Sold/Expired High efficient 5A/9A Buck Converter for SST-50, SST-90

[Der Wichtel]

Yes I have the drivers in stock, just send me your order via email.

As for the LEDs I have some sources. I will mail them to you.

 

[DKlaser]

Ok, I received my driver and heat sink today. One question though. How am I supposed to bond the driver to the heat sink so it will be cooled as well? There does not look like a good way to do this that would not involve just filling the cavity with thermal compound and shoving it in on top of it.

 

[Der Wichtel]

you should rather use thermal potting compound or thermal adhesive ( Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive or Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive) than thermal compound/paste.

 

[JacobJones]

So you have the components on the driver completely covered with the arctic silver thermal epoxy?

 

[DKlaser]

So you have the components on the driver completely covered with the arctic silver thermal epoxy?

I have not done anythign yet, I was asking first instead of taking a chance on screwing anything up. DW how do I know if I have the 9a driver? Is there a part number difference on the driver itself?

 

[Der Wichtel]

I usually stick a label on the red wire with the the current achieved during testing.

I usually use aluminumoxide mixed with epoxy as thermal potting compound. Just have a look at some previous pages. It has been discussed several times.

 

[DKlaser]

Ok, good deal. No sticker on this one.....

 

[Der Wichtel]

if you ordered 9A then it is a 9A driver.
You can also use your multimeter and hook it up to the drivers output cables

 

[cdrake261]

Ok, I received my driver and heat sink today. One question though. How am I supposed to bond the driver to the heat sink so it will be cooled as well? There does not look like a good way to do this that would not involve just filling the cavity with thermal compound and shoving it in on top of it.

Depends on your board size...in my case, my driver driver is so large, I actually had to cut the heatsink down to fit my h6flex with about 1mm of clearance between driver and flashlight body. Check out my 3,000 lumen flashlight build for more info.

you should rather use thermal potting compound or thermal adhesive ( Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive or Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive) than thermal compound/paste.

I never seen arctic silver adhesive, just arctic alumina at our fry's....

 

[Der Wichtel]

the adhesive looks like this:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm

I can'T recommend anything else for mounting SST-90 emitteres to the heatsink. It's pretty good

 

[DKlaser]

Bad news.... I was out messing around with my stuff and I noticed this little part sitting next to the driver on my work bench. It is about 1.68mm wide x 3.4mm long. I have not done anything with the driver except handling it for inspection. It appears that it has come from a spot on the board that has the label "C4" next to it. I can make an attempt to solder it back in place if you would like. If not I would like an exchange.

 

[DKlaser]

sorry double post...

 

[DKlaser]

sorry double post...

 

[Der Wichtel]

If you can solder it on yourself you can do it. It's just a capacitor and you don't have to care about polarity.
Otherwise just send it back I'll send you a new one.

 

[DKlaser]

I am going to try to solder it back on when I get back home in a few days. I have a nice iron with a small tip that would be perfect for this. After looking at it and the sink closely I think it was damaged in shipping as the edge of the sink has a nice gouge in it as well and it lined up with the capacitor on the board as it was sort of installed into the sink when it arrived to me. I will let you know... Will it work without this installed at all?

 

[lightliker]

Hello DKlaser,

After reading this post (and possibly neglecting some given answers, ) I would like to ask you some questions.
How does your regulated Buck converterr controls the power?; with less current (maybe below a certain level) or with pulses (fooling our eyes :huh: )
I red somewhere that the SST-90 likes to be pulsed instead of going below a certain minimum current.
What is the real difference between the fixed and the regulated version?
Can I solder the wires by myself (yes I have a Weller 50W soldering station with a nice small point :thumbsup and what length of wires can you deliver with this converter?
Would cooling tape be enough to cool the buck converter at some piece of metal or the housing?
What is the maximum distance between the leds and the buck converter?

Do you have an adress to order an original SST-90 (no Comex on dealextreme....)

Looking forward to your reaction, would like to fool around with some SST-90 's in a water cooled or heatpiped flashlight on 32600 or LEAD bateries.

Regards

Lightliker

 

[DKlaser]

you got the wrong guy, you need DW for this...

 

[Der Wichtel]

Hi,
this is how a buck converter converts the current/voltage:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck_converter

With "pulses" you mean PWM I think:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
However with PWM you can't regulate currrent, as it just turns the light on and off.
But you can use it in conjunction with a driver to dimm the brightness.

The adjustable version can control and regulate the current which is more efficient than PWM dimming. LED efficiency increases as well with current control compared to PWM.

Yes, sure you can replace the wires yourself. The wires are approx. 12xcm long as far as I know. The length depends on wire thickness.
You can use long wires but then you will waste a lot of power across them due to the resistance.

As for the SST-90 just send me an email.
last but not least just have a look over this thread. most of it has been discussed :thumbsup:

 

[lightliker]

Hi DW,

Hi,
this is how a buck converter converts the current/voltage:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck_converter

With "pulses" you mean PWM I think:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
However with PWM you can't regulate currrent, as it just turns the light on and off.
But you can use it in conjunction with a driver to dimm the brightness.

The adjustable version can control and regulate the current which is more efficient than PWM dimming. LED efficiency increases as well with current control compared to PWM.

Yes, sure you can replace the wires yourself. The wires are approx. 12xcm long as far as I know. The length depends on wire thickness.
You can use long wires but then you will waste a lot of power across them due to the resistance.

As for the SST-90 just send me an email.
last but not least just have a look over this thread. most of it has been discussed :thumbsup:

I red this post on the internet:
=======================================================

Re: H6Flex driving Luminus Devices SST90's « Reply #5 on: October 01, 2010, 01:45:16 PM »

---

I have talked to an apps engineer at Luminus. The -50 and -90's both have minimum current thresholds where they MAY or MAY NOT light up. They recommend a minimum of 1A driver and to achieve lower levels to use PWM at 1A. Their LEDs are implemented as a SINGLE large monolithic emitter (NOT an array) and the minimum current requirement is a device physics issue.

I have modified the firmware of the h6flex and all drivers shipping since Sep 29 incorporate this updated firmware.

Obviously some -50 and -90's will work fine at lower currents and some won't...

Anyhow, the h6flex now fully supports the Luminus requirement.
======================================================

What is the minimum level of current that is fed to the sst-90 by your buck converter?

Do you combine current regulating with pwm (the first for preventing the sst-90 getting damaged and the second to dimm it) or is the SST-90m solely regulated by throtteling the current?

 

[lightliker]

you got the wrong guy, you need DW for this...

Sorry!!!!