Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
tandem on 01-18-2011 05:54 PM GMT
I read a few dozen pages of a huge RC group thread on this and came away with "my" understanding that for safety reasons, when using this charger in a manual and non-balancing mode, that it is limited to a two Amp charge rate. Then someone in the know on that thread replied and I didn't quite understand the reply but I think he was trying to tell me otherwise.
And the answer is.... yes! And the answer is.... yes!
I had asked FMA in private and in public:
One of my use cases is charging 2600 and 2900 mAh capacity 18650 lithium ion cylindrical cells, in parallel. Ideally I'd like to be able to select a charging current suitable for at least 0.5C to 1C charge rates, where 1C would be near 18A (6 cells in parallel at ~ 3Ah each).
Is this possible using entirely manual settings or via a user defined preset?
Here's the scoop from Tim Marks who is president of the company and from his many postings on the FMA thread on rcgroups clearly knows his products: Here's the scoop from Tim Marks who is president of the company and from his many postings on the FMA thread on rcgroups clearly knows his products:
Yes, all you would need to do is use one of the balancing presets. The High Power preset would let you charge a single cell up to 40A. The non-balanced preset is for "packs" that will be charged non-balanced. Yes, in this case we limit to 2s non-balanced at 2A max charge rate for safety reasons. There is no safety issue when charging a single cell on a balanced preset.
One way or another, it looks like it is possible. From what I've read it sounds like user defined presets can alter most any parameter so it should be easy enough to create "My Parallel 18650s Pre-set" but even if not I can deal with reusing a predefined one. One way or another, it looks like it is possible. From what I've read it sounds like user defined presets can alter most any parameter so it should be easy enough to create "My Parallel 18650s Pre-set" but even if not I can deal with reusing a predefined one.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
clintb on 01-18-2011 09:52 PM GMT
Good to see you guys got your question(s) answered, and directly from the source.
There's basically a pre-defined set of charging scenarios built into the PL8 which can be altered on the PL8 directly. With the FUIM3 (USB adapter) and CCS, you can change all paramaters and even create your own presets from scratch. I won't lie, it can be a bit daunting to look at CCS, even more so in advanced mode, but a bit of patience and time will have you grasping it in no time at all. Holding the mouse cursor over an option brings up a very good explanation, so you rarely need the help manual.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
radellaf on 01-19-2011 08:49 PM GMT
I use a Mastech 30V 50 Amp PS and love it. I went that large because I use it to run my Locators - 28V, 16 running Amps. If you use a regulated, variable PS, don't forget to install a Schottky Diode in the + output cable to prevent spike/backflow of power to the PS which fried my first Mastech.
Reaching back in the thread a bit, but just wanted to post this after getting my HY1503D Mastech Supply. Quite possibly, they took your advice on the newer model. Have a look at the hefty diodes in series with the negative output binding post. Reaching back in the thread a bit, but just wanted to post this after getting my HY1503D Mastech Supply. Quite possibly, they took your advice on the newer model. Have a look at the hefty diodes in series with the negative output binding post.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/radell...ickr.com/5124/5371331069_3eb49bf71e.jpg[/img]
Unfortunately, this supply is D(efective)oA. 800mA load pulls it down about 0.5V in "CV" mode. Hope they don't ask me to pay return shipping on a 9lb device. Dunno why they don't make these things switching supplies that could weigh maybe 2 pounds, instead.
Turns out I mistakenly bought one of those LiIon cells (batteryjunction's LG Chem 2800mAh) that is supposed to be charged at 4.35V (to 50mA), and since my inflexible Bantam BC6 won't let me change that setting, I'd need this supply to fully charge the cell. Probably wouldn't bother to do it regularly, but it'd be nice to test capacity.
Really waiting for a firmware upgrade...
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
Justin Case on 01-20-2011 08:29 AM GMT
If you check the schematics
here for the Mastech HY3005 power supply, you'll see that they use a 3A rectifier (the one labeled V32A in the schematic) to protect the P.S.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
BVH on 01-20-2011 10:42 AM GMT
Thank you - the last 4 posters - for this great info! I appreciate your posts.
Justin, any chance of finding the schematic for the 3050?
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
Justin Case on 01-20-2011 11:03 AM GMT
For other Mastech schematics, it looks like you have to
contact these folks.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
radellaf on 01-20-2011 12:55 PM GMT
Well I found out that those diodes were a (bone headed) hack, as they cause the voltage to drop unde load (CV should be CV, hence the word "regulated"). I heard back and they were thrown in to "prevent damage from misuse".
