’m sure there could be some). Halogen would also be a lot more reliable than cheap Chinese stuff, and possibly salvage parts.

Philips Xtreme Power is the best currently-available stock-wattage bulb. Osram 70/65w H4 produces more light than that while remaining compatible with stock wiring. Sounds like you've already learned not to put in blue-glass bulbs.

The Osrams you mention are at the top of my list for candidates, followed by the Philips Xtreme Power bulbs.

Do they make an exception for vehicles equipped with daytime running lights?

No exceptions, even for DRLs. I don’t use my truck for work though, it’s just a habit. I actually would like to install the factory DRL option (basically plug in a relay), but I need to do more research. It seems some people have had the DRLs damage the headlight housing. The front signal lights are used as DRLs on the Tacomas.

Not compatible with your unmodified wiring, and it is difficult to modify the wiring successfully on a truck such as yours.

I don’t think this truck has negatively-switched headlamps, at least at the bulb. I may mis-understand the system, however.

Your "non heavy duty" alternator is likely still up to any of the tasks you've described here.

That is good to know. A lot of stuff is running in the truck during winter drives, and I just wasn’t sure how much all that stuff draws.


I guess first of all then, should I even bother with the idea of adding a headlight wiring harness? I have not checked yet for voltage drop at the headlights, but plan to do so. I see no sense in spending the cost and effort in building a headlight harness if it is not necessary.

Second of all, if I am sticking with the idea of adding some Hella modules, I think I am mostly looking at two different options.

One option is to use the separate 90mm high and low beam Hella modules, two of each. This would mean four 65-watt H9 bulbs, and would be the most light—especially during hi-beam use.

The other option would be using two of the 90mm bi-halogen units. This was actually a new interest I had today, particularly if running all four H9 bulbs would be a problem for the electrical system. It sounds like it won’t, however.

The four lights would be a lot more light (twice as much, thereabouts), but add a little complexity in mounting and wiring.

Of those two ideas, which would be the better solution? Are there other ideas to consider?

 

[-Virgil-]

All of the above. I would like more distance for unlit interstate,

Pretty much all of us would, when driving with low beams. Most of us routinely overdrive them! You should start by putting in better headlight bulbs; the long-life items that are factory equipment significantly shorten both the reach and width of the beam compared to higher-performing variants.

We’ve been caught in a few bad storms where extra lighting would have been beneficial. Although, I almost think a rear-facing brighter red fog may be just as useful.

Have you read Stern's page about red rear fog lamps? When properly installed and used, they are of great safety benefit.

Are there others you might recommend over what I have already viewed?

Depends on exactly what you decide you want to do. Some of the US variants are not only less effective in bad weather than the European variants, but are also ridiculously priced. If you buy a ready-to-go Xenon module from a Hella USA distributor, it costs over $500 (as you found). THat's largely because of the ridiculous markup on the ballast and bulb. You can do much better buying just the projector module and going shopping yourself for suitable bulbs and ballasts. You can even get very good selective yellow bulbs for them; Philips makes them and they are quite a wonder to drive with in bad weather (and no, they do not produce green light; it's yellow).

How difficult would they be to obtain from non-US vendors?

My set came from Stern. There was a wait involved; he ordered them in from Germany.

No exceptions, even for DRLs.

Ah. Non-headlamp-based DRLs (e.g., front turn signal DRLs) are a much more effective deal.

some people have had the DRLs damage the headlight housing

Interesting. Would want some more details on exactly what's happening, and to whom, and with what kind of bulbs.

I don’t think this truck has negatively-switched headlamps, at least at the bulb.

Most Japanese vehicles do have ground-switched headlamp circuits, Toyota's headlamp circuits have been particularly intricate for many years, and the latest models often have computerized control of the lamps, making it harder to splice in relays without causing issues.

One option is to use the separate 90mm high and low beam Hella modules, two of each. This would mean four 65-watt H9 bulbs

That's if you use the ordinary U.S.-spec version of the modules. There are also H7 US and ECE versions, and H1 ECE versions.

The other option would be using two of the 90mm bi-halogen units

Meh, I wouldn't. Get Xenons instead.

 

[iroc409]

Pretty much all of us would, when driving with low beams. Most of us routinely overdrive them! You should start by putting in better headlight bulbs; the long-life items that are factory equipment significantly shorten both the reach and width of the beam compared to higher-performing variants.

I think my headlights are good for about 60, maybe 65MPH. Any faster than that, and I feel I am out-driving them. There was a highway in Utah that had a "test" zone of 80MPH limits. I tried it, but it was way too fast and had to back off. I was being passed like crazy! Gas mileage much above 65 takes a big dive, too.

