How to turn off drl on my new 2010 honda crv??

[fishhead41h]

Anybody know how to turn off the daytime running lights on a 2010 honda crv?? Just ordered a set of Phillips Xtreme's and would like to make them last longer. Thanks John

 

[Qship1996]

Are you willing to forgo the added safety of accident avoidance to extend a simple bulbs life? Our Highlander uses its highbeams as DRL and we are still on factory installed bulbs at 45,000 miles.

 

[Ilikeshinythings]

I can't stand DRLs. I can't tell you how to turn them off either. I would check your owners manual because unless you find someone on here with a CRV who has done this, most people are probably going to tell you to check a CRV forum or consult your service manual. GL!

 

[-Virgil-]

No, most people are going to wag their fingers at you and preach ignorant little sermons. They don't know what they're talking about, but that doesn't stop them from babbling about how dangerous it is to disable DRLs.

Fact is, the potential safety benefit from well-implemented DRLs is real, but it is small. Poorly-implemented DRLs (such as reduced-brightness high beams) create safety problems that reduce, eliminate, or reverse the safety benefit.

Original poster: most likely the DRL function on your CR-V is controlled by the body computer. We are pretty much past the days of separate DRL modules. It is quite probable the DRL function can be turned off by a dealer service department using their diagnostic computer to interface with your car's computer; the trick is finding a dealer that will agree to turn them off. DRLs are not required in the USA and there's no law or regulation against turning them off, but many dealers will refuse on general principle. Afraid of cooked-up liability suits, I guess.

DRLs are required in Canada, so if that's where you are you shouldn't disable them. Europe-wide from 2011, too, though that's a much better DRL regulation -- it calls for dedicated white DRLs on every vehicle. The cheap and variously nasty implementations allowed in North America (high or low beam headlights, amber or white or yellow, etc.) are not allowed.

 

[Apollo Cree]

My Mazda Tribute has a switch that should make the DRL's work correctly, but it doesn't.

The leftmost position turns on the lights when the ignition is on. The center position should be off, but the #*$&#$#@)#& morons programmed it such that the DRL's are still turned on in the off position, unless the parking brake is depressed. I've read somewhere that you can program the computer to turn the DRL's off in this position, but you've got to have the special computer programming tools.

 

[Alaric Darconville]

Are you willing to forgo the added safety of accident avoidance to extend a simple bulbs life? Our Highlander uses its highbeams as DRL and we are still on factory installed bulbs at 45,000 miles.

I've read that the GM-sponsored study proves DRLs reduce accidents. NIGHTTIME accidents.

I'd suspect proper use of headlights would do the same thing.

High-beam DRLs cause a lot of irritation glare for other drivers. I'd expect proper use of headlights would NOT cause a lot of irritation glare for other drivers.

I disabled the DRLs on my '01 Corolla (despite them being on the low beam circuit, at least) so that I could have full control of my headlights. It's important to me to be able to turn my headlights off when I approach guard shacks, or just turning into my own driveway so the headlights don't sweep accross my neighbors' windows while they're trying to watch TV.

Also, it saves (admittedly, a small amount of) fuel.

 

[rushnrockt]

The leftmost position turns on the lights when the ignition is on. The center position should be off, but the #*$&#$#@)#& morons programmed it such that the DRL's are still turned on in the off position, unless the parking brake is depressed.

It appears that your DRLs work exactly as intended.

 

[zeramant86]

If it's computer controlled the dealership should be able to disable them, if they are willing.

 

[Alaric Darconville]

Anybody know how to turn off the daytime running lights on a 2010 honda crv??

For the '07 CRV, it's fuse #37 (7.5A fuse). It MAY be the same on the 2010. The lids for the fuseboxes should have a legend on them if the fuses are not labeled at the sockets themselves.

Be sure to verify all other light functions work as intended before roading the vehicle.

If it's computer controlled the dealership should be able to disable them, if they are willing.

In the United States, they are not a required safety item, so if they are unwilling because they're "required by law", they are wrong. Granted, they have the right to refuse service to anyone, but it probably won't be a problem anyway -- it's quick money for them. Hopefully, the fuse trick works, so you can avoid the hassle in the first place.

 

[fishhead41h]

Pulled the fuse, DRL are now off, now lets see if my new Phillips bulbs last any longer?? seem to be a little brighter than factory bulbs Thanks John

 

[Apollo Cree]

It appears that your DRLs work exactly as intended.

Exactly as intended by morons who believe that the end users should be told what to do by big brother.

