how many lumen is this flashlight?

[cruzer]

[FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]someone emailed me this telling me its a cheap flashlight with around 350 lumen, just curious what you guys think. im a noob when it comes to flashlights

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220628464941?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
[/FONT]
[FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]http://www.ebay.com/itm/251132690044?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649[/FONT]

 

[Newuser01]

there is no indication of how hard it is driven ? So there is no way for anyone to know. Nor would I believe in what they say. 1000 lumen? not even close. may be under 600 lumen if you are lucky.

 

[StarHalo]

The link you provided is to a flashlight body - this means it contains no emitter or electronics, it's hollow/empty. I can say definitely that it emits exactly zero lumens.

 

[Tiresius]

I guess according to the switch it has, the body can handle at most 300 lumens. It's still an empty shell though.

 

[cruzer]

k i asked him about it and he said this is the light he bought that he says is 350 lumens
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079EP0KK/?tag=cpf0b6-20

sorry for the late reply, i couldnt find this thread without posting 3-4 posts and getting all the warning and messages off

 

[StarHalo]

That light is powered by an 18650, which is a lithium-ion cell; those are definitely not for new users, as they can explode if improperly used or mishandled.

If you're just looking for bright + cheap, check your local stores for the MiniMag Pro LED, it uses two standard AA cells and puts out 226 lumens, and you won't have to pay shipping..

 

[cruzer]

thanks for your concern, but i already own a light with an 18650 and have had no problems.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYRAY-Sky-...0200926?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item257403dfde

im just trying to figure out how many lumen these lights are actually putting out

 

[TEEJ]

You can't figure it out on that kind of cheap light...they simply lie outright on the specs assuming you can't tell the difference.

They can lie about the LED (Cree = kree = quee, and so forth), that amps the voltages, the lumens the cd or lux...you name it, they will lie about it.

:D

Same for the batteries btw...you never know what's under the wrapper.

 

[cruzer]

thanks, that mostly the reason i would like to find out so if its really putting out like 50 lumens then i can buy a real flashlight(brands ive seen on here) that wont lie and i can get the brightness it says im getting

 

[TEEJ]

If you go to the reviews, and check out the lights and see what meshes with your needs...I'm sure some will look promising to you.

Plan B is to go to the CPF Marketplace...and see what used lights are for sale. A lot of flashaholics buy a light to check it out, and then sell it to get the next one ("Catch and Release Program"). :D

Remember that lumens are only ONE measure of brightness...and are not even close to a definitive answer to what you probably need/would want.

More = Better for the most part...but for example a 131 lumen light can look brighter to many people than a 750 lumen light (examples)...and the measurement are real and not fake...its just that lumens, without knowing the beam angle and other factors, don't tell you as much as you think it should.

 

[cruzer]

indeed your right.

but what can i do? can i take a shot of my flashlights and compare them to the ones in the review section? is that an acceptable way to compare, or my best option?

 

[StarHalo]

Everyone wishes they would have skipped all the cheap lights in the beginning and had just gotten one or two good lights.

Get one or two good lights, you won't care about the output of your current lights after that..

 

[TEEJ]

indeed your right.

but what can i do? can i take a shot of my flashlights and compare them to the ones in the review section? is that an acceptable way to compare, or my best option?

Well, if you mean shots of the beams they cast, say at the same targets for apples and apples...and say what about the beams you have that you want to improve upon...then, sure, it can help.

:D

 

[langham]

Just send me the link to the light and I will tell you about how bright it is. These guys could probably tell you as well. The thing is that these lights do lie a lot, but they have some truth to them and if you know enough you can tell. Another thing is, if you don't know all that much about lights, electronics and have time and equipment to mod I would say that they are right and that you should stick to the branded led lights that have warranties and product reviews. I personally just order an led driver with all of my lights and replace the stock one when I get it, this way I will know what I am getting. I also only buy XML emitters as I see all others as a waist of my time. I look at the rest of the light's design to determine what I will use it for. I have a $30 light that I got from DX that will out throw a stock TN31. In case you don't know that is the throw king and it comes with an XML-U2 bin emitter and the one from DX came with a T6 (after performing all of the same modifications to the TN31 it was once again the king of throw). I would actually recommend if you are in to throw or just flashlights in general, just cutting out all of the middle men and going to onestopthrowshop.com and picking one of the three lights that they sell. You will not be disappointed. For the linked light that isn't just a shell I would say that again it will matter what the led is driven at, but whatever that value turns out to be just go to the Cree data sheet and find out for yourself, subtract around 80% for a p60 module and I would say that at max it is getting around the 500lm mark for a short period and then falls down to the 450 range.

 

[yellow]

The link you provided is to a flashlight body - this means it contains no emitter or electronics, it's hollow/empty. I can say definitely that it emits exactly zero lumens.

the link that pops up to me NOW:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220628464941?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

is for a flashlight BODY only and thus this "light" has ZERO lumen ...
...whatever Led-insert You put in, that will be the output


The 2nd "link" is for a cheapo insert. If run on possible full, will can about 500-800 Lumen. But its simply depending on luck.
(I recommend a "nailbender" P60 XM-L insert - as usual. Simply the best. It will have about real 600-700 lumen, much more, than any cheapo insert is said to have.
And You can choose the tint ... no "blue" output)

 

[cruzer]

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/7167/img0596wg.jpg


Your image is too large and has been replaced with a link. Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm

 

[langham]

You can do this if you use outside beam shots and read what is said. This will tell you lux if anything and you also need to post what settings the camera has. This is overexposed, and it seems to be around 400lm if I had to guess, but again it is better to tell lm output by a ceiling bounce test. Try taking a picture of a room lit up by a lamp and then by the light and compare the 2 of them with the same camera settings. Say what bulb the lamp had in it, that will give a more accurate estimation. The SKU: 127684 from DX.com is a great driver for an XML emitter and if you solder the last star on the right with the outer ring it gives you a great hi-lo option. That light has a bad non-regulated driver that will slowly get dimmer with battery voltage drop. Do you know how to solder? It is worth learning especially for cheap lights like that one. I have the same body and an XML drop in, I like it for a work light, but it will eventually break so I have a different one for EDC.