How Can I Make My G2L Better?

[Centropolis]

I have a SF G2LED and I am wondering if there are easy mods to do so that I can do two things:

1) have a significant brighter beam than the stock beam
2) also be able to use rechargeables

Or should I just leave a good light as is and look for a used 6P Incan and mod that instead?

 

[pbs357]

If you replace your P60L module with an aftermarket one like the Malkoff M60, Dereelight Q5, BugoutGear Q5, etc, you will have a significant increase in light output, and also be able to use rechargable batteries in a variety of configurations, depenting on the module. See the really big thread that's stickied at the top of the LED page for a ton of ideas, feedback, etc. If you're looking to do it for super cheap, you can orer one from Dealextreme.com for $10-$15 shipped, though shipping takes a few weeks and the quality may not be as good as the other ones mentioned earlier. Good luck!

 

[WildChild]

I have a SF G2LED and I am wondering if there are easy mods to do so that I can do two things:

1) have a significant brighter beam than the stock beam
2) also be able to use rechargeables

Or should I just leave a good light as is and look for a used 6P Incan and mod that instead?

The G2L already works on RCR123A (probably on 17670 too). It can handle up to 9V since the same module is used in the G3L! On my side, I would love to see a 10-25 lumens P6XL module from SF that runs for ages on 2 CR123A (over 10h depending of the setup, probably over 30 at 10 lumens). G2L on this setup, with a Nitrolon head so it is non-conductive would be a nice cheap 2D lights killer for non flashaholics!

 

[Centropolis]

If you replace your P60L module with an aftermarket one like the Malkoff M60, Dereelight Q5, BugoutGear Q5, etc, you will have a significant increase in light output, and also be able to use rechargable batteries in a variety of configurations, depenting on the module. See the really big thread that's stickied at the top of the LED page for a ton of ideas, feedback, etc. If you're looking to do it for super cheap, you can orer one from Dealextreme.com for $10-$15 shipped, though shipping takes a few weeks and the quality may not be as good as the other ones mentioned earlier. Good luck!

Thanks for the info.

BTW, is there a drop-in for the L1?

 

[bspofford]

Modules: DereeLight 3SD, Solarforce R2 (one and five-mode)
Glass: UCL from Flashlightlens.com
Stainless Steel Bezel: Solarforce on Ebay
Full Stainless Steel Head: Solarforce on Ebay & KD (includes AR glass)
Clicky Tailcap: Solarforce on Ebay
GITD Clicky Cover: DX

I agree that the tube already accommodates 2X16340 Li-ion rechargeables.

 

[Centropolis]

Modules: DereeLight 3SD, Solarforce R2 (one and five-mode)
Glass: UCL from Flashlightlens.com
Stainless Steel Bezel: Solarforce on Ebay
Full Stainless Steel Head: Solarforce on Ebay & KD (includes AR glass)
Clicky Tailcap: Solarforce on Ebay
GITD Clicky Cover: DX

I agree that the tube already accommodates 2X16340 Li-ion rechargeables.

I was told before that the G2L couldn't handle two RCR123As!? I know they physically fit in the body but I am thinking about voltage.

Anyways, I've read 1 third of the long thread about P60 drop-ins and it seems some of them need modifications before they can go in my G2L properly. They are not true drop-ins! hehe It does seem very cool to only spend $15 and get a brighter beam AND longer slightly runtime. I would have to read more to see which one does NOT require ANYTHING to be done to is before dropping it in.

Also, since mine is the yellow polymer body...not sure if it can handle the extra heat. More research required.....

 

[Alero]

The protected 17670 battery fits great in both of my G2 lights.

I have a SF P60L in one (with nitrolon bezel) a a DX one in the other (aluminum bezel).

What is your bezel made of? If it's aluminum, then anthing would work fine with a little spring cutting. It's easy.

If nitrolon, then you probably need something lie a malkof for heat management.

Personally, I'm waiting for the new P61L later this year before I buy any new P60 style lamps.

 

[jugg2]

Thanks for the info.

BTW, is there a drop-in for the L1?

No there is not a drop in for the L1.

 

[bspofford]

Whether you can use 1X 2X 3X or 3X RCR/16340 cells depends on the module you use. If you use a module rated to 4.2V, you would want to use a 17670 cell. If you get a module like the Solarforce 1-mode R2 rated to 12.6V, you can add a one-cell extension and use 3X16340.

 

[WildChild]

Stock G2L drop-in handle up to 9V (at least), this is the same drop-in that is used in the G3L with 3 CR123A!

I was told before that the G2L couldn't handle two RCR123As!? I know they physically fit in the body but I am thinking about voltage.

Anyways, I've read 1 third of the long thread about P60 drop-ins and it seems some of them need modifications before they can go in my G2L properly. They are not true drop-ins! hehe It does seem very cool to only spend $15 and get a brighter beam AND longer slightly runtime. I would have to read more to see which one does NOT require ANYTHING to be done to is before dropping it in.

Also, since mine is the yellow polymer body...not sure if it can handle the extra heat. More research required.....

 

[USM0083]

I was told before that the G2L couldn't handle two RCR123As!? I know they physically fit in the body but I am thinking about voltage.

The G3L comes with the same P60L module that the G2L/6PL comes with. I've run it with three CR-123s or two 17500s.

 

[precisionworks]

since mine is the yellow polymer body...not sure if it can handle the extra heat

Both the Malkoff M60L and the M60LL are designed for molded body lights.