Fine, but either put them backwards and shunt, or move the bloody voltage monitoring feedback to the regulator to the _load_ side of the diodes (and make sure it can handle reverse voltage spikes). If the circuit can't handle -0.7V spikes then there's a more fundamental design issue.
You sure do get what you pay for with test equipment. But, at least I can fix this without payin return shipping.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
BVH on 01-20-2011 01:08 PM GMT
With my Schottky in the + output, I lose .5V under no-load and loaded at any Voltage/current. I just know to subtract .5 from the Voltage display. I'd love to by a surplus Lambda 40V -60A supply but they still want $1,300+ for them.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
radellaf on 01-20-2011 01:40 PM GMT
Might be fine for some apps but testing MCU based lights I don't want 4.2V under load to jump to 4.7V (for example) when the circuit switches to standby. Or worse, 1.5V to go up to 2.0V.
The specs say 3mV load stability and I need no more than 50mV to get useful test results on some of my applications. Series protection is just no good.
That schematic is weird, tho it explains why the hack diodes are in series with the - terminal. They're using ground for the positive and using a negative supply. I don't know why...
Also, looks like the LM324 op amp may be to blame for the delicate input. There are much more... robust versions of that developed in the last, oh, 30 years?
I can't afford a "real" supply ($500+) but if this were $100 instead of $50 I would still have bought it, and probably liked it better. Good price for what components are there, to be sure, but they cut too many corners.
---edit---
Just heard back from Mastech and apparently it's not kV of backvoltage that is the problem, but anything driving the input at a higher voltage than the supply is set for. i.e., set it to 3V, attach a LiIon cell, and (presumably) POOF.
That is _bad_ design. I'll have to see about maybe sending it back. As is, it doesn't come close to meeting advertised specs, and without the diode it, apparently, can't power: "DC motors, batteries, fan, electrochemical systems, capacitors, inductors, thermal electrical coolers, etc."
Might as well call it an incandescent light bulb driver instead of a power supply. Yikes. It's going back to them.
Just found this new one from BK that might be just what the Dr. ordered:
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/bk...n/pdf/1550.pdf
$140, 5 lbs, Switching DC Power Supply 1-36V, 0-3A. The equivalent DC version is $240, and larger/heavier than the Mastech.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
Justin Case on 01-21-2011 01:29 PM GMT
Well the two paralleled rectifiers make that series diode protection approach even more of a hack. There is probably little guarantee that those two rectifiers are closely matched.
It also looks like your series diodes protect only against current backfeed. There is still the issue of reverse polarity, which IMO could be a higher probability failure mode when using a bench supply to charge an individual cell or a pack.
A bridge rectifier and a fuse will easily and simply address both issues. See
here under "Basic Operation", for an example bridge hookup. A
Fairchild GBPC35 series bridge should work fine. Put a fuse with appropriate amp rating in series with the upper right, red output lead in the example bridge hookup diagram.
With this circuit, using a bench supply to charge bare cells should be about as safe as it gets. You should be protected against current backfeed and reverse battery polarity connection (should just blow the series fuse in the circuit). Also, if you connect the circuit with reverse polarity to the bench supply, that should not matter.
A remaining issue (besides the fact that there is no automatic charge termination) is the voltage drop from the diodes which messes up the target charging voltage that you set on the bench supply. From the Fairchild datasheet, Vf can vary from about 0.7V to 1.0V for a forward current of 1A to 10A. Thus, you might not be able even to assume a constant Vf drop.
A workaround for that is to get an inline wattmeter, such
this or
this or
this. From the wattmeter voltage readout, set the bench supply so that the wattmeter reads the desired voltage.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
radellaf on 01-21-2011 03:57 PM GMT
Bridge would be a good way to blow a fuse on Vload > Vsupply. Would prevent true CC/CV charging since the diode drop would probably go down a few 10s of mV as the current went from say 300mA down to 50mA (e.g., topping off one of those 4.35V 2.8Ah LG Chem cells). You'd have to find out what, at 50mA, gave you 4.33-4.35 at the cell, which would probably be a lower setting than the one that gave you that voltage at 300mA.
The diodes are a hack and they as much as admitted it. Called it a "stop-gap solution". Stop gap my foot, they shouldn't be selling these things. Add to that, they're "soon" coming out with an improved version of the HY1503 (and I presume others in that family) that are overvoltage protected on the input. You might still want a reverse diode if you're driving inductive loads. The screwy part about their current design isn't that the input objects to being driven below 0V, but that it has a problem being driven any higher than the set voltage. Not sure how they designed a regulator that doesn't just say "OK, Vout is too high, I'll shut off my pass transistors now".