Have you read Stern's page about red rear fog lamps? When properly installed and used, they are of great safety benefit.

Do you have a link? I tried to find it on the site and Google, but couldn't find it.

Depends on exactly what you decide you want to do. Some of the US variants are not only less effective in bad weather than the European variants, but are also ridiculously priced. If you buy a ready-to-go Xenon module from a Hella USA distributor, it costs over $500 (as you found). THat's largely because of the ridiculous markup on the ballast and bulb. You can do much better buying just the projector module and going shopping yourself for suitable bulbs and ballasts. You can even get very good selective yellow bulbs for them; Philips makes them and they are quite a wonder to drive with in bad weather (and no, they do not produce green light; it's yellow).

This has my interest... I would definitely do Xenon if I could get a reliable system for a reasonable cost. Do you have a specific module in mind, and is Stern the best place to go? Do these use the standard bulb and ballast then? I am certainly interested in selective yellow as well, and I think it might be a big help for our winter trips. As I understand it from Stern's article, the selective yellow color also would not be detrimental on clear days as well. If I picked up brand new bulbs and modules, could I get away with a used OEM ballast?

Interesting. Would want some more details on exactly what's happening, and to whom, and with what kind of bulbs.

Well, it's a small quantity of complaints so far. It very well could be simply malfunction, or user error--installing the wrong bulbs.

The signal lights do not operate unless flashing or in DRL mode (they are not markers). The claim is that the signal lamp lens inside the headlight housing is getting scorched from the DRLs. Supposedly this is with the stock bulb. I think they are 1157, but can't remember. Another claimed the mounting point was getting damaged by the heat.

Most Japanese vehicles do have ground-switched headlamp circuits, Toyota's headlamp circuits have been particularly intricate for many years, and the latest models often have computerized control of the lamps, making it harder to splice in relays without causing issues.

I've heard Toyota very commonly uses ground-switched headlamps. I don't have the wiring schematic in front of me, but before I installed my off road lights I looked it over. It seems the computer does use ground switching, which makes a lot of sense, and really simplifies things I think (the cruise control switch is an ingenious example, in my mind). I have no doubts the actual interior headlight switch is ground-switched.

However, I don't think the headlights are past the headlight relays. It could be I grossly mis-understand the system. The headlights have two positive wires, and one negative. A common ground, and the positive feed for high/low beams. I also tapped the high beam positive wire for my off road lights. The signal wire goes from the driver's side high beam positive, to the in-cab switch, to the relay, to ground. If my understanding is correct, the headlight would have to have one positive wire and two negative wires, and my off road lights would be on all the time if they were ground-switched.

Do I understand this correctly?

Meh, I wouldn't. Get Xenons instead.

Would your recommendation then be first to go Xenon, and if that doesn't work out, go with the 90mm Hella halogen housings with two low beams and two high beams? Are the other bulbs you mentioned (H7, H1) better performers? I think I saw somewhere the H7 mentioned--similar lumens at lower wattage, is that right?

 

[-Virgil-]

I think my headlights are good for about 60, maybe 65MPH.

I suspect they, like many low beams, are good for about 50 mph tops.

Red rear fog page is here. He doesn't list any rear fogs on his site (last time I checked; too lazy to check again right now :-) ) but when I wanted one for my Ford truck about a year and a half ago he had several kinds in stock.

Do you have a specific module in mind, and is Stern the best place to go?

About 6 months ago, I got the redesigned latest-generation ECE RH-traffic Xenon low beam modules from him, which have a sharper cutoff than the US modules and a stronger beam pattern than the earlier units. I'd buy these modules from that vendor again. They use the standard D2S bulb—Philips yellow ones here (listed as "Philips Ultinon 3000K"). Any ballast that'll run a D2S or D2R is fine; working used items are fine. The yellow color works fine in dry weather, too.

The claim is that the signal lamp lens inside the headlight housing is getting scorched from the DRLs. Supposedly this is with the stock bulb. I think they are 1157, but can't remember. Another claimed the mounting point was getting damaged by the heat.

If that's true, it's a safety-related defect, and those affected ought to report it to NHTSA if they're not getting immediate and full satisfaction from Toyota.

The headlights have two positive wires, and one negative. A common ground, and the positive feed for high/low beams.

Interesting; that's a change from past Toyota practice. If you are reporting the circuit design accurately, then yes, it sounds like you understand it correctly.

