How much would a watch like this cost?

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Raven

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 16, 2002
Messages
816
Listed features:

new
stainless
swiss made
mechanical
luminous hands
mineral crystal lens
screw down case
screw down crown
17+ jewels
chronometer

hour
minute
seconds (optional)
date
chronograph

Raven
 
Holy COW!!
Wait till you search the web.
The cost can be ~ $70 for a Poljot or Vostok (not sure if they have screw down crown) to several hundred for a Seiko.
That's a very broad range you have to choose and so many other brands. Oris, Orient,on and on.
I've learned a lot from
poor man's watch forum
Seiko citizen forum
MWR Military watch forum

Right now looking for a Seiko Diver, 007 or Monster black/orange, as their luminosity is rockin.
Tom
 
You've listed both chronograph and chronometer so, off the top of my head, I'd think of a Breitling, or an Omega. They should start on the good side of $5K.

A larger step up would be a Rolex Daytona, for about twice that.

Cheers.
 
Mechanical, chronometer, chronograph are the magic words here (with chronometer being the biggest factor dictating price). I think the cheapest will be the Omega Speedmaster or Dynamic series w/ pricings ranging from $800-$4K+ (depending on usage and features). And I don't think there are any CSOC certified watches that uses mineral glass (sapphire is the norm). As for the jewels, any mechancial chronograph should have more than 17 jewels, if I am not mistaken.
 
Take a look at www.limes-watches.com the Principio chronographs start under $1K. They are German made with the usual ETA (Swiss) movements.

I think a Speedmaster chronograph starts around $2K. I don't know if it has a screw-down crown. I don't know how much Seamaster chronos cost, if they're still being made. I'm also not sure if they have chronometer certification, though that's pretty meaningless these days. I think Ulysse Nardin has some certified chronographs.

Chronographs like Vostok, Poljot, and even Seiko are terrific values if you're a watch buff, but aren't going to have anything like the finish quality of an Omega or Limes. I don't see that much point to them--if all you want is an tough, inexpensive, functional chronograph, skip the mechanical headaches and get a digital. (I don't know if Seiko even makes any mechanical chronographs these days).

Your best bet is to ask on the public forum at www.timezone.com (I don't think you need to register there in order to post). Those guys are into watches the way CPF'ers are into flashlights. They know everything.
 
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If you have your heart set on a chronometer with a mechanical movement, you are talking over a $1000 for sure. In modern watch parlance, a chronometer has been rigorously tested for accuracy - a very expensive proposition.
"The Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers is a Swiss testing laboratory that certifies watches, or rather their movements, as 'chronometers'. Each movement is individually tested over a 15-day period in different positions and temperatures, and passes only if it shows a loss of fewer than five seconds per day. Watches that have certified movements will usually be stamped with an inscription that says 'Chronometer', 'Certified Chronometer', or 'Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified'."
Pat
 
Yes, of the three magic words, it is chronometer that bumps the cost way up, yes?

Raven
 
I wouldn't necessarily say that. Chronometer certification used to be basically for movement/watch designs. A manufacturer would design a new watch, and send some units to the COSC test lab for certification to see that the design was sound. COSC usually tested just a few hundred watches a year. Then Rolex got into getting ALL their production certified and shipping a certificate with each watch, basically as a marketing gimmick, and other manufacturers did the same thing. COSC had to radically enlarge its test lab operation, but as a result, individual tests no longer cost that much.

The standards for certification aren't that hard to meet with today's technology, so the certificate doesn't mean much.
 
[ QUOTE ]
paulr said:
I think a Speedmaster chronograph starts around $2K. I don't know if it has a screw-down crown. I don't know how much Seamaster chronos cost, if they're still being made. I'm also not sure if they have chronometer certification, though that's pretty meaningless these days. I think Ulysse Nardin has some certified chronographs.


[/ QUOTE ]

I second the TZ reference (I visit there all the time). The recent Omega Speedmaster chronographs should be chronometer certified, IIRC. As for the recent Seamaster chronographs (all of them are chronometer certified), there are three chronograph versions (standard, America's Cup, and ACR using the Regatta timer) and all are really nice. I have a Seamaster ACR. It performs flawlessly. Look at the Sales corner over at TZ and you should be able to pick up a Speedmaster for under $1K in really good condition. Even the Speedmaster Day-Date version is going for just over $1K. And only rookies pay the full retail for high-end watches. You can get upto 30-40% off the MSRP for new watches just by looking at online dealers that also offer the manufacturer's warranty.

I somewhat disagree on the remarks of the COSC as being useless. A watch in this price range is not intended just to tell time (a $5 digital watch would perform much better for this purpose). It is a piece of jewelry. Thus, the COSC certification is the marketing hype behind this jewelry (the same thing about wearing a Tiffany ring...it's the brand name). COSC used to mean quality in the past, but it is more of a marketing hype (that is working successfully btw) today. This is true for almost everything we use like cars, clothing, wallets, phones, pens, and dare I mention flashlights. Just look at comparable watches that are not COSC certified (Sinn, Tissot, Movado, etc.) and you will see that they are substantially cheaper on the market even though they essentially use the same movements as Rolex, AP, Omega, etc.

