high CRI?

[backerspit]

Getting ready to purchase a p60 drop in for a solarforce body that I have had for awhile and noticed on a couple places that there are "high CRI" models available. What is the difference? Some of them also list from 500 to 1300 lumens but I know better than that. I would love to get 500 or better lumens off from the solarforce. Am I expecting too much? What drop in would you guys suggest?

 

[Imon]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_rendering_index

 

[ledmitter_nli]

Getting ready to purchase a p60 drop in for a solarforce body that I have had for awhile and noticed on a couple places that there are "high CRI" models available. What is the difference? Some of them also list from 500 to 1300 lumens but I know better than that. I would love to get 500 or better lumens off from the solarforce. Am I expecting too much? What drop in would you guys suggest?

How about 1,200 lumens out the front of your SolarForce?
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...utral-lights&p=4136138&viewfull=1#post4136138

 

[backerspit]

How about 1,200 lumens out the front of your SolarForce?
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...utral-lights&p=4136138&viewfull=1#post4136138

Thanks, but I'm just looking for a drop in that would put 500 or a little more out the front lumens. That's also why I was wondering about the high cri p60's. With so many Color tints out there, its hard to know what to order. I want to avoid blue or green tints and I have yet to try any of the warm tints but I love the looks of them from some of the lice ive seen on the forums.

 

[yellow]

Please ...
Your useless thread - where You compare some specially selected Led vs. others where You dont even know the tint but give Your constant optinion that all of them must be bad - has been closed for that reason,
so it makes no use to link to it, the outcome (just stated in 1st sentence) will not change

backerspit:
in short You will get a more incan like color an (possibly) colors that are more like in sunlight - on cost for considerably reduced output.
If You are a professional photographer, that might make a differnence but 99 % of that high CRI is internet hype.
You decide
(PS: I dont like my high cri P60 insert - I dont like the incan color and the visibly lower output - and advise to give a nice neutral white tinted led in a 5000 K range a try)
((means: check nailbender`s threads "P60 inserts" in sub-forum custom & modified and get an XM-L powered one. Full power at the high CRI one will be that "about 500 Lumen"; the neutrals more))

 

[CarpentryHero]

The nichia 219 has 92 cri and a color temp of 4500k. It's the only neutral hi cri on the market, the only way to get over 500 lumens with it is in the triple p60 format. EdcPlus makes one for $70 or ask VinhNyugen for what he has to offer
offer



hi cri xpg is 3000k to 3300k color temp and 90 cri.

Nailbender has a hi cri XML dropin but I think it's 3300k color temp and 85+ cri (ask him) custom modified bst section

 

[mvyrmnd]

If You are a professional photographer, that might make a differnence but 99 % of that high CRI is internet hype.
You decide

Personally I can very much tell the difference - and I only take happy snaps with my iPhone.

The last two words there are critical.

I love the Incan-like tint and output from the HCRI XP-G. I have a dozen HCRI lights and 75% of those use this emitter. I find that even though there's less overall output, the improved quality of that output helps me see better.- but remember that my eyes aren't your eyes. Lumens aren't everything - although they are fun ;)

You need to buy one - possibly a cheap way into this is a nailbender P60 dropin with a Nichia 219 or the XP-G - and decide for yourself.

I have a couple of 219 lights aswell, and it's growing on me - but I really do love the warm tint of the XP-G.

 

[SemiMan]

Getting ready to purchase a p60 drop in for a solarforce body that I have had for awhile and noticed on a couple places that there are "high CRI" models available. What is the difference? Some of them also list from 500 to 1300 lumens but I know better than that. I would love to get 500 or better lumens off from the solarforce. Am I expecting too much? What drop in would you guys suggest?

Don't get too hung up on super high lumens. Beam quality, a beam that suits your needs, etc. goes a long long way. Your eye can barely tell 30% brightness differences and throw is related to the square of power so optic design makes a lot more difference than throw.

It is not just about CRI though, it is CRI and color temp. Of note, the Nichia219 is not only in 4500K, it comes in other color temps too. It is just of note as the only thing you can get in the 4000+ range with high CRI.

I think it comes down to how you plan to use your light. In terms of "general purpose" a 4000K Nichia 219 HIGH CRI version is just about perfect. White is white ... there is enough RED for rocks, sand, etc. (or Mammoth caves, or desert), and enough Green/Blue that foliage and artifical colors come through well too. What you are giving up is efficiency, potentially quite a bit compared to new XPG2 cool white.

There is an argument that can be made that high CRI warm white (3000K) is a little easier on your night vision, but I am not sure that that is supported with Cree, though some Lumileds high CRI has very little blue peak. From a practical standpoint, in a flashlight, I have never found much value in warm white. I tried it caving in the summer and did not like it. The only place I personally would use it would be a night light mode where warm whites tend to be more "pleasant". It would be a good around the campfire light.

On the other hand, if I was mainly looking at a task light and needed good visual acuity, I would lean towards something cooler and throw CRI to the wind. That is assuming a nice smooth beam.

All in all the 4000-4500 High CRI Nichia is a wonderfully versatile light source if you don't mind giving up efficiency especially when driven hard.

Semiman

 

[Tiresius]

I think you'll love the 219's. A triple 219 has a good wow-factor. It should give 800ish emitter lumens and somewhere around 500+OTF based on a 3a driver. Very floody and has the horsepower to throw 100yds.

EDIT: 219's are the warmest 4500k CCT emitters I've yet to lay eyes on. Also, the highest CRI for the highest CCT as well.

 

[Norm]

EDIT: 219's are the warmest 4500k CCT emitters I've yet to lay eyes on. Also, the highest CRI for the highest CCT as well.