Would your recommendation then be first to go Xenon, and if that doesn't work out, go with the 90mm Hella halogen housings with two low beams and two high beams?

I'm not sure how the Xenons wouldn't work out (unless you mean pricewise), but two low + two high or one low + one high would depend how much money you have to spend and how many lamps you want to wind up with.

Are the other bulbs you mentioned (H7, H1) better performers? I think I saw somewhere the H7 mentioned--similar lumens at lower wattage, is that right?

The (3rd-gen) H7 and H1 versions of the 90mm module are both newer, more efficient optics than the H9 items, if I understand it correctly. Ask Stern; there may be some other differences as well (sign light, etc.).

 

[iroc409]

Well, thank you very much for your help, Scheinwerfermann. It sounds like my next step is to contact Mr. Stern and see what he suggests. I'll report back what he recommends.

Thank you also for the rear fog article. I do like that idea, and it shouldn't be hard to install.

As I understand, Xenons are not particularly useful as their own high beam because they don't like being switched on and off repeatedly, and take some time to come up to full power (hence the shuttered bi-Xenon). If I could not do bi-Xenons (due to cost), wouldn't it be better to just use two low beam Xenon modules, instead of one low and one high? Two lights would be a simpler installation than four, but I will do whatever makes the most sense in my budget.

Low beam Xenons would improve 80% or more of my out-of-town driving. Perhaps with upgraded H4 high beams and a pair of Xenon low beams, I would achieve what I am looking for.

I also think I am going to go ahead with the DRL installation. The signal DRLs are very effective in these trucks, and I would think if this was a widespread problem, we'd be hearing a lot more about it--particularly with the late lambasting of Toyota.

 

[Hamilton Felix]

With a pickup, it seems natural to get a decent push bar with light mounting tabs. Makes it easier to mount a couple of pairs of auxiliary lights.

 

[iroc409]

With a pickup, it seems natural to get a decent push bar with light mounting tabs. Makes it easier to mount a couple of pairs of auxiliary lights.

My light bar is nice looking and very sturdy. Maybe I'm just overly disappointed with the lights themselves, and if I had better ones I would be happier. I don't use high beams near as much though as lows though, and it's difficult to justify spending as much on something that is off 95% of the time.

 

[Hamilton Felix]

I know how you feel. But cheap foglights are worse than worthless, and cheap driving lights don't help much or last long.

If you have an idea what you're looking for, and you shop carefully, you might be able to pick up some good auxiliary lights used, via eBay, Craigslist, etc.

 

[iroc409]

I know how you feel. But cheap foglights are worth that worthless, and cheap driving lights don't help much or last long.

If you have an idea what you're looking for, and you shop carefully, you might be able to pick up some good auxiliary lights used, via eBay, Craigslist, etc.

My off-road lights aren't cheapies. Not quite as much as Cibie Super Oscars, but more than most lights out there. To their credit, they will put a spotlight very far down the road. When they are aimed right, you can't out-drive them on the highway. Their spot however on winding roads tends to attract my attention, and it is distracting--especially when mis-aligned. My eyes are sucked right in to the spot.

Actually, at 70MPH on a dark interstate, I don't think I've been on a piece of interstate or back roads that had a long enough straight that I could not see the next corner. If the beam hits a big road sign, they are almost painful from the reflected glare.

 

[Hamilton Felix]

Thanks for quoting me and showing me my fumble-fingered typos. ;) Someday I'll learn to proofread. I meant to say "...worse than worthless."

I didn't mean to denigrate your lights at all, just throw in a reminder that cheap fogs don't work in fog because of their poor beam control. Sounds like you feel as I do, that if you're going to buy fog or driving lights, bite bullet and buy decent lights.

Don't rule out those used lights. Sometimes you can get lucky. I have a friend who has incredible luck with all sorts of things at garage sales.

I know what you mean about reflected glare from signs. I still haven't found time to stick the Soltek Fuego HID's on my bike, but I'm sure I'll be seeing a lot more of the reflective road signs that I enjoy.

I acquired some Marchal 950 "Radar" driving pattern lamps. Haven't yet mounted them up. They have almost a butterfly shaped beam when shown on a wall. I remember Daniel Stern saying the "Radar" beam didn't give up quite so soon in light fog. Perhaps having less upward light in the center of the beam helps when the air is not clear.

<sigh> It does seem that really good lighting is generally really expensive... :(

I found these for the '01-04 Tacoma, but not for your '09. http://www.starrhid.com/index.php?p...category_id=59&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

I'm still choking over the price, but really thinking of getting a set for my Crown Victoria. Presently it has TERRIBLE lights.