How to disassemble 2CR5?

ltiu

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Does anyone here have experience disassembling a 2CR5?

Any tips how to?

Any pics?

What do you get?

What use are the individual cells?

Hoping for assistance on this matter.

Thank you.
 
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Does anyone here have experience disassembling a 2CR5? Any tips how to? Any pics? What do you get? What use are the individual cells?
No experience, but there's a couple threads around on disassembling CR223A, a similar battery with CR123A cells. The procedure and warning should be applicable here.

I've never seen a 2CR5, but from dimensions floating around the web, they seem like the cells would be 17450 or so. You could maybe use two of them like 17500s in a 3xCR123A flashlight, with a 6V bulb -- the springs would have to have over 10mm of slack, though. Three of them should fit in a 2x18650 light, though, which is perhaps more useful as they could use the same bulbs. Also, any light that can take CR123A or AA can probably take them, stock or with trivial modification.
 
A 2CR5 is simply 2 CR123 cells with their leads connected to make a ~6 volt battery, that's the case from the 2CR5 batteries that I've taken apart anyway. For anyone needing 2CR5 batteries, you may want to consider buying a couple of cheap CR123 cells and 'building' a 2CR5 buy taking the dead cells out of an old 2CR5 and replacing them, as 2 x CR123 is a lot cheaper than buying one 2CR5. As far as taking them apart, with some you can just twist the 2 CR123 cells until the leads break and then pull them out of the shell, though a dremel tool might be useful to cut the shell open.
 
Problem solved. I took the pludge and decided to disassemble one. It turns out that indeed, a 2CR5 has 2x CR123 inside. So I end up with 2 CR123 after disassembling one 2CR5.

I got good deals for these from Target at $2.46 for a pack of 2CR5. That's less that $1.25 for each CR123 I get. I cleaned the Clearance aisle of these. Got 13 packs total.
 
OP has a good point - these often get clearanced for a song. Bought five Duracell 223a lithiums, which are the same thing, at Publix for $1/ea. That kept me in skittles and beer for a little while. :D
 
Bought five Duracell 223a lithiums, which are the same thing, at Publix for $1/ea. That kept me in skittles and beer for a little while. :D

I once came upon a $1 Duracell 223 clearance at Fry's. I felt bad, because I only took 14 packs. There were close to 50 on sale. I should have grabbed them all!

I find that having these deals gives me an excuse to use more batteries.
 
As a reply to this thread:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=230401

I only use cells from disassembled 2CR5 (and CR223) in single cell lights, just as a precaution. I do not wish to be vented and gassed.

While disassembling, wear safety goggles and only do it in well ventilated areas. Be careful not to short the batteries while disassembling. Do not contact metal tools you are using with more than one cell at the same time.

Disassembly instructions:
Cut the plastic outer casing, very slowly. Once the plastic casing is cut, I would pry it open to expose the interior cell's tops and bottoms. I would then cut the contacting metal strips between each cell. Then remove (pull off) the metal strips sticking out of the tops and bottoms of each cell.
 
I got a bunch of these as they were on clearance at Target.

It was a complete waste of my time. I was expecting that once the plastic shell was removed, there would be two perfect cr123 batteries. The soldering on the leads is well done, so there are some bits left on both ends. The two batteries are also glued together and its almost impossible to remove it without removing the wrapper.

Considering energizer 123s are $1.5 at lighthound, it is not worth the effort.
 
I got a bunch of these as they were on clearance at Target.

It was a complete waste of my time. I was expecting that once the plastic shell was removed, there would be two perfect cr123 batteries. The soldering on the leads is well done, so there are some bits left on both ends. The two batteries are also glued together and its almost impossible to remove it without removing the wrapper.

You do not have to remove the wrapper completely. Just the part that is in-between each cell. You can then put some electrical tape on the exposed part of the battery.

Considering energizer 123s are $1.5 at lighthound, it is not worth the effort.

I agree somewhat, you need to invest time and effort to save a few cents.
 
Taking apart 2CR5 and CR-P2 (CR223)

couldn't find any related images here, so I'll share my little experiment... :devil:

both Sanyo brand made in Japan.

The packaging:
LitBatDis01.jpg

nothing special here, just a plain blister pack.

The battery:
LitBatDis02.jpg


After disassemble:
LitBatDis03.jpg

while disassembling, i accidentally shorted the contact, i didn't notice the short until few minutes later, the battery feels warm and it's getting warmer, I quickly get my SAK and try to pry open the contact by force, after a few sparks, i think i have broken the short. the battery starts to cool down and Voltage starts to rebound. pheeewwww... :sweat:
the Voltage measure 6.50V at the initial, during the short, it measure 5.86V and dropping and heating up, after taken apart, 1 measure 3.00V and another measure 3.02V resting.

The batteries:
LitBatDis04.jpg

you can still see some left over metal strips here...

Same batteries from another angle:
LitBatDis05.jpg

essentially, it's a 2 x CR123A, glued together and package in a plastic case.

now on to the CR-P2 (CR223):
LitBatDis06.jpg

move along, nothing special to see here...

the back of CR-P2:
LitBatDis07.jpg


the top of CR-P2:
LitBatDis08.jpg


the bottom of CR-P2 (after taking off the cover):
LitBatDis09.jpg

this CR-P2 is so much easier to pry open/take apart than 2CR5, but it's also a little easier to short too... :ohgeez:
yup, another short happens while pushing the batteries out, I left the metal strip intact while pushing and ignorantly didn't pay attention that the body is bare, nothing to protect them from come in contact with each other. BIG MISTAKE!!!
so the battery feels warm again and i quickly cut the metal strip. I notice however that the short happens to only 1 of the battery.
initial Voltage 6.5V, after taking them apart, 1 measure 2.98V while the other measure 3.25V

the casing after the batteries was taken out:
LitBatDis10.jpg


the parts together:
LitBatDis11.jpg

again, as these batteries are bare metal without any protective wrapping, don't let them come into contact with each other :poof:

something interesting here
LitBatDis12.jpg

no, that's not liquid leaking from the battery, it's rust.

wrapping the bare metal body with teflon tape:
LitBatDis13.jpg


perhaps someone could share photos of other brands here?

note to self:
- next time, start at the bottom cover. :banghead:
 
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Re: Taking apart 2CR5 and CR-P2 (CR223)

(Reviving old thread given these batteries are still in use by some so info here is still pertinent. Usual "Info provided for FYI only, do at your own risk" caveat applies.)

Was recently cleaning up my battery inventory and came across some really old 2CR5's that still read 6.12V and decided to look up how to take them apart and found this thread.

First up was a Kodak:
5723512738_563978ec2c.jpg


I definitely agree with rookie that one should start from the bottom cover first, there is less chance of shorting provided nothing shorts the tabs on the other end while you are working from the bottom:
5722957377_ce959eff57.jpg


Once you've pried the bottom off, you can then start prying the rest of the cover towards the top thus obviating the need to stick any metallic tool in the top and potentially shorting the tabs:
5722957441_07134160d7.jpg


The two cells are glued together, just need to carefully pull them apart (it may potentially rip the shrink wrap so pay heed to exposed metal after and tape/cover accordingly):
5723512950_7b77174291.jpg


I proceeded to take a Panasonic apart but had a MUCH harder time prying the bottom cover apart. Overall, the cover is much more solidly constructed/glued than the Kodak.

Cheers,
Tim
 
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