How bright is Peak Pacific with CR2/500cp?

[etc]

There is no direct conversion between CP and lumens...

How bright is Peak Pacific with CR2 and P4/500 cp? Lumens-wise?

How good is the run time?

 

[skcheng]

I can answer this since I just asked and ordered this light.

With an RCR2 (I'll be using the AW brand protected version), the light will be running with a 5v board at 1.75 watts and 60-90 lumens for 30 to 40 minutes.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here, but those are pretty hefty specs!!!

And a P4 (U bin) emitter!!

I should get much longer run-time in the AA body that I also ordered running an AW 14500 battery.

 

[TonkinWarrior]

There is no direct conversion between CP and lumens...

How bright is Peak Pacific with CR2 and P4/500 cp? Lumens-wise?

How good is the run time?

I'll take a shot at this...

Went out to my darkened back yard this hot summer night to compare/contrast two lights:

1. Brass Peak Pacific SP (P4/500 cp rating -- the little "max" bomber) on a Duracell CR2, and

2. Surefire L4 (100 lumen rating) on 2 X CR123 fresh Energizers

UNSCIENTIFIC EYEBALL CONCLUSIONS:

1. The Peak Pacific Super Power 1 X CR2 (price: $50) appears 75-80% as bright as the SF L4 (MSRP: $165).

2. At 20 yards, the little Peak Pacific's floody beam is about 85% as wide as the SF L4's, though the L4's is a bit brighter on the beam's periphery.

3. The SF L4 beam has a 10-15% brighter "hot-spot."

4. Both beams, in any practical/tactical use, are clean, white, and artifact free. Magnificent.

My first conclusion (re the Pacific being 75-80% as bright as the SF L4) certainly tracks with skcheng's estimate of 60-90 Lumens for the Pacific SP/CR2. In this context, I'd guess mine's about 75-80 Lumens -- incredible for such an exquisite little light. A rechargeable might enhance this. Nevertheless, based on real out-the-front light, this places the Pacific SP/CR2 up there with the popular Fenix P1-CE and P1D-Q5 (1 X 123). To my eyes, the Pacific beam is notably floodier; the Fenix have longer throw.

Based on previous CPFer intell re Pacific run-times w/different power levels, and my discussion w/Peak's wise tech guru, Curt, I'd say that skcheng's 30-40 minute run-time estimate here is dead on for the SP/CR2 Pacific.

While CR2 batteries are not known for long run-times in high drain applications like the Pacific (in Super Power) my feeling is that one does not buy this special Pocket Rocket for long-running survival-scenario applications. It is, however, one concealable and very rugged illumination tool designed for a specific purpose: handily lighting-up rooms or parking lots that need to be broadly lit with a dramatic "wall of light"... and searing criminal corneas that need to be seared.

It's late, my old eyes are tired, and maybe I'll try this test run again when I haven't swilled a quantity of beer sufficient to inure me to the predations of the local semi-automatic assault-mosquito squadrons.

 

[skcheng]

Thanks for taking the time to compare and post your notes. I have several KL4 heads and L4 lights in various configurations. It's my favorite SF light. But it's expensive and quite large even if I lego the KL4 with a small clicky and an Aleph CR2 body.

The Peak Pacific in Brass cost me $37.50 (less money than a SF tailcap) and it's hand built to order. That's pretty incredible. And I added accessories like the keychain and pocket body, and a brass momentary on/off. I also ordered some plastic caps so that the extra bodies can be used to store batteries. I just wish that the light had a 2-stage switch, but that will be a "mod" that I'll pursue.

Can you confirm that the Pacific does NOT have flat regulation?? Will it dim slowly as the battery drains?

Thanks!!

 

[gorn]

I have the Pacific with CR2 body, 500cp in brass. I compared it with my Novatec 120P. The Peak is maybe 80% or so as bright as the Novatec on high. That estimate is based on a white wall bounce of 4 feet. Not bad at all considering the Peak is less than half the price of the Novatec, and a whole lot better looking.