 

[rushnrockt]

Exactly as intended by morons who believe that the end users should be told what to do by big brother.

Putting aside the fact that this is an underhanded insult, you implied that the system was somehow broken, which does not appear to be the case. My VW Golf had the same setup, big whoop. Now if you don't like the way the system is made, that's a whole different bag of kittens. I am sure you can find a better forum to talk about your dislike for the big brother.

 

[TriChrome]

This is a guess as I have a 2007 Honda Civic, but if I flip my ignition key forward (while the car is already running, like I'm going to start it again), my DRL's turn off.

 

[FA5Si]

It's also fuse #37 on the current, 8th generation Civic. I guess Honda didn't change that for the CR-V. In any case, you'd get the best info asking at a Honda-related forum if pulling that fuse doesn't work.

 

[Popsiclestix]

I'm curious as to how much having a DRL on vs off impacts bulb life. Are there any studies shown on it?

 

[Alaric Darconville]

I'm curious as to how much having a DRL on vs off impacts bulb life. Are there any studies shown on it?

There are two ways to look at that. One, is that according to some sources, bulb life is exponential to the power of -13 with voltage change, so if the rated life of the bulb is 350hrs at 13.2V, but it's run at 60% power (or 7.9V), then that bulb would have a runtime of 31.6 years (276,934.44hrs -- surely that formula has some bounds on it, or my calculations are wrong).

On the other hand, if the temperature doesn't get high enough, the halogen cycle will not complete, which shortens the bulb life.

 

[-Virgil-]

There are two ways to look at that. One, is that according to some sources, bulb life is exponential to the power of -13 with voltage change, so if the rated life of the bulb is 350hrs at 13.2V, but it's run at 60% power (or 7.9V), then that bulb would have a runtime of 31.6 years (276,934.44hrs -- surely that formula has some bounds on it, or my calculations are wrong).

On the other hand, if the temperature doesn't get high enough, the halogen cycle will not complete, which shortens the bulb life.

You're quite correct on all of the above. Yes, the -13 exponent does give extraordinarily long lifespans, and electrically they're accurate. But you have to read such a result not as "32 years" but as "electrical factors aren't going to determine the bulb life". Vibration-induced failure will kill it long before then in automotive service. Also correct that the halogen cycle doesn't happen (or doesn't happen efficiently) when bulb wall temperature is insufficient. This greatly shortens the filament lifespan because filament tungsten boils off and isn't redeposited, so eventually a thin spot will "wear through" and the filament will fail, but in the meantime the bulb wall will progressively opacify, so even if the filament lights up, its image is defocused and its light is diffused and partially occluded, thus reducing the power and focus of the beam. Eventually, with several hours of runtime at full rated voltage, the bulb wall will clean up and the filament will be renewed by the halogen cycle, but few of us get the opportunity to use our high beams for hours at a time. The smaller the bulb envelope, the lower the critical voltage below which the halogen cycle will not occur. So for example an H1 with tiny envelope will tolerate extensive low-voltage operation and show no bulb staining, while a 9004 or something like it won't.

 

[FA5Si]

You're quite correct on all of the above. Yes, the -13 exponent does give extraordinarily long lifespans, and electrically they're accurate. But you have to read such a result not as "32 years" but as "electrical factors aren't going to determine the bulb life". Vibration-induced failure will kill it long before then in automotive service. Also correct that the halogen cycle doesn't happen (or doesn't happen efficiently) when bulb wall temperature is insufficient. This greatly shortens the filament lifespan because filament tungsten boils off and isn't redeposited, so eventually a thin spot will "wear through" and the filament will fail, but in the meantime the bulb wall will progressively opacify, so even if the filament lights up, its image is defocused and its light is diffused and partially occluded, thus reducing the power and focus of the beam. Eventually, with several hours of runtime at full rated voltage, the bulb wall will clean up and the filament will be renewed by the halogen cycle, but few of us get the opportunity to use our high beams for hours at a time. The smaller the bulb envelope, the lower the critical voltage below which the halogen cycle will not occur. So for example an H1 with tiny envelope will tolerate extensive low-voltage operation and show no bulb staining, while a 9004 or something like it won't.

So, if the tips of my 9005 capsules look brown, this is related to deposits of sublimated tungsten resulting from too little heat generated while run as a DRL?

 

[-Virgil-]

So, if the tips of my 9005 capsules look brown, this is related to deposits of sublimated tungsten resulting from too little heat generated while run as a DRL?

Correct.

 

[FA5Si]

Thanks.