IQ switch from niteize, alternatives?
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Mine works great, not sure why you think otherwise. How did you decide the light is "crippled" at 100%?
I dont know of anything remotely like it.
Yenster
Newly Enlightened
Interesting...I was thinking about getting one but I didn't like the fact that it always consumes power during storage. Now I'm for sure not getting one. Thanks for the info.
bfg9000
Flashlight Enthusiast
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Remember the MiniMag has its own twisty switch to disconnect the batteries, for when the blinking "find me" idle mode of the IQ switch is not needed. Unlike every other light with a momentary button for an on-off switch and no lockout tailcap, the IQ equipped Mag does not need to consume power when it is off. Think of the stock switch as an arming switch, or a safety.
The loss has been widely reported here to only be 15% in the more recent IQ switches, compared to the huge loss recorded for the sample tested in 2006.
The loss has been widely reported here to only be 15% in the more recent IQ switches, compared to the huge loss recorded for the sample tested in 2006.
Wow! Those numbers suck.
But I just went and checked and I cant even tell any difference between the original cap and the IQ switch.
I did clean the threads and put dielectric grease on them. If you dont already have one I recommend it to you.
when did you buy yours?
about 2-3 weeks ago
gunga
Flashaholic
Interesting observations.
I had an IQ switch a few months ago, but returned it because I found it dropped output a little too much on with my smj2 insert. Not huge, but it wasn't that bright to begin with! (comparing to Kroll clicky switch).
I'm now using an IQ switch on a seoul modded Terralux TLE-5, and I don't really notice much drop in output at all (compared to a Terralux TCS-1 clicky). So, it's nice to have the multi-modes on a minimag. Kinda fun.
Keep in mind they use PWM (I estimate 120-200 Hz) to dim the light, so that's not for everyone.
Also, the 14.5 minute timer on the light can be a bit annoying.
I still think it's kinda cool for this, my nightstand light.
I had an IQ switch a few months ago, but returned it because I found it dropped output a little too much on with my smj2 insert. Not huge, but it wasn't that bright to begin with! (comparing to Kroll clicky switch).
I'm now using an IQ switch on a seoul modded Terralux TLE-5, and I don't really notice much drop in output at all (compared to a Terralux TCS-1 clicky). So, it's nice to have the multi-modes on a minimag. Kinda fun.
Keep in mind they use PWM (I estimate 120-200 Hz) to dim the light, so that's not for everyone.
Also, the 14.5 minute timer on the light can be a bit annoying.
I still think it's kinda cool for this, my nightstand light.
john46268
Newly Enlightened
The review states that the package declares 3x battery life... so thats why it runs the lamp at a lower power, apparenty. 3 times the battery life has to come from somewhere. I have opne but have not tried it yet... maybe its about time I did!
Happy Lighting!:twothumbs
Happy Lighting!:twothumbs
sims2k
Enlightened
Love the IQ switch for its multimode but I don't like the drop in light output. I can see the difference when using the IQ switch beside the Terralux TCS-1 switch.
PlayboyJoeShmoe
Flashaholic
I got one today (along with a second "1 Watt" bi-pin drop in.
No it has no memory. It starts at high every time. And yes, it will eat power. Every time the red led flashes, the 1w blinks ever so slightly.
And I wouldn't really want to use the original head twist as I think the bi-pins might get twisted.
The multi mode (well at least the first three) are COOL!
Edit: I could not detect any brightness difference with a Lambda LUXIII pill between IQ on high and Kroll.
No it has no memory. It starts at high every time. And yes, it will eat power. Every time the red led flashes, the 1w blinks ever so slightly.
And I wouldn't really want to use the original head twist as I think the bi-pins might get twisted.
The multi mode (well at least the first three) are COOL!
Edit: I could not detect any brightness difference with a Lambda LUXIII pill between IQ on high and Kroll.
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lumenal
Enlightened
The 1 watt will quit blinking as the voltage drops; I've only noticed this on brand new, fresh cells.
I only twist the head once I'm done using the light (about 1/3 of an inch), in order to disengage the IQ switch and its blinking red "find me" LED. But the light is still one click from activation, its just not using any power. Not much stress on the bi-pins.
The IQ switch reviewed at FLRs is nothing like the new, improved, more robust version.
I haven't noticed any drastic reduction in output like the old version.
Plus, this IQ switch works great with the red, 3 LED NiteIze drop-in. Makes a nice, easy on the eyes nature call light.
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Luminescent
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2007
- Messages
- 399
I have an IQ switch which I purchased in the full set with the Niteize 1W mini-mag drop-in.
I found the color very nasty on the original NiteIze 1W drop-in's emitter.
It had a horrible puke green color that was absolutely the worst I have ever seen on any 'white' LED.
I also have an older teralux drop-in (the original side-emitter version) which just by luck of the draw has perhaps the best color of any light I own, but when I tried the IQ switch with that drop-in it did noticeably dim down.
Not so bad you couldn't use the thing, but enough to be a problem in a light that only has a first generation Luxeon to start with.
So I exchanged the NiteIze IQ switch/emitter set. The second set has a little better tint on the emitter, but the problem driving the teralux remains, so I just use the NiteIze IQ switch with it's own native drop-in and that seems to run nice and bright.
Niteize needs to upgrade to a lower RDSon switching fet, because this is almost certainly a spec issue with on-state series resistance of the chopper MosFet they are using for power switching and PWM in the IQ switching circuit.
With with the original incan bulb and some drop-in's the current demands are apparently a bit higher than the IQ switch's MosFET can handle without causing excess switching losses and this is what causes things to dim down a little with the IQ switch in the circuit.