So, I sent my unit back (they paid return shipping, I'm still out $20 s/h though), and I'm trying to get them to do an even exchange with an improved unit whenever they're released.
I'm also looking at the $50-$250 alternatives. The BK supplies are more robust (they were a bit amused about Mastech's problem and "fix"), and the 1550 is both small and quiet (NO FAN), but voltage adjusts in 0.1V steps, not so good for LiIon. Also, CC limit can take a moment to kick in (i.e. could blow your LED). The
BK1621 is what the HY1803 wants to be, but is double the size of the HY1503.
Then there's this odd duck of a USB programmable supply, the $200
Quako HY3005DP, which is as small as the 1550 and much more configurable. Also has a nice obvious LED indicator for when its over-voltage protection is active. Looks ideal, if I could trust its reliability vs. the BK Precision supplies ($350 and much larger for their
1696 programmable, which is RS232 only).
I'm looking into whether either programmable supply can be set to shut off when the charging current drops below a threshold. Even if it required a full-time attached PC. The BK will for sure do that if you have LabView, but not sure about the included SW. It would also let you graph volts/amps just like you can from the Bantam-type hobby chargers.
--on topic--
And, to boot, I've bugged Bantam about adding a manual or preset mode for the 4.3/4.35V cells. They did reply to my first email, arguing such cells didn't exist. I haven't heard back since sending them links to both Samsung and LG datasheets for the ones that do.
--back off--
FWIW, while I had it, and shorted the diode, I was able to verify that the Zebralight SC60 does have effective 2.75V cutoff, even at low brightness settings. The P-Rocket shuts off to a low-drain blink mode at 2.5-ish (and also is VERY badly regulated. supposed to be 2.5A max but it went up to 2.8A as I upped the voltage a few 100mV). The first 10-20 min on the P-Rocket would really benefit from the 4.35V 18650, though. I think I got one with a high Vf emitter. The Quark RGB, well, you have to check. At 2.75-3-ish, level 3 is same brightness as turbo. You can check any time, but if you left it to run at lvl moon-2-or-3, you'd spend a lot of time under 2.75V.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
Justin Case on 01-21-2011 08:48 PM GMT
radellaf said:
Bridge would be a good way to blow a fuse on Vload > Vsupply. Would prevent true CC/CV charging since the diode drop would probably go down a few 10s of mV as the current went from say 300mA down to 50mA (e.g., topping off one of those 4.35V 2.8Ah LG Chem cells). You'd have to find out what, at 50mA, gave you 4.33-4.35 at the cell, which would probably be a lower setting than the one that gave you that voltage at 300mA.
Whoops. I mistakenly described the desired bridge circuit. V(ps)- and V(load)- both connect to the node at 3 o'clock on the bridge shown in the wikipedia link. V(load)- does not connect to the node at 6 o'clock. Whoops. I mistakenly described the desired bridge circuit. V(ps)- and V(load)- both connect to the node at 3 o'clock on the bridge shown in the wikipedia link. V(load)- does not connect to the node at 6 o'clock.
If Vload > Vps, for example when the ps shuts off unexpectedly (power failure, fat finger, or whatever), the bridge prevents any backfeed of current. The fuse should not blow because there is no current flow anywhere.
Other than that, Vload shouldn't be greater than Vps anyway. We are talking about a battery charging application, and specifically in the case of CC/CV, Li-ion charging. Thus, you would set your ps such that Vps is some multiple of 4.20V. The cells being charged will have a Vload less than Vps. Vload will begin to rise at the set current until the set voltage is reached. Then the supply switches over to constant voltage mode and the current starts to decrease while the float voltage holds at the set voltage (assuming adjustable current limits).
Yes, there is the issue of Vf drop from the diodes, as I mentioned. And that drop is not a constant, but varies somewhat with current. Hence, my suggestion to use a Watt Meter or similar device. This would affect the CV phase of the charging, not the CC phase. Depending on the sensitivity of the diode Vf with charge current magnitude, you might have to periodically tweak the power supply voltage to keep the float voltage at 4.20V. It is true that the Fairchild GBPC bridge rectifier datasheet shows Vf changing from about 0.7V to 1.0V for a forward current range of 1A to 10A. But datasheet specs and real world specs sometimes differ. You really have to check to see how your bridge's Vf varies over your forward current range of interest.