I chose the M60LL for my G2. Much better beam pattern, much better color temp, seems to throw farther even though both are rated 80 lumens. Highly recommend

 

[Centropolis]

Both the Malkoff M60L and the M60LL are designed for molded body lights.

I chose the M60LL for my G2. Much better beam pattern, much better color temp, seems to throw farther even though both are rated 80 lumens. Highly recommend

I emailed BOG today and asked them about their "Premium Plus" and "Super Premium" drop-ins. I asked them if they would melt my G2L body since the Super Premium puts out over 200 lumens. And he said it won't be any bigger issue than the stock module. I was really surprised because the stock one puts out only 80 lumens. I would of think the BOG Super Premium puts out way more heat than the stock one?

If it's not a problem, then I have to decide between this $50 drop-in i my G2L and the new TK10.

I think the runtime for the BOG drop-ins is better than the TK10?!

 

[Gunner12]

Thread of P60 drop-ins here.

The P60L isn't driving the LED too hard. At 1 amp, the Seoul P4(the LED used in the P60L) should hit a bit over 200 lumen. With the metal head, the drop-ins metal, and your hand holding the light, there shouldn't be enough heat to melt anything in the light(unless you randomly have some butter in there). Don't worry about the heat.

 

[kramer5150]

What is your budget?
What are you trying to achieve?... just brightness?... or other things as well? (run time, flood, throw, quality of light...etc...).

Do you want to upgrade the physical shape/feel of the light with an extension tube, additional grip rings, strike bezel...etc...

For starters, scour through the P60 drop in sticky. There are a TON of drop in options available, although the list gets much smaller if you need 8V+ stability. The newer Cree R2 emitters are becoming more readily available, and theres ALWAYS new bins right around the corner. Its kind of like flash memory, the longer you hold out, the more you'll get for your $$$. The development pace really is THAT fast, perhaps even faster if you are willing to accept LED modules from asia.

Welcome to the SF world... its a lot of fun!!

 

[Centropolis]

What is your budget?
What are you trying to achieve?... just brightness?... or other things as well? (run time, flood, throw, quality of light...etc...).

Do you want to upgrade the physical shape/feel of the light with an extension tube, additional grip rings, strike bezel...etc...

For starters, scour through the P60 drop in sticky. There are a TON of drop in options available, although the list gets much smaller if you need 8V+ stability. The newer Cree R2 emitters are becoming more readily available, and theres ALWAYS new bins right around the corner. Its kind of like flash memory, the longer you hold out, the more you'll get for your $$$. The development pace really is THAT fast, perhaps even faster if you are willing to accept LED modules from asia.

Welcome to the SF world... its a lot of fun!!

I don't want to change the physical shape of the light. I want a brighter, better runtime and with RCR123As. Budget is a bit flexible but the MOST important thing the module I get can literally by dropped-in and work WITHOUT anything modified, removed, filed down, cut smaller, taken off the module. As long as this can be met, I am okay to maybe spend up to $40 for a drop-in….but I want a noticeable increased in lumens compared to a stock G2L.

 

[USM0083]

I don't want to change the physical shape of the light. I want a brighter, better runtime and with RCR123As. Budget is a bit flexible but the MOST important thing the module I get can literally by dropped-in and work WITHOUT anything modified, removed, filed down, cut smaller, taken off the module. As long as this can be met, I am okay to maybe spend up to $40 for a drop-in….but I want a noticeable increased in lumens compared to a stock G2L.

Most of the CREE dropins will be brighter than a P60L. I have an older CREE P4 dropin than puts out 160 lumens at the emitter and is noticeably brighter with a better hotspot compared to a P60L. There are CREE Q2s putting out ~190 lumens and Q5s putting out ~220+ lumens at the emitter.

You will not get better runtime over a P60L, because of how these modules are driven. I switched my G2Z from the aforementioned CREE P4 dropin to a P60L because it was bright enough for my purpose, and I wanted a really long runtime (I have a metal bezel from my old 6Z on it 'cause it works better in my V70 holster).

 

[Centropolis]

Most of the CREE dropins will be brighter than a P60L. I have an older CREE P4 dropin than puts out 160 lumens at the emitter and is noticeably brighter with a better hotspot compared to a P60L. There are CREE Q2s putting out ~190 lumens and Q5s putting out ~220+ lumens at the emitter.

You will not get better runtime over a P60L, because of how these modules are driven. I switched my G2Z from the aforementioned CREE P4 dropin to a P60L because it was bright enough for my purpose, and I wanted a really long runtime (I have a metal bezel from my old 6Z on it 'cause it works better in my V70 holster).

Yes runtime is important because I want atleast the same runtime compared to running primaries on a P60L with the new drop-in using RCR123As. I know it's hard.

 

[Alero]

If you want LONZG run time, then consider using a single 17670 instead of a pair of 123 rechargeables. I get insane run time on a P60L with a 17670 battery. You should get 4+ hours with an aluminum bezel and even more than that with a plastic one.

 

[Lighthouse one]

Centrop...you sound like you want a 100mpg car that is as fast as a vette.
Everything is a trade off...this is a great place to learn how to do mods...a little bit at a time. YOu want a drop in with guaranteed no extra effort? THat's call a SUREFIRE ! I believe you already have it. Don't be afraid to try to figure out how to make a drop in fit...we learn by little mistakes- and practice. Not trying to bust on you, but don't be afraid to experiment a bit!