How to open an Inova X5

[maxspeeds]

I just received an Inova X5 and would like to change out the green LEDs. Does anyone have experience taking this light apart? I tried pushing the LEDs from the front hoping that the whole light engine would slide out of the tube, but that didn't work . I also tried searching and found this http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=95626 but the OP doesn't reveal how he got everything apart. Hopefully someone has experience modding the Inova.

 

[carrot]

The "freeze pop" method should do it. Inovas are press-fit.

 

[datiLED]

I just received an Inova X5 and would like to change out the green LEDs. Does anyone have experience taking this light apart? I tried pushing the LEDs from the front hoping that the whole light engine would slide out of the tube, but that didn't work . I also tried searching and found this http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=95626 but the OP doesn't reveal how he got everything apart. Hopefully someone has experience modding the Inova.

It is done using the freeze pop method. The light is filled with water, (depress the piston few times) and placed it in the freezer overnight. If the light doesn't open on the first try, thaw, drain, refill, and try again. It will open with a few freeze cycles.

The back of the head comes apart after the allen screw is removed from the center of the head assembly. There is a silicone cover that is removed, and the LED's and resistors are emedded in epoxy.

I have only modded the blue and white X5's. They use 36 Ohm resistors for each LED. Watch the value of the resistors on the green LED version. They may be different, and alter the current that the replacement LED's receive (They could potentially be a higher value, resulting in a lower current). Don't stray too far from the 36 Ohm value if you replace the resistors. I used 33 Ohm on an old X5, and the GS LED's are being overdriven to the point that the light gets warm. But wow, it sure is bright!

 

[pyro]

Basically you fill the light with water and put it in the feezer.
As the water freezes it expands and pushes the led assembly out a little bit.
Repeat as often as neccesary and put some fine new LEDs in.

 

[maxspeeds]

Awesome! Many thanks carrot, datiLED, and pyro. :twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs Did a search for "freeze pop" and found these:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=210549

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94390

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=52043

 

[Cuso]

Good luck bro, don't forget to take pictures...:thumbsup:

 

[donham]

Caution--you may damage the flashlight with the freeze procedure.
Yeah, the freeze pop "did it" allright. It split open the barrel of my 5 LED Inova, leaving a 2 inch long crack in one of the grooves because that is where the metal is thin.

Next thing I will try is a mechanical method.
That was trial number 3 in the freezer, after trials one and 2 did not budge the press fit. For trial 3, I first filled the sink with hot water and left that set for an hour to de-aerate, then filled the flashlight completely. 8 hours in the freezer still did not budge the press fit, but instead ruptured the barrel.

Procedure seems to give unpredictable results.

 

[greenlight]

Can't you just buy a green version?

 

[maxspeeds]

Can't you just buy a green version?

I had the green version and found it useless. I changed them out for white LEDs.

On another note, anyone have success removing the epoxy surrounding the LEDs on the earlier twist only (grooved) X5s?

 

[datiLED]

On another note, anyone have success removing the epoxy surrounding the LEDs on the earlier twist only (grooved) X5s?

Heat. Don't overheat (temperature) the epoxy, but heat it for a long time.

I have a mug warmer that I use to heat lights for opening, softening epoxy, etc. Leaving the head on the mug warmer for a few hours will soften the epoxy to a firm putty like texture and weaken it's bond. Use a dental pick, or other tool to remove the epoxy while it is warm. It will harden as it cools, though not to it's original hardness.

 

[maxspeeds]

Heat. Don't overheat (temperature) the epoxy, but heat it for a long time.

I have a mug warmer that I use to heat lights for opening, softening epoxy, etc. Leaving the head on the mug warmer for a few hours will soften the epoxy to a firm putty like texture and weaken it's bond. Use a dental pick, or other tool to remove the epoxy while it is warm. It will harden as it cools, though not to it's original hardness.

Thanks, datiLED! I'm going to try your technique. It sounds better than my original plan of using a heat gun or oven at low setting. I wonder if boiling it in water (in a plastic bag) will also work? Since theoretically, the mug warmers probably won't go above 100 degrees C.