 

[TonkinWarrior]

Thanks for taking the time to compare and post your notes. I have several KL4 heads and L4 lights in various configurations. It's my favorite SF light. But it's expensive and quite large even if I lego the KL4 with a small clicky and an Aleph CR2 body.

The Peak Pacific in Brass cost me $37.50 (less money than a SF tailcap) and it's hand built to order. That's pretty incredible. And I added accessories like the keychain and pocket body, and a brass momentary on/off. I also ordered some plastic caps so that the extra bodies can be used to store batteries. I just wish that the light had a 2-stage switch, but that will be a "mod" that I'll pursue.

Can you confirm that the Pacific does NOT have flat regulation?? Will it dim slowly as the battery drains?

Thanks!!

Skcheng, thanks for your good follow-up comments here.

I lack the equipment to measure the Pacific's regulation, and I haven't owned it long enough to "field test" multiple sets of batteries.

My hunch is that it'll run fairly flat for about 30 minutes and then tail-off quickly... on a fresh CR2 battery.

A word about that battery. Standard CR2 batts have an est. shelf-life of 7 years (versus the 10 yr. life of CR123s). So, the potent Pacific SP on a CR2 battery will be battery-sensitive -- more than a 123-driven light -- just like any other high-drain device.

I just discovered that the Duracell CR2 I used in my rough "eyeball" test last night was over 2 years old. Further, my sooper cheep-assz $13 Radio Shack battery tester now shows that the battery I used here was comparatively weaker than the fresh 123s used in the Surefire L4. Assuming the CR2 self-discharges at 5% ++ annually, that's a potentially significant drop in available juice. (Like I said, this was not "scientific".)

Accordingly, my comparison of the Peak Pacific SP likely "cheated" it vis-a-vis the Surefire L4. I'd guess that the Pacific could get real close (90%+) to the SF L4's output, though it would go for less than half the L4's run-time. When I get some some new high quality CR2s (at non-grocery store prices!) I'll do another evaluation.

What's clear is this:
The Pacific SP/CR2 gives the great SF L4 a major "run for the money" in terms of dramatic Wall-Of-Light output. It's a real bargain.

 

[TonkinWarrior]

I have the Pacific with CR2 body, 500cp in brass. I compared it with my Novatec 120P. The Peak is maybe 80% or so as bright as the Novatec on high. That estimate is based on a white wall bounce of 4 feet. Not bad at all considering the Peak is less than half the price of the Novatec, and a whole lot better looking.

Gorn, that's a very good In-A-Nutshell summary of the Pacific SP/CR2... especially re cost-effectiveness.

BTW, what is the rating of the Novatec 120P on high? 120 lumens out-the-front?

 

[skcheng]

I have three of the Novatac 120P lights. They're nice lights and the UI is very flexible. On high, the lumen rating is 120P. The 120P lists for $189, even though I purchased mine for about $130. So the Pacific prices out to only 1/3 or even 1/4 of the cost of the 120P.

I would have purchased the Pacific in Ti if they offered a Ti CR2 body.

 

[TonkinWarrior]

Yep, the Pacific CR2 in Ti would be a real pocket-able sleeper. (And pricier, too.)

I see a Novatec 120P just popped up for sale on B-S-T for $135.

Think I'll keep my Peak Pacific CR2/SP.

 

[gorn]

Gorn, that's a very good In-A-Nutshell summary of the Pacific SP/CR2... especially re cost-effectiveness.

BTW, what is the rating of the Novatec 120P on high? 120 lumens out-the-front?

I'm not sure of the out the front rating on the Novatec. With the way companies like to fudge on the actual output of lights it's hard to tell. I don't have any light testing equipment.

I did make a mistake in my last post. The Peak is really about 1/3 the cost of the Novatec. You can pick up new Novatec 120P's at yourcornerstore.com for $134 now I think. That's where I got mine, but i Paid $121.50 for it. As much as I like the Novatec, I still prefer the Peak. Brass is just too nice to look at and considering it's size it is a bright little devil.

 

[Stillphoto]

Can't wait to be a part of this comparison.