Just goes to show what they say about opinions, I do not like warm LEDs and would definitely not call a Nicia 219 warm to me it's the perfect neutral emitter.

Not trying to disagree with Tiresius, just pointing out what you read here are just options. Even talking about exactly the same thing peoples opinions are going to vary, as mvyrmnd said

that my eyes aren't your eyes.

Until you see one in person you're really not going to know.

Norm

 

[neutralwhite]

thanks , HCRI surely is not internet hype as it does show colours more deeper as such, and is better still for your eyes then normal 75cri say.

correct?.
thanks.

Please ...
Your useless thread - where You compare some specially selected Led vs. others where You dont even know the tint but give Your constant optinion that all of them must be bad - has been closed for that reason,
so it makes no use to link to it, the outcome (just stated in 1st sentence) will not change

backerspit:
in short You will get a more incan like color an (possibly) colors that are more like in sunlight - on cost for considerably reduced output.
If You are a professional photographer, that might make a differnence but 99 % of that high CRI is internet hype.
You decide
(PS: I dont like my high cri P60 insert - I dont like the incan color and the visibly lower output - and advise to give a nice neutral white tinted led in a 5000 K range a try)
((means: check nailbender`s threads "P60 inserts" in sub-forum custom & modified and get an XM-L powered one. Full power at the high CRI one will be that "about 500 Lumen"; the neutrals more))

 

[SemiMan]

thanks , HCRI surely is not internet hype as it does show colours more deeper as such, and is better still for your eyes then normal 75cri say.

correct?.
thanks.

Yes and no. Technically high CRI just means that it matches a black body emitter curve below 5000K and the sun above.

Frankly, 2700K, 100CRI only shows deep reds and other longer wavelengths. Blues will look flat without any color depth. A lower CRI LED with a blue bias may be able to give some life to that scene. Though colors will look different. There is really no "right" and "wrong".

As you approach 5000K, the blackbody curve starts getting flatter and flatter within the visible spectrum so a good CRI is also generally indicative of a flat even response. That is whey we like getting high CCT with high CRI ... but can only get that up to about 4500K with Nichia. Most would not consider that color warm ... except compared to 6000K and up.

Semiman

 

[neutralwhite]

thanks, but it is possibly to get a Nichia 5000k HCRI one day right?.
or is 4500 as far as it goes?.

that would be good if 5000kHCRI came along.

cheers.

Yes and no. Technically high CRI just means that it matches a black body emitter curve below 5000K and the sun above.

Frankly, 2700K, 100CRI only shows deep reds and other longer wavelengths. Blues will look flat without any color depth. A lower CRI LED with a blue bias may be able to give some life to that scene. Though colors will look different. There is really no "right" and "wrong".

As you approach 5000K, the blackbody curve starts getting flatter and flatter within the visible spectrum so a good CRI is also generally indicative of a flat even response. That is whey we like getting high CCT with high CRI ... but can only get that up to about 4500K with Nichia. Most would not consider that color warm ... except compared to 6000K and up.

Semiman

 

[mvyrmnd]

There is really no "right" and "wrong".

:twothumbs:clap:

This is the single most important thing that the more evangelical folks here need to remember.

Just because one person might prefer something doesn't mean that another will. If person A continues to jam their opinion down person B's throat, then person A deserves :twak:

 

[mvyrmnd]

thanks, but it is possibly to get a Nichia 5000k HCRI one day right?.
or is 4500 as far as it goes?.

that would be good if 5000kHCRI came along.

cheers.

I'm sure anything is possible, once we have the technology to achieve it.

For me, I wouldn't buy a 5000K emitter, no matter it's CRI ;)

 

[neutralwhite]

i know all our eyes, and tinty tastes are different, but why's that ?.
& btw, i see you love the warms,..im heading that way too.

I'm sure anything is possible, once we have the technology to achieve it.

For me, I wouldn't buy a 5000K emitter, no matter it's CRI ;)

 

[Norm]

Rant post removed.

So this topic is kind of petered out for me now.

Let's leave it that way.

Norm

 

[think2x]

I'm a big fan of the Nichia 219 emitter myself. I had a bad run of a few light purchases with horrid green XP-G's in them. Now that being said and because of this part of your post..........

I want to avoid blue or green tints and I have yet to try any of the warm tints but I love the looks of them from some of the lice ive seen on the forums.

I would suggest a drop-in somewhere in the tint range of 4500k-5500k. I have done several emitter swaps in the 4500-5000k range and most of the 5000k ones tend to be a pure white without any of the blues or greens in it yet still lacks the yellow incandescent tint, not that the yellowish tint is bad at all but it's just not for everyone. I guess I'm saying the 4500-5500k range could be considered a "safe zone" of sorts.

 

[dusty99]

but 99 % of that high CRI is internet hype.

Not necessarily correct (at least not for everyone). Blue wavelengths are more difficult than red or green for even healthy eyes to focus sharply, especially at night with dilated pupils. This can be made worse by astigmatism, which I have. I have tested this with a number of LED lights, judging the resolution of the fence and tree at the end of my back yard, just under 100' from my back door. A more neutral, warmer or high CRI LED provides me with greater resolution than a blue-tinted LED, even if 25% less bright. The bluer beams make contrast lines look "fuzzy", as if they can't quite be brought into focus.

 

[Tiresius]

Quote of deleted post removed - Norm

I think the point is that our own eyes see CCT differently. It doesn't matter which manufacturer offered what because it comes down to our personal tastes.

I was giving my own opinion since the OP asked for suggestions. It would be nice to give our own experiences to give the OP a better perspective of what to expect rather than none? It'll give him a list of options to look up and carefully select which one he or she likes. I don't think anyone is trying to endorse any manufacturer here besides their own personal taste relating to the subject of this post.