How to maximize new Surefire m3t

[Owen]

That's why I said it had gotten frustrating sometimes

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I really like the style of the m3 body; I don't want anything too big.

Tom

You can keep it that way. Just get 3x16340 IMR cells from AW and run the HO-M6R in your stock M3T. This is a killer setup.

Batteries available here-->> http://www.lighthound.com/AW-IMR163...LiMN-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_2626.html

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

M6 body is an alternate body just like a Leef body. Stock M3 body only allows 17mm cells, so to get additional battery configurations you need to bore it, add an A19 or A14, or purchase another body. M6 body, IMO, is more flexible, but to each his own.

With the stock M3T, you can use 3x 16340 or 2x1700, no modification needed. The M6 is only more flexible if you buy custom battery holders/adapters for it. With the stock battery carrier, you're pretty much stuck with primaries or 16340s.

 

[Cornkid]

thanks for the link; I'm definitely going to get the rechargeables and one of the high-output bulbs.

Any other regulated LED recommendations?

 

[Justin Case]

Yeah, that's not exactly top secret material....

Never said it was "top secret". What's your point? My post was for the benefit of the OP. Since he is asking about configurations that are "not exactly top secret material", including your beloved HO-M6R, it seems quite possible that he may not realize how LM rates their bulbs.

Nothing you've ever tested beats the HO-M6R? What have you tested? Since you are such a believer in actual performance, what actual performance measures did you test to arrive at your conclusion? Simply claiming that "it's a monster" tells us nothing. Output after 1 hour of continuous operation? Hot spot lux after 1 hr? Ruggedness after a drop test? Lamp lifetime? Or is the info "top secret"?

 

[Justin Case]

If you are moderately handy with a soldering iron and want to save some money on an LED tower, I'd sign up on the feeler thread for a Netkidz tower kit for $25 plus shipping. I'd then get a 17mm diam KD1640 1000mA buck driver for $4. Scavenge for a suitable center spring (e.g., remove a spring from an unused remote control or child's toy) -- free. Order an XP-G R4 on an 8mm round MCPCB from nailbender -- $9 (you might have to buy 2 min, $18). Assemble your tower. Total price ~$46 (assuming you already have Teflon-jacketed 24 ga hookup wire and some Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy). At 1000mA drive current, the XP-G-R4 should deliver a calculated 325 emitter lumens while requiring only about 3.3W of power. I've measured the KD1640 driver at about 90% efficiency, so that means the driver needs only about 3.7W. If you use 3x16340 at a nominal 11.1V, that means only about 0.3A current draw at the tail or well over 1 hr of uniform output, cool-running run time. If you use 2x17500 at a nominal 7.4V, that gives about 0.5A draw and over 2 hr calculated run time. Realistically, I would expect even lower Vf at 1000mA, and thus longer run time. The datasheet spec for the XP-E, for example, is 3.4V at 700mA, while I've measured ~3.2V at 700mA for six different XP-Es.