I ordered the same light everyone is talking about (brass pacific p4 w/SP 5volt driver). Also picked up an AA keychain body and momentary switch as well. Wanted the AAA body but Robyn mentioned the runtime will be pretty short with that driver (doh!) so I opted out of that.

Going to be fun. Now I just gotta order my rcr2s.

 

[lightsandknives]

I received my 2 brass Pacific's today. Really cool looking lights....but a little on the heavy side as you would expect.

I got a super power with the 5V board and AA body and put an AW 14500 in it. Very nice! it appears to be about the same brightness as my L1D Q5 on high (not turbo, but close). Nice hotspot as well as spill and no rings!

I also got a Ultra power with a 3V board with a CR2 body, well actually 2 bodies, one key ring and one pocket body. It is a very small light and it appears to be about the same brightness as the L1D on medium. Again, very nice beam. I'd read how much they were supposed to be designed for throw, but they have a very usable spill that was a pleasant surprise.

I do wish they didn't leave my hands smelling like brass however! A small price to pay I guess for such a beautiful little light!

 

[skcheng]

I received my 4 brass Pacifics today also. I ordered every possible configuration including the CR2 pocket body and AA pocket and keychain tails. I also picked up 2 of the brass momentary switches, but I now realize there is no way to lock the momentary. Oh well......

I ordered all of my lights with the 5V board as I intend to use 4.2V RCr2s and 14500s from AW. I find that with the CP500 driver, my Pacifics are as bright as my Surefire L4. The beam from my L4 is a little cleaner and wider, but not by much. I think this little light can clearly hold it's own against much pricier lights :twothumbs

I wonder if these lights would benefit from a Khatod reflector given the P4 emitters and a UCL or mineral/sapphire crystal. Those two items just might cost more than the light, but I'm going to give it a try!!

I really love my brass Pacifics and I'll probably order some more!!! Great job!!

 

[Stillphoto]

Hmm maybe I should pick up some 14500's in the meantime until AW gets the Rcr2's back in stock.

 

[lightsandknives]

Here's a shot of my two new beauties. I haven't polished them yet, but they still look pretty darned good!

 

[arty]

I have 4 Pacifics, and an Ultrapower Luxeon winds up on my pocket more often than other lights - I like the CR2 brass version.
It puts out a lot of light for the size - the hotspot seems brighter to the eye than a P4 Glacier Bay - but the larger light has a much brighter spill and more overall light.
WHen measured with a meter, the Glacier Bay has a brighter hotspot - the eyes can be deceptive.
I like the Pacific and have them in Luxeon and Seoul P4 versions. All are good lights.
The only downside is an extra ring of light beyond the normal pattern. I have this on all of them, HP and UP versions.

 

[TonkinWarrior]

Arty, I just wanted to thank you for your timely posts re your various Peaks. I've found them informative, as I'm sure others have, as well.

Slightly off topic question: What is your favorite Baltic version (power level)? The compact AAA Baltic isn't designed to quite match the potent Pacific's output (espec. in CR2/500 CP) but I'm wondering if the Baltic in UP or SP (on an Energizer L92) might give the hot Pacific a good challenge, aside from the diminished runtime a AAA Baltic (vs. Pacific/CR2) would entail.

Comments?

 

[arty]

Hi TonkinWarrior: I have two Baltics, both in HP. When I checked light output on the Pacific Ultrapower using a luxmeter - I could actually see output drop rapidly. I don't think the AAA has enough uumph to handle the ultrapower Baltic - but I am just guessing. The battery was not a lithium, and they may do better.

One of my Baltics is a lux version HA and the other is a stainless P4. The P4 puts out much more light. I don't know if all of them are like this, because you don't see this much difference in the Pacifics.

I know that there are people who like the more powerful version. Perhaps they can give you some runtime info. If anyone has a Baltic in ultrapower, they should chime in here.

 

[etc]

Awesome thread, thanks so much.

I am still trying to decide which power level to order. Probably not the brightest one, I want something oriented towards runtime.