How do I make threads?

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Thanks for the feedback, Roth. I'll think I'll try to find a suitable tap. I picked up a 2 inch, 3 jaw chuck with MT2 spindle that was a couple bucks at the local HF store. It's not deep (no through hole), but I did manage to drill a hole in some scrap using it with a standard drill bit.

Sadly, I ordered all the accessories from HF over two week ago and 2/3rd of them are on back-order. The last thing they shipped took 2 weeks from the time they showed that it was mailed. Sigh. My wife thinks it's a marketing scheme. Every time I check the order status I end up ordering something else.

On the bright side, the HF 7x10 lathe is on sale again for $329.

I'll be cutting some inside threads for a D cell sized body soon. I think I can make a suitable bit from a AL indexible bit. The back end of the trianglular insert sticks straight out to the side. Do I still need to set the compound to 29 degrees when doing inside threads?

Thanks.

Daniel
 
For a pretty cool internal threading bar check out http://www.criterionmachineworks.com/ (online catalog/"Z" series threading bars.) They are very easily resharpened many times due to their design. They also have a list of their reps. They aint cheap!!!! Holding them may present a challenge for some small lathes.

Larry
 
dan, that's exactly what i did.

i took one of my hf indexable bits (only one of them vill vork), and ground the shaft down.

i know jtice has made internal threaders from blanks, but my grinder isn't precise enough to do that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

larry, that link isn't vorking for me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Larry, those threading bars look very interesting, just hard to source.

The 3/8" bars are about right for a 7x10/12" lathe.

I've been trying to avoid the indexable tooling $$, and my skills with a grinder suck, so I rely on what I can get from my supplier ready-made.
 
Daniel,
If you are going to do C or D size Mag threads, you will most likly not do it with a tap.
Yes, you can find them that large, but I bed they are very pricey.
You might be able to adapt them to go in your lathe, so that will make it easier to lineup.

Yes, I have made about 5 internal threading tools from tool blanks now.
Its not all that easy, but if you take your time, and do it slow, ... and have an ok grinder, you can pull it off.
If you have trouble finding one (they are ussually out of stock) or if you dont want to spend the $$$ on a large tap, let me know, I will make one for ya.
 
Thanks for the offer, Jtice. I'm going to use the lathe to cut the C and D threads. The tap will be used for the single CR123a body that I'm making for practice. I have a fairly good set of taps for USS and metric threads.

It just occured to me that it should be easier to learn internal threading on the D sized tubing. More area to work in, better visability, etc.

Can you post some pictures of the internal threading tools you made from blanks? I think I know what they should look like, but sometimes a picture is worth... wel, you know.

Thanks

Daniel
 
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*Disclaimer: I have not tried this yet*

Use a tap that is significantly smaller in diameter than the minor diameter of the hole to be threaded - something with a 3/8" shank would be convenient for a mini-lathe - and grind away all but one (full) tooth on each flute. That should give you a threading tool and you can rotate it 90 deg to bring up a "new" cutting edge.

The "bit" will have to be held parallel to the work, of course.

I have been grinding my own threading bits but it's a fair bit of work.

Anyone done the tap-as-bit routine that can comment?

Tom
 
DOH! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif
Sorry, ment to upload a pic of them last night, but forgot. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I will try to remember when I get home tonight.

You may want to search on www.littlemachineshop.com they sell them, and have a pic, but they are ussually out of stock.
 
I'm sorry - I can't resist this any longer

Making threads? Simple - at the top of each section of the forum, there is a button that says "post" - you click it, and start and interesting topic - if folks reply, you have a new thread /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Thanks for the pointer to the little machine shop. I found a picture there. Reminds me of an old man my grandfather used to hang out with. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Here's theirs. It should be within my skill set to grind somethimg similar.

1895.jpg



Daniel
 
Tom,

Sounds like a lot of grinding to clear all but a full form tooth on the tap but seems to work in theory to me! Now what might be cool is taking a 1/2" x20 bottom tap and grinding away all but four of the teeth (at the rear where they are closest to full) If your lathe is geared for 5 TPI, this four toothed tap should give you the 4 start thread in the mini-mag head?!?!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
 
Yep, thats the pic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

What I dont understand is the tip of that one is real thin.
Each side of the angled tip should be 60 degrees.
Those look alot less then that,,, or, more,, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

But you get the idea.
Its basically a triangle at the tip of the bit, the makes your thread groove.
 
I wonder if they are ground to a sharper angle because they have to be at an angle inside the tube? If the compound is set to 29 degrees and the cutting tooth's leading edge is at 30 degrees would you end up with the proper shaped threads by cranking in the compound as you cut deeper?


Trying to visualize that now.

Daniel
 
Where it looks really thin in the insert pic, it is showing the bottom of the tool. It tapers thinner so there is clearance underneath the cutting surface. Also it shows that the bottom is rounded out to make sure it clears the inside diameter of the part you are cutting. The larger part of pic shows the correct 60 degree from the top. If you want I can take some pics at different angles tonight. I have one that my dad ground for me when I first started moding that looks almost just like that one.
 
Daniel,

I chose the 1/2" part because of rigidity and the fact that this example would only be used inthe case of trying to replicate the M-M head thread. The Axial load on the cutting tool would be 4X that of a single point cutting tool so rigidity would be more critical, me thinks. I would think you would still want your compound at 29 degrees but the tool would still need to be on axis to get the same depth in all 4 threads. Will it work? Heck if I know! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I would certainly go for a larger pilot hole than the stock M-M.
 
OK, I'm about to try my first internal threads on the lathe. They will be in an adapter that I've already shaped and threaded (external) for a D cell Maglite head.

What tricks do you guys use to ensure that you don't blow it at this stage? I'm working with delrin this time, so it's pretty forgiving. It does not have to be pretty inside.

Daniel
 
Well, I dont really know what to tell you,
I had to make about 15 passes to make threads, taking ALITTLE off each time.

And, I didnt use the little thread dial thing, that lets you know your position,
There is enough play in the lathe, to make that just about useless.
Just make a pass, back the bit out, reverse the lathe, then put the bit back where it was,,, plus a mm or so, then make another pass.
Over, and over and over again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I haven't quite figured out the usage of the thread index dial. I've done threads like jtice did, Run it forward then back the bit off and run backwards, then dial in a few more....

Anyone know of a good tutorial on threading?

Daniel
 
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