Der Wichtel
Enlightened
The minimum level is around 0.7A-1A
It is pure current regulation as I said before.
It is pure current regulation as I said before.
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Sold/Expired High efficient 5A/9A Buck Converter for SST-50, SST-90
- Thread starter Der Wichtel
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lightliker
Newly Enlightened
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- Mar 18, 2011
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No offense but I am trying to understand what the best is for the sst-90 when going into the lower modes: current or pwm with current combined.
Der Wichtel
Enlightened
Der Wichtel
Enlightened
9A current? 
Der Wichtel
Enlightened
as described in the datasheet, the input voltage shoul always be at least 2V higher than the output voltage.
In a car the voltage range is between 10V and 15V.
A LED has around 4V with cable losses.
Therefore you can use drive 2 LEDs in series with a single driver for safe operation.
In a car the voltage range is between 10V and 15V.
A LED has around 4V with cable losses.
Therefore you can use drive 2 LEDs in series with a single driver for safe operation.
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Starting at the high end and working down, it's usually best to reduce the current from 9A to 1A. The efficiency will improve with lower current. The color may change some. Below 1A you should use PWM to reduce the average current. You will have pulses of 1A, getting narrower and narrower to reduce the perceived light output. If you reduce the pulse amplitude below 1A, the LED may not light up. It will probably light up down to 0.1A, 0.01A, or even less, but Luminus will not guarantee it will light up below 1A.
If keeping the color constant is critical (photography?), then you can start your PWM at 9A, and the color won't change. You might also want to do this if the driver can't shift modes at 1A or so.
Unfortunately, PWM can cause some interesting effects if you are taking photos or video. Since the light is actually turning on and off at a frequency too high for our eyes to see, it appears to get dimmer. However, some cameras at some settings can see the 'on' and 'off' that we can't. For example, if taking a still photo at 1/400 shutter speed, and the PWM frequency is 200 Hz (invisible to human eyes), and the brightness is set to 50%, the photo could be taken anywhere from complete dark to complete light. I won't even discuss what happens when taking video. It tends to show up as bars across the video.
The short story is that unless the PWM is many times faster than the effective shutter speed, you may see artifacts in your pictures.
If this doesn't clarify the issue, say so and I'll try to make it more clear.
Last edited:
lightliker
Newly Enlightened
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- Mar 18, 2011
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Via Paypal ordered: 1 x adjustable 9A, leads at ONE side (where the coil is located), international and registered mail, totally € 46,50 :wave:
Is this the best way to cool down the buck converter with cooling tape at the side of the microprocessor?
Leads as long as possible (12 cm).
SSR-90 white 5700K ordered at the adress you suggested! :thumbsup:
Input voltage will be 24V, I red that the mounted capacitors can handle 25V.
Now waiting till the funstuff arrives and looking for a nice floody/throwy reflector :lolsign:
Is this the best way to cool down the buck converter with cooling tape at the side of the microprocessor?
Leads as long as possible (12 cm).
SSR-90 white 5700K ordered at the adress you suggested! :thumbsup:
Input voltage will be 24V, I red that the mounted capacitors can handle 25V.
Now waiting till the funstuff arrives and looking for a nice floody/throwy reflector :lolsign:
cdrake261
Enlightened
Will the 5 amp single mod driver fire up three XML?
Der Wichtel
Enlightened
Via Paypal ordered: 1 x adjustable 9A, leads at ONE side (where the coil is located), international and registered mail, totally € 46,50 :wave:
Is this the best way to cool down the buck converter with cooling tape at the side of the microprocessor?
Leads as long as possible (12 cm).
SSR-90 white 5700K ordered at the adress you suggested! :thumbsup:
Input voltage will be 24V, I red that the mounted capacitors can handle 25V.
Now waiting till the funstuff arrives and looking for a nice floody/throwy reflector :lolsign:
Best way is potting the driver with thermal potting compound ( Arctic Silver thermal adhesive, Arctic Alumina)
PS.: next time please contact me before paying anything.
Sure, I just don't know if the XML can handle the 5A.
cdrake261
Enlightened
Your triple XML doesn't seem so bothered by running 5amps from my h6flex. The single mode sounds appealing....
Der Wichtel
Enlightened
Yes I got more than 5A with the XM-L as well during testing but the LEDs were mounted on a very large copper heatsink.
cdrake261
Enlightened
It's not so much a continuous use flashlight as is it's a wow-light
Der Wichtel
Enlightened
sorry, no modes yet
Der Wichtel,
I'm very interested in purchasing one of your 9A Buck Converters to use with a single SST-90 LED. I don't know very much about electronics, therefore I have the following questions. I'm trying to decide whether to use use 2x32650 6000 MAH batteries in serial (8.4v) or 4x18650 3100 MAH batteries in serial (16.8v) with your driver. Would the total power be about the same in either case? Is 8.4v any more efficient than 16.8 volts? Would the heat produced be about the same?
Thanks,
Andy
I'm very interested in purchasing one of your 9A Buck Converters to use with a single SST-90 LED. I don't know very much about electronics, therefore I have the following questions. I'm trying to decide whether to use use 2x32650 6000 MAH batteries in serial (8.4v) or 4x18650 3100 MAH batteries in serial (16.8v) with your driver. Would the total power be about the same in either case? Is 8.4v any more efficient than 16.8 volts? Would the heat produced be about the same?
Thanks,
Andy