EDIT: it looks like I was wrong stating that all recent chronograph Speedmaster being chronometer certified. Only the Speedmaster Racing versions and some Limited Series are chronometer certified. The standard Speedmaster series (except for those mentioned) are not chronometer certified.
 
Raven,
Have you considered a battery powered watch instead of automatics? Breitling has a few chronometer quartz watches. Automatics actually cost more because they need servicing every 3-5 years, usually at the manufacture's Servicing Center. Replacing the battery is much cheaper and can be done at most certified local dealers. Also, self winding (w/ no manual winding option available) mechanical watches are not friendly if you own more than 1 watch since it needs to be worn to "charge" up (realistic power reserve is usually about 40 hours). I have to buy a dedicated watch winder just so I don't have to wear the same watch everyday. Just something for you to think about...
 
I don't want a quartz watch. I already have that.

I'm not a snob, but I'm attracted to the idea of owning a time piece that is almost identical in function and form to similar models made decades earlier.

Old school baby /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

BTW: Thanks everyone for answering my question. I'm curious if I left any major features off my list?

Raven
 
Um, there's all kinds of features that aren't on your list, that have shown up in watches at one time or another. What are you looking for in a watch, and how much do you want to spend? Actually I recommend just going over to timezone.com and hanging out there for a while, reading the articles (there are lots of good ones) and maybe asking questions on their discussion board, so you'll learn something about the subject before making a big expenditure.

As for COSC, Langes aren't certified and I don't think that's bothered any of their buyers. It wouldn't have occurred to me to even wonder whether any Pateks are certified.

If you want a really cool looking, techno-style mechanical chronograph with a sense of history, I'd say check out the Omega Speedmaster moon watch. That's the one that the Apollo astronauts used. Legend has it that NASA selected it in the 1960's by trying out a bunch of watches that they bought at some jewelry store in Houston and picking the one that best survived temperature cycling, shock, and so forth. Omega didn't find out til a long time later that astronauts were wearing their watch and it had beaten out everyone else's. Of course it became a big marketing thing for them after that (they even published a book about it) and the model has stayed in production ever since then.
 
All kinds of features, or main features?

I thought that..

swiss made
mechanical
17+ jewels
chronometer
finish

..were the five main features that separated the dogs from the puppies.

Raven
 
Oh ok, there's tons of those. Chronometer means a watch that's been tested to meet a certain standard of accuracy. You also said chronograph earlier, which means a stopwatch. Those are a lot more expensive and most of them are intended to look sporty. So do I understand you want an individual COSC certificate for the watch? Other preferences, like styling (sporty, techy, formal/dressy, military, etc.)? Sporty watches subdivide further into the "diver" type (Rolex) and the "aviation" type (IWC Mark XV).

I sort of cringe to say this, but maybe you should just buy a Rolex Submariner and be done with it. You get something recognized all over, that defined the whole category of dive watches, hasn't changed its appearance in decades and still looks good, everyone recognizes and admires it, and every one of them is COSC certified. The cringing is because Rolex is sort of the Maglite of fancy watches, something that the public thinks of as a top class watch but that the connoisseurs consider to be sort of mass market.
 
I was a regular TimeZone member for years attended the luncheons (Lange at the Ritz-Carlton was the best) etc. etc.

One thing I learned early on from this groups and personal experience is that COSC certification is more a marketing tool in a modern watch than anything else.

Certainly when the certification process was established it was an invaluable tool ensuring your watch was accurate.

Today however, most currently manufactured Swiss watches will pass the accuracy standards without modifications and the COSC certificate is used as a marketing tool and jack the price up. Rolex and Omega currently play heavily in using this to market their watches.

paulR you are right on the mark in every way, I absolutely agree with your opinions on Rolex.


GregR

P.S. If you think the CPF motto of buy both is expensive, sit next to a TZ member when he tells you he could decide if he should buy the Yellow or Pink gold Lange...so he bought both for about $37,000
 
Rolex and Omegas are for me too big and expensive, with all those features I guess is more affordable and "deifferent" design a Tag Heuer, medium size and you can choose automatic or quartz in the same model, "suiss made" certification under the number 6 and of course serial number.Would cost around $1,000-1,500 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
 
Forget the "Swiss" part and consider Sinn and Limes (Germany, but with ETA movements). If you want a chronograph, Sinn has many -- the line is a best buy and they make a great watch.

But your citerion of mineral glass is inconsistent with your other criteria. You'll find only Sapphire or acrylic crystals (each has advantages and disadvantages) in watches with your other options. For a chrono, you're really looking for a Valjoux 7750 (even if modified by the manufacturer) with the case and dial you like.
 
I find the chronometer function of analogue watches to be hard to read and lacking for good time/speed recording. Best use a digital for that.

Have you looked at the models by Invicta (Swiss made)or Sandoz ?
Smooth ETA movements, sapphire glass etc and Rolex Submariner looks for much, much less money.
 
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