Charging cells with a bench supply isn't like dealing with the simplicity of charging with a Pila or even with a hobby charger. There is no automatic charge termination, no temperature cutoff, no max capacity cutoff, no timer cutoff, etc etc. You are the primary, secondary, and tertiary safety circuits.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
radellaf on 01-23-2011 12:09 PM GMT
Granted the battery voltage _should_ be lower than the power supply output, but I'm sure not keeping a power supply that is going to blow out permanently if I ever twist the knob to 3V while 4.2V charging. Like I said, with all their restrictions on what it can't safely power, all it leaves is resistors and light bulbs.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
Justin Case on 01-23-2011 01:08 PM GMT
radellaf said:
Granted the battery voltage _should_ be lower than the power supply output, but I'm sure not keeping a power supply that is going to blow out permanently if I ever twist the knob to 3V while 4.2V charging. Like I said, with all their restrictions on what it can't safely power, all it leaves is resistors and light bulbs.
Well, #1 that's what the bridge is for. #2, obviously a bench supply is not the same as a dedicated Well, #1 that's what the bridge is for. #2, obviously a bench supply is not the same as a dedicated charger in terms of being dummy-proof. If you are prone to be a knob/button-twiddler, then a bench supply is the wrong device to use to as a Li-ion charger, regardless of the design/quality of the bench supply. Get a Pila charger. Even a hobby charger would be the wrong choice IMO for a knob/button-twiddler.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
radellaf on 01-25-2011 01:02 PM GMT
There's a difference between something requiring knowledge to work, and something being built so badly that it is fragile under normal operating conditions. Tell me you've never had your meter on amps when you wanted volts, for instance. A power supply should be really tough.
The bridge is too much trouble, whole idea of a lab power supply is to _not_ have to keep changing the voltage as the current changes.
So, until the newer version comes out, the cheapest supply that will work is the 18V 5A BK 1621A for about $200. A lot but about half what I expected. If it wasn't so huge I might have already bought one. As is I'll keep an eye out for something smaller and cheaper.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
Justin Case on 01-25-2011 09:02 PM GMT
radellaf said:
There's a difference between something requiring knowledge to work, and something being built so badly that it is fragile under normal operating conditions. Tell me you've never had your meter on amps when you wanted volts, for instance. A power supply should be really tough.
The bridge is too much trouble, whole idea of a lab power supply is to _not_ have to keep changing the voltage as the current changes.
So, until the newer version comes out, the cheapest supply that will work is the 18V 5A BK 1621A for about $200. A lot but about half what I expected. If it wasn't so huge I might have already bought one. As is I'll keep an eye out for something smaller and cheaper.
Plenty of folks on the RC groups are using bridges and other rectifier networks when re-charging their Li-ion packs using Mastech bench supplies. So I fail to see why a bridge is "too much trouble". The whole idea of using a bench supply as a Plenty of folks on the RC groups are using bridges and other rectifier networks when re-charging their Li-ion packs using Mastech bench supplies. So I fail to see why a bridge is "too much trouble". The whole idea of using a bench supply as a charger is already somewhat of a hassle. The bridge seems very incremental. However, I personally don't see using a bench supply as a general-purpose charging method anyway. The RC folks seem to use big bench supplies to re-charge their A123 packs very rapidly by hitting their big packs with max current. I don't have that requirement. Using a bench supply to power my hobby charger seems a lot more useful.
Putting a DMM on amps instead of volts is hardly the same thing as screwing up the settings or charging procedure for a bench supply when charging Li-ions. With a DMM, you'll probably just blow a fuse or at worst, fry your meter. With a bench supply screwup, you'll be lucky if all that happens is that your blow a rectifier or fuse in your bench supply, or even have nothing at all happen to your supply. The worst case is that you might have a serious vent with flame incident. Internal circuitry to protect the supply itself is all well and good. But don't forget about thermal runaway of the cells/entire pack if you screw up.
If you can't provide the necessary attention to detail when using a bench supply as a charger, then IMO that is simply the wrong tool to use, regardless of bench supply brand/design.