But, again, it seems to work fine with the NiteIze supplied drop-in, and I plan to change out the emitter in that drop-in for a SSC U-Bin eventually anyway.
Based on how well it works now, this should be a really great combination.
I found the color very nasty on the original NiteIze 1W drop-in's emitter.
It had a horrible puke green color that was absolutely the worst I have ever seen on any 'white' LED.
I also have an older teralux drop-in (the original side-emitter version) which just by luck of the draw has perhaps the best color of any light I own, but when I tried the IQ switch with that drop-in it did noticeably dim down.
Not so bad you couldn't use the thing, but enough to be a problem in a light that only has a first generation Luxeon to start with.
So I exchanged the NiteIze IQ switch/emitter set. The second set has a little better tint on the emitter, but the problem driving the teralux remains, so I just use the NiteIze IQ switch with it's own native drop-in and that seems to run nice and bright.
Niteize needs to upgrade to a lower RDSon switching fet, because this is almost certainly a spec issue with on-state series resistance of the chopper MosFet they are using for power switching and PWM in the IQ switching circuit.
With with the original incan bulb and some drop-in's the current demands are apparently a bit higher than the IQ switch's MosFET can handle without causing excess switching losses and this is what causes things to dim down a little with the IQ switch in the circuit.
But, again, it seems to work fine with the NiteIze supplied drop-in, and I plan to change out the emitter in that drop-in for a SSC U-Bin eventually anyway.
Based on how well it works now, this should be a really great combination.
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Luminescent
Enlightened
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- Jun 26, 2007
- Messages
- 399
I thought some might like a brightness comparison for the stock NiteIze 1W drop-in.
To give you and idea of the stock performance right out of the box, the NiteIze drop-in with the IQ switch combo on HIGH is just the tiniest bit brighter than my C-LE is on MEDIUM. Most 1W Luxeons seem to hit right about this level, unless they are very heavily overdriven, so I think the NiteIze driver is doing a pretty good job for a drop-in, and when I make the switch to the SSC U-Bin emitter, I expect the combo to beat the C-LE by a small margin, which will make it a very nice little light indeed.
So the stock Niteize LED does provide at least a useable level of light, but as I mentioned in a previous post, I plan to change the emitter anyway, but if you want to avoid this kind of custom work, you can try the IQ switch with one of the new Teralux or other higher output drop-in emitter upgrades, but getting one that will work with these higher performance drop-ins seems to be only 50/50 right now.
When it's working it's a pretty nice little unit, and the concern about power drain is silly because the original maglight twisty switch continues to function so you can just tighten the head to lock out the light against accedental turn on and to disable the locator beacon function.
Of course the whole reason that some want to use the IQ switch in the first place is because they have disabled the head switch with a small washer under the drop-in to get better heatsinking, but even in this situation I don't think the locator flash will matter much if you are using NiMH because even with the new low self discharge cells, I find the batteries need to be charged every month or two in typical use, and if you loose a single day due to the tailcap locator flash, who cares?
Personally I am just going to upgrade my stock 1W Niteize drop-in to a better emitter, because it seems to run without overheating, and I don't want to loose focus ability by doing the washer trick.
So I think the IQ switch is well worth the time and money, but you will want to check the IQ swich you recieve to make sure it's working well with the drop-in you plan to use it with, by momentarily restoring the original maglight tail cap and comparing brightness on high.
To give you and idea of the stock performance right out of the box, the NiteIze drop-in with the IQ switch combo on HIGH is just the tiniest bit brighter than my C-LE is on MEDIUM. Most 1W Luxeons seem to hit right about this level, unless they are very heavily overdriven, so I think the NiteIze driver is doing a pretty good job for a drop-in, and when I make the switch to the SSC U-Bin emitter, I expect the combo to beat the C-LE by a small margin, which will make it a very nice little light indeed.
So the stock Niteize LED does provide at least a useable level of light, but as I mentioned in a previous post, I plan to change the emitter anyway, but if you want to avoid this kind of custom work, you can try the IQ switch with one of the new Teralux or other higher output drop-in emitter upgrades, but getting one that will work with these higher performance drop-ins seems to be only 50/50 right now.
When it's working it's a pretty nice little unit, and the concern about power drain is silly because the original maglight twisty switch continues to function so you can just tighten the head to lock out the light against accedental turn on and to disable the locator beacon function.
Of course the whole reason that some want to use the IQ switch in the first place is because they have disabled the head switch with a small washer under the drop-in to get better heatsinking, but even in this situation I don't think the locator flash will matter much if you are using NiMH because even with the new low self discharge cells, I find the batteries need to be charged every month or two in typical use, and if you loose a single day due to the tailcap locator flash, who cares?
Personally I am just going to upgrade my stock 1W Niteize drop-in to a better emitter, because it seems to run without overheating, and I don't want to loose focus ability by doing the washer trick.
So I think the IQ switch is well worth the time and money, but you will want to check the IQ swich you recieve to make sure it's working well with the drop-in you plan to use it with, by momentarily restoring the original maglight tail cap and comparing brightness on high.
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Snow
Enlightened
The combo pack with switch and 1W LED dropin is one sale for $8.99 at Target, so I picked one up tonight. My MiniMag is at school, so I won't be able to test it until tomorrow, but I'll be interested to see how well I like it after reading the criticisms in this thread.
PlayboyJoeShmoe
Flashaholic
Are you certain that $8.99 gets you a 1W and an IQ switch?
Because I think it gets you a 3LED and stupid switch.
It was $20 for the 1W and IQ at the Target I was at.
Because I think it gets you a 3LED and stupid switch.
It was $20 for the 1W and IQ at the Target I was at.
