High CRI SSC P4 -> EX10

MWClint

Enlightened
Joined
May 27, 2008
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Location
Albany, NY
Been wanting to do this for a while, but i thought i'd need a GD EX10 to
use the reflector in that. So today, i figured i would try the cree reflector'd ex10 with the 4000K SSC P4.

i was surprised, the cree ex10 puts out a nice smooth and proper beam with
the P4 in place. A bare p4 emmittor measured out to be similar in height to the
cree star(measured to where the reflector sits on it.) put a layer of thermal
epoxy on the led to isolate the slug and then just soldered it in, centered
the led and let it dry.

ex10seoul2.jpg


ex10seoul3.jpg


beams compared with my 4 edc's, from left to right -
Ra Twisty 100, EX10 SSC P4, Peak Pacific AA U2SW0H, Spy 007

edclights.jpg


edclights2.jpg


for kicks...threw a surefire G2 incan into the mix.
sscvsincan.jpg
 
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Nice mod. I've been interested in both of these lately, neat to see them both in one light.

Also nice beamshots too, I didn't realize the high cri had such a warm tint...
 
EDIT: Superfluous message deleted.

(Message made no sense because it was a test of image protocols and was never intended on being posted. The message was somehow posted when Windows shutdown. :confused:)
 
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hmm. since doing this mod i cannot put this EX10 down. I fear for my other
lights. The Barbolight with 4 of these leds has usurped my P7 mag for
the nightly dog walks and the EX10 broke my EDC rotation and received two
consecutive days on my belt. unheard of! :eek:

Converted it over to the EX10 Ti host.
:twothumbs

polished it up a bit. kinda bad cell phone pic.
ex10ti.jpg
 
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I was checking the SSC P4 dada sheet and noticed that the warm whites have a recommended max current to LED of 800mA's and output about 53 lumens at 350mA's to the LED. CRI is about 93. So, lumens are about 1/2 of the cooler whites. Is this what you have?

Bill
 
I was checking the SSC P4 dada sheet and noticed that the warm whites have a recommended max current to LED of 800mA's and output about 53 lumens at 350mA's to the LED. CRI is about 93. So, lumens are about 1/2 of the cooler whites. Is this what you have?

Bill

these are the S2 bin 4000K, 60-70 lumens @350ma, max 800ma, CRI 93%

I also ordered a few resistors for the "R6" resistor mod to increase the EX10 output in anticipation of the lower flux, but i've yet to see the need to do it.
i'm enjoying the lower low. The low with the Q5 was a tad too bright for me.

I'm driving 4 of these leds at 800mah each in a barbolight. It is quite bright.
I did a beamshot comparision of this light vs a q5 wc@350mah(modded ld10) and also the barbolight vs a stock ex10 on high.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=222317

i would like to grab another Ex10, then i could do a side by side comparison.
 
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Very well done. I really enjoyed my D10 GD+ (closest to my Novatac beam) and regret selling it.

The information from your mod is not healthy for the D10 R2 that I just ordered. I realize the R2 beam is not perfect and smooth... but knowing what I know now with an SSC mod, I'm setting myself up for disappointment when my R2 arrives. Ignorance is bliss, I suppose.
 
Nice mod, MWClint. I find it odd how addictive the high CRI Seoul is. The output os clearly inferior but the colour makes it all worthwhile. It is my preferred light indoors (in an old Q3 / fluPic) but still not enough output in a single LED for me when outside. They ARE coming, though...
 
Been wanting to do this for a while, but i thought i'd need a GD EX10 to
use the reflector in that. So today, i figured i would try the cree reflector'd ex10 with the 4000K SSC P4.

i was surprised, the cree ex10 puts out a nice smooth and proper beam with
the P4 in place. A bare p4 emmittor measured out to be similar in height to the
cree star(measured to where the reflector sits on it.) put a layer of thermal
epoxy on the led to isolate the slug and then just soldered it in, centered
the led and let it dry.

Your thread has inspired me :)
I just received some high CRI Seoul emitters from Mouser today and am preparing to transplant one into my EX10.

I just put some Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive on the LED slug and am letting it dry so that it will be electrically isolated. Is your bare emitter epoxied to the heatsink or "floating" on heat sink compound (like how the original Cree board is in there)?

Do you have (or could you take) any pictures of your end project (inside the head)?

Once last thing :D ... the red and black wires look a bit melted on my EX10 and I was wondering, how do you open up the heatsink to gain access to the other side the board so I can solder in some teflon wire?

Thanks in advance,
Robert
 
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Your thread has inspired me :)
I just received some high CRI Seoul emitters from Mouser today and am preparing to transplant one into my EX10.

I just put some Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive on the LED slug and am letting it dry so that it will be electrically isolated. Is your bare emitter epoxied to the heatsink or "floating" on heat sink compound (like how the original Cree board is in there)?

Do you have (or could you take) any pictures of your end project (inside the head)?

Once last thing :D ... the red and black wires look a bit melted on my EX10 and I was wondering, how do you open up the heatsink to gain access to the other side the board so I can solder in some teflon wire?

Thanks in advance,
Robert

mine is epoxied in, i dont use much so i can swap the led out in the future.
if you just let it float on grease, the led can become off center over time as
the pill can rotate slightly if you use the light as a twisty. the cree sat inside the reflector, so it stays centered.

I havent tried opening the pill, but i think someone disected a d10 pil
and posted pics in the original d10/ex10 thread in the led forum.
i'll see if i can find the posts.

pill disassembly here ->
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2766286
 
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mine is epoxied in, i dont use much so i can swap the led out in the future.
if you just let it float on grease, the led can become off center over time as
the pill can rotate slightly if you use the light as a twisty. the cree sat inside the reflector, so it stays centered.

I havent tried opening the pill, but i think someone disected a d10 pil
and posted pics in the original d10/ex10 thread in the led forum.
i'll see if i can find the posts.

pill disassembly here ->
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2766286

Thanks for the info and the link to the disassembly thread!

So apparently the slug wasn't isolated well enough :eek: A fresh CR123 started smoking :eek: due to an apparent short. I checked it with my DMM (Fluke 87) first and there seemed to be a short--don't know why I tried it with a battery anyway :ohgeez:

So after isolating the slug with more AA, the battery no longer smokes, but the LED doesn't light :( I think the short killed the EX10's driver.

I'm awaiting to hear back from an email I sent to 4sevens to see if I can buy a replacement driver. :eek:

I guess you live and learn (lesson learned: listen to your DMM!! :D)

-Robert
 
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Ouch Robert, thats horrible news!
:(

if you are able to purchase a replacement, would you consider selling the
complete broken brass light engine?
 
Ouch Robert, thats horrible news!
:(

if you are able to purchase a replacement, would you consider selling the
complete broken brass light engine?

I contacted 4sevens, but they don't have any replacement boards and they said that Nitecore won't sell them either :(

-Robert
 

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