In post #83, you gave the example of "...if I ever twist the knob to 3V while 4.2V charging...". Frankly, if you are vulnerable to such an operating error, you should not use any type of bench supply to charge any kind of Li-ion cell -- safe chemistry, protected, or whatever. Why would you even touch the voltage settings while already charging at the correct float voltage of 4.2V? That is a fundamental error.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
BVH on 01-25-2011 09:13 PM GMT
Looks like a lot of the RC people are using Iota battery chargers that also double as a fairly stout and stable PS. I've had the DS55 ever since I needed some heavy duty charging for my 24V, 220 Amp AGM battery setup for my VSS-1. I just brought it out of storage to power my newPL8 charger. Don't know why I didn't think of this before. Looks like Iota 55's are going for about $180 give or take. Not too bad for 13.5V, 55 Amps.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
radellaf on 01-26-2011 03:09 AM GMT
I know how to use the equipment, and I know when what I just bought is poor quality and doesn't match what its spec sheet says. I'm glad Mastech is (eventually) going to redesign their supplies to fix their problem. In the meantime, I would like a smallish adjustable CC/CV supply that actually works, if anyone knows of one I haven't mentioned, since Bantam doesn't seem interested in supporting 4.35V cells.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
tandem on 02-01-2011 09:19 AM GMT
I recently became an owner of the FMA CellPro PowerLab 8 (that's a mouthful) which is a 1300Wcharger aimed at the RC market and sadly about five times the cost of a decent 50W hobby charger. On a cost per watt basis it's pretty decent though.
I notice that the max charge voltage in the latest (and perhaps the prior) version of the charge control software is 4.3V which might be close enough for someone interested in the Samsung 4.35V cells. I've already put a plug in for these cells on the wish list forum for the charger maker over on RC Groups.
A few of us here at CPF have the PL8 -- maybe one of us will consent to doing a review or we pile observations into a joint review thread.
Re: Hobby Charger ?
Written by
HKJ on 02-01-2011 09:27 AM GMT
I notice that the max charge voltage in the latest (and perhaps the prior) version of the charge control software is 4.3V which might be close enough for someone interested in the Samsung 4.35V cells. I've already put a plug in for these cells on the wish list forum for the charger maker over on RC Groups.
You can do the same on the iCharger and probably a lot of other chargers to. The upper limit for LiIo is 4.2 and for LiPo is 4.3, i.e. it is possible to redefine the charge voltages to 4.2/4.3 instead of 4.1/4.2. for LiIo and LiPo You can do the same on the iCharger and probably a lot of other chargers to. The upper limit for LiIo is 4.2 and for LiPo is 4.3, i.e. it is possible to redefine the charge voltages to 4.2/4.3 instead of 4.1/4.2. for LiIo and LiPo
Re: Hobby Charger?
Written by
BVH on 02-01-2011 09:35 AM GMT
tandem said:
A few of us here at CPF have the PL8 -- maybe one of us will consent to doing a review or we pile observations into a joint review thread.
I just picked one up but I don't own any balanced packs - yet so am not taking advantage of the power it is capable of. I have not seen any method around the 2 Amp charging limit on unbalanced packs. I just picked one up but I don't own any balanced packs - yet so am not taking advantage of the power it is capable of. I have not seen any method around the 2 Amp charging limit on unbalanced packs.
Re: Hobby Charger?
Written by
tandem on 02-01-2011 10:29 AM GMT
BVH what are your "packs"? A single cell or multiple cells in parallel? In series?
(edit: I saw your note in the FMA Direct forum on RC Groups. Now I understand. Looking forward to seeing the answer.)
Haven't got to parallel charging cells yet but will soon.
I have been able to observe a > 2A charging rate on a single cell. For the preset I chose 2.5A but rates up to 10A were available to me.
I seem to recall there is a setting which can unlock higher rates but under what conditions I'm not certain, yet. There's a lot to explore in this unit. I'm running the latest firmware and charge control software.
Re: Hobby Charger?
Written by
KiwiMark on 02-01-2011 06:14 PM GMT
HKJ said:
You can do the same on the iCharger and probably a lot of other chargers to. The upper limit for LiIo is 4.2 and for LiPo is 4.3, i.e. it is possible to redefine the charge voltages to 4.2/4.3 instead of 4.1/4.2. for LiIo and LiPo
That would be one of the reasons that I am looking at buying an iCharger. That would be one of the reasons that I am looking at buying an iCharger.
Re: Hobby Charger?
Written by
BVH on 02-01-2011 06:22 PM GMT
tandem said:
BVH what are your "packs"? A single cell or multiple cells in parallel? In series?
(edit: I saw your note in the FMA Direct forum on RC Groups. Now I understand. Looking forward to seeing the answer.)
Was just going to explain but see that you saw my post on RC. I hope they can be charged. To me, it makes no sense for such a high power and feature rich charger to not be able to handle this task. Was just going to explain but see that you saw my post on RC. I hope they can be charged. To me, it makes no sense for such a high power and feature rich charger to not be able to handle this task.
Re: Hobby Charger?
Written by
tandem on 02-01-2011 06:47 PM GMT
It seems the 1SnP configuration it can handle which is my use case, in addition to some bog standard balance charging of RC packs (also in parallel now). Hopefully this use case of yours isn't the exception.
# -- end of thread catch up --