These are highly moddable.
You can sometimes get one that takes 3 seconds to warm up to 5mW outputting over 70mW if you tune it right.
There are two styles of these lasers, you managed to get the correct style because of the brass threads being externally exposed in the front.
The best way to do this is to fabricate a pulling block for the module. What you need to do is take another piece of brass or aluminum, and drill a hole, then tap it for the module threads. This way, you can lock the block up in the vice and wiggle on the laser body to get the module to pull out. If you use the silver cap, it is possible to get the module out by using it to pull on with the vice, but depending on how well the module is secured, you may end up bending the silver cap to do it.
Take a leather belt and make a U shape. Use the leather in the vice to grip the silver cap, and you want to slowly rock the body back and forth with leverage until it starts to move and slide.
Once you get the module out, you're going to remove the crystal assembly with the Nd:YVO4+KTP glued in. It is a brass ring with square cutout in the middle. The crystal set is glued to that brass ring, and the brass ring is epoxied to the front of the diode heatsink.
You want to remove the block holding the crystals, and not remove the crystals from that block.
Once it is off, you want to set the pot on the driver so that you are getting the most 808nm output from the diode. You will need a laser meter for that. You could check amperage if you don't have a laser meter, but it is a much less precise method. The pot sometimes achieves more amperage in different directions, and you will have to check. It will likely be counterclockwise for more amperage.
After you have the IR diode outputting as much 808nm as it can, now you want to align the crystal set yourself, something which was most likely done by a machine, and never tuned with the precision of a person.
The previous epoxy should be scraped off with a knife, and be careful not to damage the diode lens or the crystal set. Keep the knife on the brass. First do a dry run, moving the crystal set around while viewing the green output which is coming out onto a wall from the IR light entering the crystal set. Not only move the crystal side to side, but rotate it. This is because the output of the IR is in a line shape or rectangle, and by rotating the crystal, you will find a point where it can take in the most light and output the most green. You will notice in some areas of the crystal, it is not outputting much green light, but in a "sweet spot", it will output the most green light. Now put some 5-min epoxy on the crystal brass ring. Put it on the sink, and be sure no epoxy spreads onto the lasing surfaces. Find the sweet spot which you had before while shining it, and keep the crystal there while the epoxy is hardening. It will finally harden, and you can put everything back together, and enjoy a laser which now outputs much more than it likely ever would untouched.
When you are done with that, put a piece of paper out at 50 yards with a 2x2" square drawn on it. Have a camera up-close video taping the paper, while you shine the paper while resting the laser at 50 yards away. Take the video and go frame by frame until you find a frame when the dot is on the square and you can visually measure it. Now adjust the lens a little at a time, and keep repeating the process until you have set divergence very good. These lasers can usually achieve under 1.3mRad divergence. So the dot will be just slightly larger than the 2x2" square, like 2.3x2.3" or smaller.
